Central America
 

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Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel country advice, tips, info and summaries for: Central America - Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala and Nicaragua.

    Central America

» Belize

• Intro: Relatively small, nestled in between México and Guatemala, Belize is the only English speaking Latin American country. It is fairly developed in relation to it's neighbours, but in many places has a very backwater feel to it. Most of the main attractions are out at sea in the form of hundreds of cayes, many with beautiful beaches and the 184-mile long (longest in the Northern hemisphere) barrier reef, complete with whale sharks, sting rays, multi-coloured fish and clear blue water. On the whole the mainland is ignored, with the main focus of activities away from the beaches, being wildlife viewing or Mayan temples that are less grander than might be found in neighbouring nations. That does not mean the main-land is totally ignored. San Ignacio is a hive of travellers (although this does have something to do with it's position on route to Tikal) and a fantastic place. Elsewhere inland towns are less frequently visited and provide a great opportunity to get a little away from the Central American crowds and chill a little. The down-side however is that costs are much higher here than elsewhere in the region and considering this most travellers fleet through or stay less than a week. The whole Caribbean atmosphere of the place, including the 'Bob Marley' variety of English spoken and (on the whole) friendly people makes Belize a great place when you are there - less so when you are counting the cost for excursions. Your time on the cayes will come at a price.

  • Highlights: The cayes, diving/snorkelling the reef - desert islands, sharks and sting rays plus San Ignacio (inc. mountain pine ridge, Xunantunich and cave tours).

  • Lowlights: San Pedro and Ambergris Caye, Belize City, prices and especially those of excursions. Many towns like Belmopan (the capital), pleasant as they are, are non-events.

• Visa strategy: US, Canadian, Australian, and EU passport holders do not need a visa.

• Typical tourist trail: From México to Guatemala (or visa-versa) via Belize City to Caye Caulker to San Ignacio

• Accommodation: Cheap accommodation is never that cheap and normally of a low standard

  • Hot water: Don't expect hot water unless you are paying extra for a private bathroom

  • Average cost: Between US$20 and US$50 depending on where you are. A little less if off the beaten track.

• Language: If English is not your first language then you may find the Belizean pronunciation of it hard to understand. Spanish is widely used around border areas.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot and sticky or hot and windy or hot and wet. Highland areas are beautifully cool

• Media:

  • Books: Some second hand book stalls, nothing too stimulating. Newsweek and Time can be found in Belize City

  • TV: Most bars and more expensive hotels will have American cable TV

• Food: Great food, although the cost of eating out adds up. It is easy to eat out of fairly well stock supermarkets to keep costs down

  • Vegetarians: Fine, lots of fish if that is okay

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None

  • Women alone: Women will get some attention, even in pairs, but on the whole harmless

• Tourist factor: 8/10

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Belize is pretty famous for it's herb and it is widely available. Seeing as most travellers hit the Cayes, it is here where you are most likely to be offered it. Given that (for example) Caye Caulker is so small with a police station right in the middle, risks seem high especially if buying off the street. Despite the numbers of Rastas, pot is illegal and can land you in the sort of trouble that you would look to avoid.

• Rating: 6.5/10

» Costa Rica

• Visa strategy: Almost no one needs a visa, 90 days for most developed nations apart from Oz and NZ whom along with many other countries only get 30 days.

• Typical tourist trail: With many points of interest there is no trail as such, but most independent travellers take in San Jose, Jaco, Montezuma, Fortuna, Monteverde and maybe the Caribbean coast.

• Getting around: Public transport is easy to use and a good standard. In more remote areas transport is normally limited to a few buses a day, making connections hard to meet. Many wealthier visitors hire 4x4 jeeps for there trip. This is a fantastic option, but just out of the price range of most budget travellers (US$50-100 per day) - still they make hitching easy!

• What to take: If you have one a student card can be useful and save you a little bit of money.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet (see details - UK or USA) good, but widely used. Footprint (see details/buy with Amazon - UK or USA) or Rough Guide (see details - UK or USA) perhaps better. Many travellers use a multi-country guide for the region. For a full list of regional guides please see here.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Fine, but quite varied from coast to coast

  • Other travellers: Huge variety, Costa Rica draws tourists from all over the world, but mainly from America and Canada.

• Communications: Internet widely available and excellent value/quality in the capital.

• Language: English is widely spoken by those who work in the tourist trade and on the Caribbean coast.

• Media:

  • Books: Very good selection of first and second hand books in the capital and other major tourist haunts. Newsweek and Time are easy to find as are guidebooks

  • TV: Hostels and better hotels will have American cable TV, cinemas are numerous in big cities

• Food: Many restaurants to cater for visitors, the meal of the day (casado) is normally excellent value as are the cheaper restaurants (sodas) they are often found in. Be warned better restaurants seem to slap as much as 23% onto bills. At the other end of the scale commonly found bakeries and supermarkets make basic self-catering a perfect money saving option.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited, more on the Caribbean coast

  • Women alone: Generally fine

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Pot is easily found all over Costa Rica, but best on the Caribbean coast in small backpacker resorts such as Puerto Viejo (de Talamanca) where in hostels such as 'Rocking J's' it can be hard to leave if smoking daily.

• Rating: 6.5/10 - Costa Rica is perhaps worthy of a higher rating if you only have to travel from North America to get there. This might explain why it is often so highly rated.

» El Salvador

• Intro: It might be recent earthquakes or perhaps the memory of civil war that keeps so many away from El Salvador in such a well travelled region, but it is more likely the fact that the attractions of neighbouring countries - and the lack of anything truly comparable in El Salvador prevents most from even passing through. Those who do are normally pleased they did, but would agree that any 'sight' is low key and as nice and friendly as the people are, they are also so in neighbouring nations.

  • Highlights: (Interesting & nice but hardly a must sees) Suchitoto and Sonsonate. Lack of gringo crowds. Some great beaches.

  • Lowlights: USD economy, major cities and lack of anything really interesting or rural (country-side well cultivated)

• Visa strategy: No visa required for most (Latin America, North American, European inc. Israel). Notably Australian, NZ and Canadian citizens will have to buy a tourist card on the border/airport for $10 or a visa for $30 in advance.

• Typical tourist trail: Normally figures around coming from Guatemala and going to Copán (Honduras) via Suchitoto or transiting the country completely at it's length (this is normally done on an international bus.

• Dangers: San Salvador is not the safest city in the region and care should be taken at night especially in the area where budget hotels are

• Costs: US$20-40 per day

• Money: Since 2001 the national currency has been phased out and is now rarely seen. US$ is the new currency easily pulled from ATMs in major cities, but outside of them make sure you have cash to hand.

• Getting around: Old American school buses ply most routes. They are cheap, connections are easy and most roads are good (but not all)

• Guide book: Any regional guide. For a full list of guides and reading material, please see here.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: On the whole very nice, more so in areas less affected by the civil war

  • Other travellers: Few

• Tourist factor: 3/10

• Accommodation: Good hotels normally available, but at a price. In cities nice budget rooms are tough to find and basic ones will cost you between $15-$30. Outside of the cities you can find a nice room for about the same price.

  • Hot water: Only in nice hotels

  • Average cost: See above

• Communications: Internet and phone easy in major towns and the capital. These are a world apart from the country-side where internet cafés are only just starting to pop up.

• Media:

  • Books: Difficult unless in Spanish

  • TV: Cable TV in capital plus large cinemas

  • Web: For an excellent site on this less visited, less know country try: http://www.4elsalvador.com

• Food: Plentiful American fast food (in big cities), good eating on a budget is not too hard, but not that easy

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None

  • Women alone: No problem

• Rating: 5.5/10

» Honduras

• Reading: Set mainly in Honduras on/in The Mosquito Coast, the story is told through the eyes of Charlie Fox, a typical American boy. The story he tells us chronicles the "adventure" his family has when his father, Allie Fox takes them all to live in the Honduran jungle. This is a stunning book and a cracking read. The story is fantastic; a mixture of sarcastic humour, adventure and emotion. (Click image for more info and other reading recommendations).

• Dangers: Parts of Tegucigalpa can be bad for theft. Mosquitoes and sand flies can be an annoyance on the Caribbean coast. Walking off into the countryside around Copán is not advised.

• Costs: US$20-40 per day, a little more on the Bay Islands

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Fine

  • Other travellers: Budget travellers from all over the world: as always many northern Europeans and North Americans. Bay Islands have even more North Americans.

• Tourist factor: 7/10

• Accommodation: Wide range of accommodation. You can normally fine a nice room for US$15-20, not so nice rooms can be found for half of that price. Nice rooms at the cheaper end are difficult to find in big cities.

  • Hot water: Depends on quality of room

  • Average cost: US$15

• Communications: Internet easy and plentiful in major cities and Copán. On the Bay Islands internet is available, but is more expensive.

• Media:

  • Books: Basic English language book shops in Tegucigalpa and book exchanges on major islands

  • TV: Most good hotels have American cable TV and so do some of the cheaper ones

• Food: Fine, more expensive on Bay Islands. Major cities are over run with American fast food restaurants.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None really

  • Women alone: No real problem

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Alcohol is more pricey on the islands as other things are. Weed can of course be found on the Caribbean coast and larger islands.

• Rating: 6/10 (if you can dive or want to learn cheaply, you can increase this rating by a point or two)

» Guatemala

Miss at your peril: (despite the crowds) - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

• Intro: It's only a well travelled individual who would fail to be impressed by Guatemala. Guatemala has no shortage of visitors for this reason and most routes/sights are far removed from virgin ground, but in a country of this size with time and effort it is easy to find yourself a little space. Here's what makes Guatemala such a deservedly popular destination: major ruins (Tikal and others that can be reached with time and effort are marvels of the ancient world), beautiful colonial cities (Antigua is one of the world's most beautiful), two coast lines (both distinctly different, far from first class beaches, but nesting turtles and good value compensate), scenic volcanoes plus dramatic mountains (does make transport slow in places, but keeps the climate cool and hides real gems), lakes (both Lago Atitlán and Lago Izabal are again right up there on the global beauty scale) and people (the continuation of ancient traditions and costumes makes for a truly 'back-in-time' spectacle - plus some crazy festivals). There is loads more besides, including a fast network of tourist orientated transport that makes getting around a breeze if you want to use it. On the down-side, as previously mentioned (both here and in connection to the entire region), most routes are extremely well travelled by all types of tourists (both good and bad); in fact many businesses are owned by foreign nationals. In addition crime is an issue to be borne in mind. Nevertheless Guatemala is probably the best bargain north of Ecuador and is without a doubt the Nepal of the Americas.

• Dangers: Crime in Guatemala City, on the Caribbean coast and while walking around Antigua and Lago Atitlan is not a major issue, but one to consider. The foolhardy may fall foul.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Both Antigua and Lago Atitlan plus other highland areas are pleasantly cool. Lowland areas including Tikal are steamy and at certain times of the year are almost unbearably hot.

• Costs: Since 'tourist mini-buses' (good quality small private vehicles) provide easy and efficient transport in many places (at a price) the temptation is to take them rather than public buses which are about 10 times cheaper. Equally, fantastic eating options (and bars) in both Antigua and Panajachel provide another temptation. On the beaten track without discipline you can spend between around US$40-50 a day with ease. Eating out can become a major expense. However with discipline and/or in more rural areas this cost can be cut in half. Guatemala is great value.

• Money: The large majority of banks in Guatemala have ATMs, all will change USD cash to quetzals and most will change travellers cheques. Cash advances are much easier with Visa rather than MasterCard.

• What to buy: Guatemala, along with Nepal, Bali and Zimbabwe is one of the best places on earth to buy cheap local crafts and textiles. The choice is staggering and the prices fair, even before bargaining. Make sure you have at least a little spare room in your bag.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Varied. People throughout Guatemala vary from blacks who speak English on the Caribbean coast to many tribes with their own language. On the whole Guatemalans are kind and friendly.

  • Other travellers: Many North Americans, but also from the world over. Guatemala has long attracted alternative culture followers from North America in the same way India attracts the same type of people from Europe.

• Guide book: No guidebook reviewed was particularly brilliant. The Lonely Planet is most popular as always. Footprint and Rough Guide are other okay options. For those who read German, the best guide is undoubtedly: 'Reise Know-How Guatemala'. Reise guides are normally no more than German translations of the LP, but here on comparison you'll notice much greater detail and accuracy. It's also nearly twice as fat as the planet. For a full list of regional guides please click here.

• Tourist factor: 8/10. Guatemala is touristy, but it is easy if you have the time and inclination to leave most tourist behind by heading off on long bus rides into the mountains. Numerous foreign owned hotels and restaurants are one thing, but it is common to see permanent 'hippy-esque' western backpackers selling jewellery on street stalls. This foreign investment is perhaps inevitable and on the whole not a bad thing. Although one does wonder about the effect to nationals of this very poor country who start a restaurant or bar and then have to compete with flasher foreign investment. Still if there is a market for it... It is perhaps the selling of items on street stalls by foreign nationals - always items that could be produced and sold by Guatemalans themselves - that illustrates best the point trying to be made here. Every traveller can exercise his or her right to spend their money as they wish.

• Accommodation: Numerous guesthouses and hotels throughout the country to suit all budgets. Brazil style hostels are opening up in Antigua. Away from tourist hubs rooms become more basic and cheaper.

  • Hot water: Only in cooler regions and in better hotels.

  • Average cost: US$10-20 (costs do rise substantially during festivals)

• Communications: As Antigua is the hub of Central America, internet and international phone calls are both good value and good quality. Internet is available in most towns any traveller would set foot in.

• Language: Like elsewhere in the region, knowledge of Spanish is incredibly useful, but not essential. Guatemala represents the best opportunity in the region for you to learn with numerous good value schools.

• Media:

  • Books: Good book shops in both Panajachel and Antigua: good fiction, guidebooks and international magazines available.

  • TV: If into films come to Guatemala, apart from seeing them in the cheap cinemas that dot the country, in tourist centres many restaurants and cafes show films during the day and night. Several hotels and restaurants also have lounge cinemas showing a huge number of screenings per day for a small charge. In Antigua where most of these cinemas are, there are several bars that show live sporting events. Tennis, English/Spanish football and NBA is regularly shown. If following English football, here and throughout the region you can watch a full programme of highlights every Monday night.

• Food: Food is excellent and very western in style within tourist centres as many restaurants are owned by foreign nationals. Quality does come at a price, but options in say Antigua are vast. Off the beaten track food is more basic, but always a bargain. Less flashy non-foreign owned restaurants in places such as Panajachel and Antigua are the best value even if they don't come with a flashy name, menu and decor.

  • Vegetarians: Fine (more difficult off the beaten track)

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Very limited hassle. Some over charging on public buses, but easy to avoid by asking locals what the correct price is. Like everywhere else in the region, Spanish helps massively.

  • Women alone: Generally fine, but there have been some safety issues at Tikal, but authorities have now changed regulations in order to make the park safer. The same goes for the police escort now offered up Volcán Pacaya.

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: The current hippy hangout centre is San Pedro La Laguna, a small village (now a backpacker hub) opposite Panajachel on the other side of the lake. Marijuana is easily available, harder drugs are also around. It's also easy to find Mary Jane on the two coasts in backpacker popular resorts.

• Rating: 7.5/10

» México - see North America

» Nicaragua

• Visa strategy: No visa required by most developed country nationals

• Dangers: Less crime than Costa Rica and Honduras, but be sensible at night with your bag.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: As with the rest of the region be warned about travelling at the hottest time of year. It is still very possible, but heat is sometimes a little unbearable (especially at night) and AC rooms come at a price.

• Costs: US$20-30 per day

• Money: Corodoba can be taken from ATMs in Granada, Leon and Managua, but ATMs do need some hunting. USD cash changes easily and is worth taking. TCs can be changed in major cities and Amex cheques are by far the best. Most banks in Nicaragua don't have ATMs, these are found (normally only one/two in a town) in mini shopping centres or other modern complexes. If in doubt ask locals. In Nicaragua simply stock up on cash when you can.

• Getting around: Buses run around the country particularly on the Western side which is the good pan-American highway. Elsewhere roads are bad. Along the pan-American highway collectivos run at lightening speed. These are mini-buses that leave when full. Rates are fixed and good value.

• Guide book: Footprint or a regional guide, not necessary if on the beaten track. For a full list of regional guides please click here.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Normal Central American folk, friendlier perhaps than in Costa Rica, those on the Caribbean coast as per normal in this region are friendlier. Some say the most friendly people are those on Ometepe since there was no fighting during the civil war here.

  • Other travellers: Standard gringos, many on side trips from Costa Rica rather than those travelling the whole region.

• Tourist factor: Up to 8/10

• Accommodation: In large towns and on the tourist trail getting a room is never a problem and rooms can be found very cheaply, but basic.

  • Hot water: Pretty rare in budget hotels

  • Average cost: From US$5 for a very basic room, but bearable if in the cool season. To US$10-15 for an okay room to US$30 for a nice one. AC will cost more still.

• Communications: Internet plentiful in major cities

• Media:

  • Books: None really

  • TV: Hotels aimed at backpackers often have cable TV in the reception

• Food: Food is quite basic and limited in most places apart from those on the tourist trail where in many cases backpackers are well catered for. Prices are a little high by world standards, but a bargain if coming from Costa Rica.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None really, few hotel touts in some towns.

  • Women alone: Generally fine

• Rating: 5.5/10

Please find Mexico info on North America page. Info on Panama is required if anyone wants to help out.

The best source of planning information is First-time Latin America, which is excellent - for a guidebook you can't fault the following:

For a full list of planning guides, recommended guide books and reading material, please click here.

If you have food in the fridge, clothes on your back, a roof overhead and a place to sleep you are richer than 75% of this world. If you have money in the bank and spare change somewhere, you are among the top 8% of the world's wealthy. Oh, and if you can read this you are more blessed than more than two billion people in the world who cannot read.

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