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Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel advice, tips, info and summaries for: East Africa - Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania, Uganda and Zambia (East enough? - Zimbabwe in Southern Africa section).

You can also see West, North and Southern Africa in other sections.

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   East Africa

» Kenya

• Intro: The entry or exit point for most overland trips in Africa and a favourite package safari destination - in many ways Kenya is East Africa. Even though a look at the map may reveal that many of the more evocative place names associated with the region lie in neighboring countries - there is no doubt that Kenya with its compact tourist circuit, cheaper than Tanzania safaris and fine facilities should not be over looked as they so often are (amidst concerns over crime). With 'back in time' trips to lake Turkana in the north, amazing beaches/islands on the east (inc. the wonderful Lamu islands) and fine national parks / lakes all over the country - it's worth spending some time. Ignore anybody who tells you Kenya is too touristy - you simply need a little courage and to make the effort. Off the beaten track (if you have time) Kenya is amazing and quite safe.

  • Highlights: Samburu NP in the north is highly rated since there is a good chance of see the 'big three' away from the plains and the road trip from the south takes in a diverse range of landscapes from lowlands, beautiful white highlands and stunning Mount Kenya. Some prefer the heavily touristed Kenyan extension to Tanzania's Serengeti, the Maasai Mara - which are an amazing example of iconic African plains and Africa's best value safari . Best advice if you have the money is to visit a few national parks. Lamu is so relaxed it's almost falling over, a great add on even if you are going to Zanzibar. A trip to lake Turkana in the far north (as seen in 'The Constant Gardener') is worth the money and Lake Nakuru with it's millions of flamingos really makes a typical east African site.

  • Lowlights: Nairobi, touristy package beach resorts, high rate of crime, poverty, clashing cultures, need for private transport when making national park trips and danger of mugging in the capital and some beach areas.

• Visa strategy: Many nationalities need a visa, available for about US$50 at the airport or border - make sure you have USD or Euro (which is now accepted widely) cash.

• Typical tourist trail: Three to seven day safari circuit taking in Maasai Mara, Lake Nakuru, Mount Kenya and Samburu, then on to the coast for a few days.

• Climbing: With your own kit Mount Kenya can be climbed independently (just hire a local guide). Even with an organized trip, a climb works out much cheaper than Kilimanjaro (although still not 'cheap'), but beware unlike Kilimanjaro, this is quite a technical mountain with most casual climbers not getting right to the jagged top.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally quite hot as you would expect with the equator running right through the country. Beware both Nairobi and the Maasai Mara are at altitude and can get cold during night. Be sure to pack a good fleece and get a good sleeping bag from your tour company.

• Costs: About US$20-30 per day, excluding the cost of any safari or tour you take.

• Money: ATMs in big cities, travellers cheques can be difficult to cash (take original receipts), as you would expect green backed $$cash is easiest to use and carry, although least recommended due to crime risk associated with carrying cash.

• Getting around: The roads are served by a chaotic array of Kenya's gift to the world - matatus (which have become a lot safer in the past few years with strict regulations bringing road traffic accident deaths down by 70% in 6 months!), they make short trips easy and having compulsory seat belts and maximum occupancy means adrenaline junkies will have to go somewhere else. Good buses run long and international routes. Trains are subject to tourist pricing and therefore the popular Nairobi to Mombassa route is over priced.

• Dangers: It's difficult to overstate the risk of being mugged, pick pocketed or conned in Nairobi especially if your guard is not right up (i.e. you just arrived and did not take a taxi into town). The coast is also a major target, other than that you will get the normal sticky fingers around bus stations in other parts of the country, but with common sense and luck you are pretty safe.

• What to buy: Typical curio

• Guide book: Lonely Planet or Bradt

• Media: Newsweek/Time plus English language newspapers available in big cities.

• People vibe: 

  • Locals: Generally very nice, although on the coast they can be a good deal of hassle.

  • Other travellers: Fine (not too many of them).

• Tourist factor: 7/10

• Accommodation: Good range to be found in most towns

  • Average cost: Under US$10 for a basic room US$20 for a much nicer one. International standard tourist resorts found on the coastal beaches and in game parks will be well out of a backpackers price range.

  • Hot water: In budget accommodation, hard to get on the coast. However, you might be surprised to have a hot shower in the middle of a game park, where even on cheap tours you are very well looked after.

• Communications: Internet great in Nairobi and okay in most other developed parts, but can be slow.

• Food: Excellent food on tours, good food in towns and great Indian food in larger cities.

  • Vegetarians: Generally Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: 7.5/10

  • Women alone: Generally fine, keep a guard up.

• Rating: 7/10 - fall foul to Nairobi and this rating tumbles, but don't get too worried, myself and most others survive it just fine and with that said probably halved the chance of having a theft problem in Africa until reaching the major South African cities.

Miss at your peril: Kenya or Tanzania Safari and Islands - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

» Malawi

• Intro: Malawi lacks the high international profile enjoyed by many of the regions other countries, but it holds a reputation of almost legendary status among travellers. A reputation, that for many whom visit and want to do more than simply relax by the lake and/or don't have the time or equipment to trek is hard to substantiate. Yet in many respects Malawi could be seen as a perfect backpacking destination - it's cheap, compact, hassle-free and in most parts very beautiful. Known as the 'warm heart of Africa' (unfortunately since the end of dictatorship, a title that appears to be slipping), Malawi is best known for it's beautiful lake, bays and beaches. It's also one of the poorest countries in Africa which adds up to some very cheap travelling, however also translates to some more expensive prices (such as imported goods) than the countries GNP would indicate. On the whole Malawi is cheap, but you can end up feeling that those items which are incredibly low in price (crafts aside) are of equally low quality. In addition when staying in one of the many lake resorts, good quality accommodation (often foreign owned) and food soon adds up. In short visiting Malawi with high expectations will no doubt lead to disappointment. Public transport can be hellish and incredibly slow plus some areas of the country are really very difficult to get to, normally requiring hiking without any support facilities. Nonetheless, if you just want to unwind from Africa, learn to dive, spend a few days on a boat or simply hang out in some great accommodation lakeside then it would be hard to be disappointed.

  • Highlights: The lake of course; snorkeling, learning to dive or simply chilling out in resorts like Nkhata Bay or Cape Maclear. Good and very cheap trekking in Mulanje, Nyika NP and Vwaza marsh reserve.

  • Lowlights: Transportation, poverty, the traveller resort nature of places like Nkhata and Candy Bay.

• Visa strategy: A visa is required by all except holders of a Commonwealth, EU, USA and South African passport, and should be obtained in advance.

• Typical tourist trail: From Tanzania to Nkhata Bay, boat or bus to Monkey Bay and then leaving the country either via Blantyre or Lilongwe

• Costs: Malawi is a very cheap country and you could manage on US$10-20 per day. However, a day or two in Lilongwe and the many temptations at lakeside resorts make doubling this a more reasonable figure.

• Money: Outside of Lilongwe and Blantyre there are no ATMs. Travellers cheques change in most major cities (although these are so small you would not even think they would have a bank). Banks seem to close at 1300. Green backs will always change, so will Rands. There's a change place in Nkhata Bay, but maybe not at Monkey Bay.

• What to buy: Crafts and curio are cheaper and possibly better quality here than anywhere else in Africa.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet always popular. Bradt another option.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Generally very warm, friendly and often so poor your heart strings are tugged.

  • Other travellers: Standard EU, Oz and US travellers. Many peace corp. or volunteer workers and overland truckers in places such as Candy Bay.

• Tourist factor: Within resorts you will find the highest concentration of travellers, outside Egypt, South Africa, Zanzibar and Vic Falls in Africa, but in no way too many. Very easy to get away from it all.

• Accommodation: Outside of resorts rooms are extremely cheap, but very basic. Rooms in nice resort hostels are almost on par with South Africa, so seem expensive by Malawian standards, but dorms and cheaper options are always available.

• Communications: Only really in Lilongwe and Blantyre.

• Food: Very limited choice in many places apart from lake resorts where you can have pretty much what every you want.

  • Vegetarians: Normally always able to find an option

  • What not to try: Right up there as one of the biggest surprises whilst travelling was fried mice being sold through the window of a bus. Still it's meat and who are we to comment without trying!

• Hassle and annoyance factor: 6/10

  • Women alone: Not really a problem, but it's worth being on your guard

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Shake Shake, a kind of maze beer bought in cartons has to be tried, preferably before you (if into it) have a smoke. Malawian gold is probably some of the best pot in the world and notably strong. You'll be offered it at any of the resorts around lake Malawi at very low prices. It's normally safe to buy with commonsense (even in one of the world's poorest countries it's still illegal) and goes a long way to explain why many travellers rate Malawi so highly and spend so long in such a small country.

• Rating: 6.5/10

» Tanzania

• Money: ATMs only in major or tourist towns (including Stone town on Zanzibar). Barclays bank now has several branches in Tanzania: Arusha, Dar es salaam, and their newest one which just opened on Zanzibar. All of these have ATMs which accept most international cards. Apparently Barclays on Zanzibar is testing an ATM which dispenses USD as well as t-shillings - but no confirmation on this yet. Normally never a problem to change USD travellers cheques.

• Costs: Budget on about US$30 to $35 a day on the beaten track. A visit to Zanzibar will raise this cost slightly and activities will completely wipe it out. See above for what to expect to pay out for a Northern circuit safari and/or Kilimanjaro climb, to name a few popular options.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Normally quite friendly especially in more rural areas. Those in Zanzibar were particularly nice, open and a pleasure to talk to

  • Other travellers: Wide range of tourists, many fly-in rather than long-term or 'travellers'.

• Tourist factor: From 8/10 to 2/10

• Accommodation: Accommodation is never normally a problem almost anywhere and don't be afraid to look past your guidebook listings

  • Average cost: For a basic double room, pay about US$10-15 and twice this on Zanzibar

• Communications: Internet cafes are scattered all over Tanzania and certainly Arusha. Internet can be slow, but is often pretty good.

• Media:

  • Books: Second hand books for sale in Zanzibar Town and there is an excellent book shop with guidebooks in Dar es Salaam next to Steers (South African hamburger chain) restaurant

• Food: Food on tours is usually great, as is that on the coast. The food market in Zanzibar Town every night is perhaps one of the best eating experiences in the world if you like seafood. Food becomes more basic off the beaten track.

  • Vegetarians: Fine, great seafood on Zanzibar

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Safari touts are a factor in Arusha and Moshi and recommended to be avoided. Walking around major towns especially Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar town, you seem to get approached by a large number of people simply wanting to chat or help you out. These are best avoided as can sometimes lead to a nasty situation or scam.

  • Women alone: Tanzania does have a large Muslim population, so consideration is needed, but on the whole a woman travelling alone should be fine

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Aside from cheap plentiful beer, grass - just like in most of Africa - can normally always be found, especially on Zanzibar Island.

• Rating: 7.5/10

Miss at your peril: Kenya or Tanzania Safari and Islands - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

» Uganda

• Intro: 'Hey Muzungu where you go?!' You'll hear comments like that all over Africa (Muzungu, if you don't know is an expression for a white individual in Africa), but none so often as in the compact, friendly and tropical country of Uganda. Dubbed by Churchill and all tourist literature since as the 'pearl of Africa', Uganda is very much Africa (East), yet feels slightly different than neighbouring nations. For one it appears tropical and fertile in a subcontinent plagued by drought, as the savannah meets the western rainforests. Everywhere something grows and for the most part you might imagine Tarzan to come swinging out of the trees!

Uganda's great benefit as a destination is its compact travel circuit and lush landscapes. Those that expect big game viewing on par with Kenya, Tanzania or even Zambia will be very much disappointed. However the draw card in Uganda are monkeys and apes, which can be viewed with little effort (although with varying price tags ranging up to spectacular for the mountain gorillas that Uganda is famous for).

A current favourite with volunteers and NGO projects. Uganda - although yet to completely recover from the international image formed by the well known reigns of terror of Idi Amin and Milton Obote - is in fact one of the safer countries in the region and although this is still Africa and you need to always expect problems, it is easy to be disarmed by the real treat of the friendliness of ordinary Ugandans most of whom are happy to talk to you. Furthermore widespread English means fascinating windows into African life can be gained from local newspapers or striking up conversations with total strangers on buses, most of whom although a little hard to understand are happy to talk to you.

Unfortunately where the country has so much going for it as a destination, its faults for many travellers lie in costs. Being one of Africa's fastest growing economy's has certainly pushed up prices and equally the price of fuel (which is imported on terrible roads through Kenya and despite large oil discoveries in the country) remains more expensive than in most of the western world). However the main cause of significant [travel] expense is the proliferation - as in neighboring countries - of foreigner pricing. Quite simply almost every notable attraction (the point of the source of the Nile for example) has an official price attached to it that is different for a foreigner than a local. Of which the foreigner price is often above a comparative level to that of the developed world and at a level where anyone on a reasonable budget would struggle to accommodate. Gorilla trekking permits aside (which are the most costly and debatably understandably so), national park fees are actually slightly less than Kenya or Tanzania, (however in fairness Uganda's national parks do not hold a candle to those of Kenya's and Tanzania's and should thus be cheaper). However national park entry and access is still expensive and lastly almost everything that is worth seeing has a 10 to 20 fold price increase for foreigners over Ugandans - not all justifiably so. This 'problem/issue' is not new or uncommon to the region and not without merits in cases, nevertheless its extension in Uganda to almost all attractions and the widespread belief that all whites are so rich the extra cost is a drop in the ocean, means those on really tight budgets should be warned.

• Highlights: Chimpanzees and Mountain Gorillas. Murchison Falls. White water rafting on the Victoria Nile. Ugandans and trying to understand the country and its people/history.

• Lowlights: The associated price tags of some of the above. Transportation (although not notably bad for the region, is still hard work), overland buses and compound (pronominally white faces and very unAfrican) nature of many of the popular accommodation spots.

• Visa strategy: A visa is available on entry for around US$50. Most border points (inc. the airport) take Euro, USD or GBP. A visa is a lose term, as all you normally get is a small entry stamp in your passport. If you are a resident of a strange or developing country it is worth checking that you can get a visa on entry; nationals of USA, UK, Canada, Australia, NZ and the EU need not worry. Technically you should have your yellow fever vaccination certificate, but experiences (first and third hand) suggest this is never requested/checked (certainly not at the airport).

• Getting around: Getting around is relatively easy, but fraught with all the typical slowness and discomfort of African travel.

  • Road: Although fuel costs are notably very expensive, local transport is still good value, but understandably very crowded. Buses cover all main routes. Many routes have buses with fixed-ish departures and every main route is served by an endless stream of white mini-buses that race along, stopping seemingly every 800 meters and are ramped full of passengers, chickens and luggage. However such transport can not get you into or around most national parks or many other wildlife points of interest, where you will need to get on a tour or hire something privately. The price for which can be far from reasonable especially if you are unable to share costs. Motorbike and bicycle taxis are common and useful for shorter distances.

  • Water: Boats connect Port Bell, Kansenyi and Masaka to the Ssese Islands in Lake Victoria.

• Typical tourist trail: From Kenya to Jinga and Kampala. From Kampala most visitors will head north to take in the Murchison Falls NP and to Jinga to raft the Nile and see the source. Many tours and some independent travellers also take in Queen Elizabeth NP. Those with more time might head for one of the Ssese Islands or head to Lake Bunyonyi (both of which have traveller focused accommodation options). Those lucky enough to be able to trek gorillas will of course head to the Bwindi National Park or Rwanda.

• Costs: A very clear division must be made between someone just visiting Uganda and someone visiting and being an active tourist, that is participating in popular tourist activities. On one side simply visiting major towns and cities, costs are slightly above that of Kenya or Tanzania, but only slightly, with US$15-25/per day being quite reasonable. However those hitting the attractions and seeing Murchison Falls (US$100+/day), rafting the Nile US$120+/per day, etc. and generally being at the mercy of duel foreigner pricing and high transport costs to national parks would need a budget many times greater than US$15-25/day depending on what they did and how long they spent.

• Money: There are plenty of ATMs in Uganda's main cities. Not all work on international networks, but many do and getting money this way is the easiest method. There are ATMs at the airport, but they can't be counted on. No ATMs issue USD which are the pricing currency of national park entry fees and most tours and activities; converting these USD prices to UGX (Ugandan Shillings) will of course be at a less favourable rate - so having a good chunk of USD cash is useful. In Kampala there are many excellent exchange places that will change almost all world major currencies from CHF to AUD at reasonable rates, but outside Kampala and in non-business hours you might struggle to find a change place or ATM. As is normal nowadays, rates for travellers cheques are poor.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet is the most popular choice, despite Uganda being only a poorly covered section in the LP East Africa, until LP can be bothered to produce a dedicated edition it is best avoided unless you require the coverage on Kenya, Tanzania, et al. On the other hand Bradt provide the best option (but in no means perfects) with a dedicated Uganda only guide.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: How you will find Ugandas will very much depend on how far you get of the tourist trail and how much effort you make. Striking up conversations on buses is easy and generally Ugandas are welcoming. You might get a little hassle off kids and street sellers who see a Muzungu as an attraction or millionaire, but it is all fairly harmless.

  • Other travellers: Actual independent travelers are pretty rare in Uganda, with the vast, vast majority of those you might come across having some other reason why they are in the country, which will be 9/10 times a volunteering or similar project. Being a compact circuit you do come across a few overland trucks and tours. Most travellers are aged between 20-30 and are from Canada/USA and Western Europe with an increasing amount of Israelis.

• Tourist factor: Uganda is far from 'off the beaten track in places' (7/10) although as with anywhere in Africa it is VERY easy to escape the crowds.

• Accommodation: In all major backpacker stops such as Jinga, Kampala, Murchison Falls, the Ssese Islands or Lake Bunyonyi exists one or many backpacker places (or compound would be a better description), these are not particularly good value or worthwhile, however they do offer a good information point where you can arrange tours, get questions answered, stay safely in a dorm and meet other travellers (Red Chili's would be a good example and the better option in Kampala). Sometimes an overland truck can be in town and you would rather wish you were anywhere else and equally after a while you might question why you came to Uganda to sit around drinking beer behind a high compound wall surrounded by white faces. Conversely outside of tourist areas there are some great places to stay and some terrible ones. Uganda is full of foreign owned accommodation which is always a great standard, but rarely a bargain. Almost all rooms have mosquito nets, but good to have your own treated one. Power cuts are frequent and an average cost for a double would be US$10-20. For the most part forget hot water.

• Media: There is a wide selection of local English language newspapers and in Kampala international newspapers and international news magazines. Many of the backpacker pads have DSTV.

• Communications: For what it is worth internet is fairly widespread and it is not too difficult to locate an internet connection. However connection speeds are slow and even in major cities you will be hard pressed to find anything near the sort of connection speed you need to comfortably use the internet.

• Food and drink: This is the land of matoke which is an incredibly bland banana dish (made from cooked and mashed plantains) which is usually eaten with bland meat or a groundnut sauce. Chicken, goat and sometimes fish are common and so are rice and potatoes (always called Irish potatoes). Any large town has a westernised restaurant and backpacker joints normally serve very familiar food. Local beers are cheap and surprisingly strong with the 'Nile' brand leading the pack followed by the milder 'Club'.

  • Vegetarians: Normally always able to find an option, although many menus are dependent on chicken, goat or fish. The more rural you go the more you can/will struggle and end up sticking to 'side dishes'.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: 4/10

  • Women alone: Not really a problem, but it's worth being on your guard

• Rating: 6.5/10

» Zambia

• Visa strategy: Visas are not required by most Commonwealth countries, except for countries that don't have reciprocal agreements (most developed countries), these are notably: UK, Australia, Canada, NZ. Most others do need a visa which is best obtained on the border or an a nearby embassy. Fees vary from about US$40 to US$100. It is possible to get a free visa, if you have prior arrangements for accommodations and activities in Zambia. This must be arranged at least a week in advance, so your details will be on the border in time for your arrival. The normal methods for doing this are by arranging over the internet with Fawlty Towers in Livingstone (or another hostel - see guidebook for addresses) or by arranging a South Luangwa safari in Lilongwe. This is of course well worth doing, but don't leave it until the last minute.

• Dangers: Like most other big African cities, Lusaka has a reputation for muggings at night

• Costs: US$20-30 a day not including activities in Vic Falls or any safari

• Money: ATMs in Lusaka and Livingstone - a Visa Plus over Cirrus card is useful. Barclays bank offers fee free cash advances. Well worth stocking up on USD for Zimbabwe in Lusaka

• Getting around: Good buses connecting major points in the country. Trains, apart from the Dar es Salaam connection are perhaps not preferable.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet

• People vibe: 

  • Locals: Among the most friendly and best English speaking on the continent

  • Other travellers: Normal crowd, a number of Peace Corp. volunteers taking breaks from work elsewhere.

• Tourist factor: Considering the compact circuit taken by most 7/10, outside this 2/10

• Accommodation: There is little in the way of budget accommodation in most of the country. There are now a few hostels in Lusaka, none that are very good, however worth booking in advance if arriving late. Livingstone on the other hand has many great choices, the best being Fawlty Towers.

  • Average cost: US$30 - US$30, much less for dorm beds when available or in government resthouses

• Communications: Internet okay in both Livingstone and Lusaka

• Media:

  • Books: International papers in Lusaka

  • TV: DSTV in most Livingstone hostels Lusaka is a good place to catch a movie

• Food: Great food in Livingstone, average westernised fare in Lusaka and basic elsewhere

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None really

  • Women alone: Not normally a big problem

• Rating: Considering you get half of Victoria Falls in Zambia and Livingstone is a great place 6/10, elsewhere 4/10

East & Southern Africa: The Backpacker's Manual - Philip Briggs

Buy/view: in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

Highly Recommended

Although sometime, out dated all of Philip Briggs guide's come recommended.

"The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.

Paul Fix

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