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|
 What
follows are only basic snap shot summaries. If you
have decided these are some of the countries you want to visit and need more
planning information then you are strongly recommended to complement what you
find here with a planning guide. Trust us it
will make life much easier. If you are set on going and need a guidebook or
reading material please see a list of recommended guides/books
here (go on have a look!).
If you want to read fiction, you are in luck as some of the world's best
writers originate in South America. All
guides/books can be viewed in more detail. |
 South
America
» Bolivia
|
Diversity in the terms of - to name only a few examples - history (Potosi), amazing scenery of a beautiful altiplano plus
the worlds highest capital city, reasonable trekking opportunities and a
hugely accessible (cheapest in South America (not as accessible as in
Central America)) jungle. Bolivia is also the most indigenous country on the
continent, with more than 50% of the population maintaining traditional
values and beliefs. This Tibet of the Americas is as popular as the Asian original.
On the downside it's worth noting that the countries road
system is on the whole terrible, due in part to the topography and in
part to lack of maintenance. Making long trips can be somewhat unpleasant;
there is no established budget airline network, so to avoid such journeys
and fly, can become quite pricey. Worth a month of your
time and a few Spanish lessons, but don't expect to have anything to yourself,
but the remotest jungle.
-
Highlights: Salt flats and altiplano, Inca Trails (there are several), a mountain
bike trip down the world's most dangerous road, Potosi and swimming with river
dolphins in the Amazon
-
Lowlights: Lots of tourists, limited sights on
established routes. Poverty very notable and so are mosquitoes/heat/humidity in jungle areas. The countries road system is on the whole terrible, due in part to the topography and in part to lack of maintenance. Making long trips can be somewhat unpleasant; there is no established budget airline network, so to avoid such journeys and fly, can become quite pricey.
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Visa strategy: Free visa on
border or at the airport for most nationalities. Other
nationalities such as South Africans will have to pay (almost US$50).
Regulations seem to change frequently, but our understanding is currently
citizens of Japan and most EU countries can stay 90 days
without paying for a visa; citizens of Canada, Australia and New
Zealand can stay 30 days without paying for a visa. USA Citizens now do require a visa, it's a 100 bucks, takes 24hours to issue and is valid for 5 years (you can use it up to 3 times per year, 90days max) - more information here. [thanks Victor for your update]. Most other nationalities
require a visa in advance - usually issued for a 30-day stay.
See full list.
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Costs: Cheapest nation within South America, US$20-30 or even less a day. Excellent value if you are prepared to live, eat and travel as locals do. However, much more
if you want to do a jungle trip, trip across the altiplano or other such activities.
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What to take: Some warm clothes and hat, cool covering clothes and insect repellent
for jungle. Some periods of the year can be quite wet and a waterproof jacket can be useful during these times.
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People vibe:
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Locals: Very nice and laid back, Spanish easy to understand
-
Other travellers: Typical Gringos, many have high expectations of Bolivia
and come to spend large amounts of time, hearing it is the cheapest of South
American countries.
Notably, many Israelis - it's a circus in La Paz during Pass Over.
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Tourist factor: 7/10
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Accommodation: Cheap, sometimes basic and cold (spend money on better warmer
accommodation if need be)
|
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: The higher plains of Bolivia get pretty cold at night, but never as cold
as some make it out, unless in winter (June/July). Visiting jungle areas during or
just after the wet season is not pleasant. Lying in the southern hemisphere;
winter runs from May to October and summer from November to April. Basically
it's generally wet in the summer and dry during the winter.
The tourist
season is something like late June to early September, which has a good
climate and is Bolivia's major fiesta season. This does however make for a
very crowded time with overseas visitors and lots of South Americans travelling.
As mentioned, highlands
and the altiplano can become very cold in the winter and wet in the summer.
However the wet
summer months (northern hemisphere winter) are not a serious barrier to travel
and additionally there is far too much scare mongering regarding the winter's freezing
lows.
Yes it can get very cold with the higher points of the altiplano
dropping as low as -15C, and in most seasons below zero is not uncommon,
but these are nightly temperatures when you will be tucked up in a
sleeping bag (rent no problem) with loads of blankets available and not
outside in a tent. Remember these high altiplano points are where you transit from Chile to Potosi/Uyuni, not where you travel day-to-day (which are lower areas such as Potosi, Sucre, La Paz or Cochabamba). During the day it is most likely you will
be in a jeep as at such attitude any physical effort is very toiling. It
won't be t-shirt weather, but a good fleece (or two) is enough. It's
ridiculous to pack arctic clothing for only a few days stay and limited
exposure to such a climate. If anything good thermal underwear is most
useful due to it's multi purpose applications.
Conversely, on the tropical lowlands, summer is near miserable with mud, steamy heat, bugs and relentless downpours,
making travel very difficult if you are anywhere off the beaten track.
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Typical tourist trail: Lake Titicaca to La Paz, to the jungle or Coroico,
to Copacabana to Sucre to Potosi to Uyuni to Chile (or reverse if coming from Chile, not Peru/La Paz)
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Dangers: Some violent crime, take care at night and during civil unrest
(stay well away from demonstrations) - road blocks and unrest around Easter
time common. Watch petty thieves in markets and bus stations which normally involves a distraction like something being dropped or spilt on you. On the whole these are all minor issues and it is a fairly safe country on regional standards.
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Money: In larger cities ATMs. For cash, US dollars are of course the
foreign currency of choice throughout Bolivia, but currencies of
neighbouring countries can be exchanged in border areas. All casas de cambio
change cash US dollars and some also change traveller's checks. If you can't
find a cambio, try travel agencies, jewellery or appliance stores and
pharmacies. Credit cards may be used in larger cities, but not elsewhere -
best bet stick to using ATMs in major centres.
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Getting around: Most roads okay with frequent buses, some roads (especially
lowland roads in wet season) are awful. Trains get very cold at night and are
considered worse than buses; certainly slower. Worth flying to jungle
areas and if feeling a little travel worn. As mentioned in in the lowlights making long trips can be somewhat unpleasant, roads in the cities are alright, and the stretch just south of La Paz is OK, but most other rural roads are terrible. There is no established budget airline network, so to avoid such journeys and fly, can become quite pricey. Aerosur and Lloyd Boliviano, the two national carriers, are expensive compared to buses, but not as expensive as this seems to imply. Uyuni to La Paz approx US$120, and this will save most of a day on a bus.
|
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Health: Be aware of food poisoning. Take it very easy and be careful
at high altitudes - it is common for a traveller to hit 5000 meters
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Guide book: Footprint. For a full list of regional
guides please click here.
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Communications: Internet no problem, but more expensive in jungle areas
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Media:
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Food: Some good, cheap food
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Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited
Miss at your peril:
Salt flats, overland trip from Chile through the altiplano, and Potosi - 'Highlight
of Independent Travel'
» Brazil
-
 Intro: On the whole Brazil is a pretty western country - somewhere it's easy to
travel and have a good time. It's also home to some of the world's most beautiful scenery,
particularly along it's southern coast. Jungle regions may disappoint, as
prices run high and any tour is likely to have you not seeing the wood
for the trees as the expression goes, as with all trips of these nature
the focus is very much on flora and not fauna. Trips to the
Pantanal
(wet land areas) are far more
worthwhile, but it can be quite a touristic experience, costs are still
comparatively high and there a more than a few stories running around of cheap tours
turning into a disaster.
What really sets Brazil apart is, generally speaking, unlike the rest of South America it is fairly void of tourists, who are
scared off
by the distances and stick mainly to the run to Bolivia and Argentina from Rio
(the a main entry hub) taking in the Foz do Iguaçu.
Brazilian Portuguese, which you need to think
about more than just believing its pretty much the same as Spanish, needs some
mastering as English or Spanish is incredibly rarely spoken for a developed
country and day to day living costs are much higher than the likes of
Argentina and Peru or infact anywhere else South of the USA (Chile and a few Caribbean islands aside). And that's
really the deal - since as great a Brazil can be, if you have any illusions of
bargain travel, have to watch the pennies and don't speak a word of Portuguese, it's going to be a
lot less fun. You're not quite at European or North American prices, but
if you are hitting the big cities and popular beaches don't figure on cheap.
A double room in a Rio hostel will set you back over 100R or 50+US$ (although dorm beds are of course cheaper) and (especially when factoring in long distances),
bus travel will soon add up. A great network of internal flights are
good value and it's when you get away from the major attractions that you'll meet some great
fun people from the sexiest nation on earth. Speaking some Portuguese, avoid any crime and being
disposed to 'beach life' are the major factors in getting the very best from Brazil.
Those who do will deservedly rave about the place.
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Highlights: Foz do Iguaçu, Rio de Janeiro, carnival
(Salvador), the party loving friendly Brazilians, beautiful coastal towns
and islands. Oh and of-course
Caipirinhas.
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Lowlights: Amazon, distances and big cities (Rio aside)
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Visa strategy: Visa free on arrival for EU members
plus New Zealand / Israel. Visa required for
other nationalities (inc. Canada,
Japan, Australia). A Brazilian visa now costs $100 for US citizens.
Ouch!
Be warned that if visiting other countries in the region where yellow fever is a problem (e.g. Bolivia, Peru, Venezuela) a yellow fever certificate maybe requested on entry. You need to have the jab ten days before you travel.
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Typical tourist trail: Rio to the coast and down to Foz do Iguaçu then
on to Paraguay
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Dangers: Some violent crime. Care is required in big
cities as with anywhere in South America. Although few travellers experience serious problems it is worth remembering that along with a handful of other places on the globe, Brazil can be a very dangerous country with one of the highest rates of violent crime in the world, and care is needed even by day. Simple precautions like not wearing a flashy watch and not using ATMs on deserted streets and always hide your PIN make a lot of sense.
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Costs: US$50-60 a day should
cover you, if hitting some big cities. If you want your money to go the furthest, Northern Brazil is certainly cheaper and some knowledge of Portuguese
is essential. Kitchens in many hostels and good super markets mean
self-caters can really reduce daily costs. The same goes with using dorm bed
rather than private rooms.
Brazil has never been cheap compared to many other Latin American counties, but is getting increasingly more expensive mainly due to its massive economic growth which has significantly strengthened the Real as a currency. Those expecting ultra-budget travel, beware.
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Money: ATMs commonplace, although many don't work on
the international network. Look for HSBC branches which use the VISA network
(Cirrus much less common). Most bank change Travellers Cheques, but changing
cash or TCs on a Sunday can be quite difficult. On the whole you can pay for
most of your day to day getting about with a debit/credit card (need PIN
number), which limits your need to carry too much cash.
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Guide book: Rough Guide or Lonely Planet. For a full
list of regional guides please see here.
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People vibe:
-
Locals: Very friendly and welcoming, especially if you make an effort with
Portuguese. Younger travellers getting a little off the beaten track and
staying in communal accommodation are often welcomed into beach parties and
make friends very easily.
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Other travellers: Many British/Irish, not so many typical Gringos. Worth noting is as with in South East Asia, a large number of Israelis.
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Tourist factor: 6/10 (obviously away from Rio and
other main attractions)
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Accommodation: Can be quite expensive relative to the rest of South America.
There has been a big increase in international style hostels in the past few
years, but away from Rio and the like, you are limited to the smaller less
traveller/non-Portuguese speaking orientated Brazilian versions. For carnivals it's advisable that accommodation be
booked between August and November regardless of the carnival you choose to
view,
although you may be offered a home stay on arrival if you're lucky. If you are
looking for a double room in a Rio hostel, best
book before you arrive.
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Hot water: Fine
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Average cost: 70R up to 110R in cities, (approx.
$35 to $50) Note these are as with all average accommodation prices on this site for a double room. Is it worth noting that for Carnival or over New Year places jack their prices up, up to ten times, and have several day minimum stays.
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Communications: Okay internet, some international call centres. Post,
cheapest in South America
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Food: Sometimes expensive, buying your own at good supermarkets is an option. Is it also worth noting the outstanding variety of Brazilian food and fruit juices, with so many cultures from all over the world and all the fruits from the Amazon.
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Hassle and annoyance factor: None really, apart from Pantanal tours
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Brazilians love to
party and normally alcohol is involved. Cocktails including the famous
Caipirinhas and it's many variations are mixed very strong - so watch
how much you drink if out at night and in an unfamiliar area. Cocaine readily available in big cities
if you are looking - police
entrapment is common. Grass also widely available.
|
During summer (December-February)
many Brazilians take holiday's, making travel both difficult and expensive. At the
same time in Rio and the rest of the south the humidity is nasty. Summer is also the most
festive time of year, as Brazilians escape their apartments and take to the
beaches and streets. School holidays begin in mid-December and go through to
Carnival, usually held in late February.
Land: Economy buses are okay value and are
usually reasonably comfortable. Deluxe buses are sometimes very comfortable,
but obviously pricier. The cost of bus travel can however really add up, a
hire car is an option if you have the money or are in a group. Overnight
trips aren't too painful. Many companies offer difference classes on longer
routes, but the distances just go on forever!
Take for example the journey from Rio to Recife - 38 hours by bus. Train are a scenic option in places.
Air: To really cover
Brazil, those that can afford it may want to consider an air pass or much
easier use this countries excellent budget airline network. Gol, TAM and
the much troubled Varig are
the three leaders. You can check all there websites to get an idea of
routes, times and prices. These can be equally surprisingly low or high. Six
hours on a bus, Rio to Sao Paulo can be flown for less than 50US$ (not to
mention that Rio Santos Dumont and SP Congonhas airports are spectacular to take-off/land in). Booking on-line
proves far more difficult, due to recognising or security checking
non-Brazilian credit cards (this should change in the future), but these
airlines have desks that can be found in shopping malls or airports where
you can book. Equally a travel agent can do it for you, sometimes even
hostels. Getting deep into the interior normally requires the use of a
flight at some stage.
The three most popular Carnivals in Brazil are:
Salvador: Celebrated along 26km of streets filled
with approximately 2.2 million people. It's the biggest street party on Earth
according to The Guinness Book of World Records, it's also a giant open-air
festival of Brazilian music for free. About 411,000 out-of-state visitors,
mainly from Rio and São Paulo, come to participate in the 280+year-old party.
In Salvador it's all about participating in Carnival, and not only
watching when some of the best Brazilian bands and singers are in
action.
Recife/Olinda: Carnival in Recife and Olinda is
celebrated by approximately 1.5 million people along 12km of streets. About
100 dolls 3.6-meter tall, some dating as far back as 1932, are unique
to the Saturday parade in Olinda.
Rio: Takes place along a 700-meter runway, also know
as Sambódromo, an open-air stadium built 21 years ago to house the two-day
extravaganza that dates back to 1932. About 70,000 people cheer from the
grandstands, with tourists paying from US$100 to US$4,000 to watch the
spectacle. The cost of accommodation in Rio during this time is very
high and you are normally required to stay the week. Worth staying away
if your are not seeing the carnival.
The main parade (on Sunday and Monday) consists of 6 samba
schools per night with 4,500 people each, in colourful costumes and on
floats; great for photos and video. Although largely ignored by the
locals, it's popular among richer foreign tourists. The “Champions Parade” is on the Saturday
following Carnival and features the top 5 winning samba schools from the
previous weekend; the best way to see the highlights in Rio at a lower
admission cost.
|
» Chile
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Intro: Ten times longer than it is thin. Flying into Santiago you can
see mountains and the ocean in one quick glance. Like Brazil, Chile is far from a budget destination
and Spanish, which is spoke at an amazing speed, is hard to understand for a
beginner. Those landing in Santiago and heading north to the vast uninteresting region
that turns into the visually stunning altiplano at the border with Bolivia, may not be
overly impressed. However, those with the time and 'outside' personality who have good weather on
their side and head south to the lake
district and over subscribed
Patagonia are in for a real treat and will be on
cloud nine. Getting to Patagonia is problematic requiring a flight or, as with any travel in Chile, a long (but always
good) bus ride. Very much an outdoor destination, the beautiful fiordland and
national parks leave those with time to explore and the right weather
conditions breathless. There is also the opportunity to ski at good value
resorts. Those interested in Easter Island see details under the
Australia and the Pacific section summaries.
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Highlights: Patagonia and the lake district (you will need to trek
to see these properly), St. Pedro de Atacama and good value skiing (Esquel & Bariloche)
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Lowlights: Distances and the bottom of the world
(the continents most southern point is somewhat unspectacular).
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Visa strategy: Free on arrival for most
nationalities.
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Typical tourist trail: St. Pedro de Atacama to Santiago to Patagonia
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Hot/cold, wet and dry: Trekking in Patagonia only
possible in summer (European/N. American winter). Climate varies dramatically
from snow to sun
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Costs: Reasonable,
transportation is a major cost, especially paying for flights. Great
supermarkets so do your own cooking or sandwiches. Consider US$40-60 per day
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What to take: Some warm clothing. Sleeping bags and rain gear can
be hired for Patagonian treks and is okay quality, but not fantastic. You may do some camping and if
you are into this scene bringing all the gear with you is a good idea. You don't need
a tent to trek the Tories del Paine, there are rest houses, although they are
basic (need sleeping bag) plus get very crowded in peak season and close in the
winter.
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Money: ATMs
-
Getting around: Great overnight buses and cheap internal flights. Turn
up at the bus stations and try and get a discount on half empty departures just leaving except
on holidays. A lot of locals hitchhike.
-
Guide book: Lonely Planet or Footprint. Many use a
regional guide. For a full list of regional guides please
click here.
|
Getting to Patagonia is some what problematic, as there is no direct road link.
Road transport is a lengthy route via Argentina. A flight is the easiest solution
and not too costly if done with a budget carrier, not LAN Chile. There's a boat
run by NaviMag that is quite expensive, but a traveller favourite. It travels
through the beautiful fiord land and your trip maybe extremely beautiful or a gray haze. As with most things in Patagonia, so much depends on the weather.
When travelling by sea you can expect smooth sailing while in the fiords, apart from one stretch
on open seas that can be very rough.
It is worth noting that Chilean Patagonia connects easily with Argentina making trips to the spectacular Perito Moreno
Glacier and Tierra del Fuego no problem.
|
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People vibe:: Spanish spoken very fast and hard to understand
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Tourist factor: 7/10
-
Accommodation: Mainly okay, occasionally quite expensive
(Santiago). Private homes often offer
the best accommodation
-
Communications: Okay internet
-
Health: Altitude when entering the country by bus from Argentina or
Bolivia
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Media: For photos click here
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Food: The country seems to have an obsession with Hot Dogs. Great supermarkets
if you wish to prepare your own food.
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Hassle and annoyance factor: None
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Fantastic and cheap wine
Miss at your peril:
Patagonia and Easter Island - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'
» Colombia
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Intro: If you're looking
to be told that Colombia is not a dangerous country,
you won't find it here. Large sections are controlled by very nasty, unpredictable rebel
groups. Each year there are thousands of kidnapping incidents reported
throughout. Last year, 27 Americans and several Europeans were reported kidnapped in
various parts of the country. A figure that is
still increasing as cocaine looses it's popularity in the US and drug lords
look for other revenue streams. As recently as 2007, a British national was killed and many others before him have been killed
or kidnapped. 70% of the world's kidnappings take place in Colombia. Violent crime, and especially bus hold ups are common. There's
a lot written on the bad aspects of Colombia and these do on the whole relate to certain hot-spots easy to avoid, so there's no need to go on. What I can
tell you is Colombia is one of the most beautiful countries on earth and is virtually vacant
of tourists. Most travellers debate long and hard about visiting Colombia, finding
only negative comments on the net, posted by those who have not visited.
Personally speaking I made the decision to go and my comment is: Colombia should not be missed.
Just don't get carried away exploring off the beaten track - Colombia is
not like other countries. By sailing/flying
into Cartagena and travelling to Ecuador or vice-versa, with common sense, it
is unlikely you will have any problems other than the all present threat of theft. If possible, leave your
main bag somewhere (like Ecuador) and travel very light keeping all your
belongings
in a day sac, thus being able to keep it near to you at all times when travelling. Colombia
in places is spectacular
- take care and enjoy.
-
Highlights: Cartagena old town, San Agustin, Zona
Cafetera north of Cali,
Sierra Nevada and limited tourists
-
Lowlights: Common theft and generally unsafe situation
-
Visa strategy: Free upon entry
for most nationalities
-
Typical tourist trail: None (other than a quick transit taking in Bogotá and Cartagena)
-
Getting around: Great bus system and
excellent faster 'collectivos'
(mini-buses that leave when full). Good value on main routes, more expensive on
country routes. Travel at night at your own risk, and always know the situation
along the road you are travelling.
-
Costs: $35 per day, general costs much higher than in Ecuador - similar
costs to Brazil
-
Money: ATMs commonplace,
allows you to make small withdrawals at a time
-
What to take: As little as possible (keep your bag with you
at all times when on public transport), all
insured and nothing you mind loosing
-
Guide book: Footprint
and new Lonely Planet on the scene. Both with
a good level of detail and practical security advice.
-
People vibe:
-
Locals: Various,
however many don't want anything to do with travellers, consider them
all North American. Most however are very
affable, friendly and welcoming.
-
Other travellers: Various, many Germans, very few
north Americans - generally Europeans and Israelis
-
Tourist factor: 3/10
-
Accommodation: Hostels and bulk standard hotels in
cities, accommodation has much more character and is cheaper in rural areas.
Try and stay on a coffee farm.
-
Communications: Internet
can be a little difficult to find, but always available.
-
Media:
-
 Books: Most of 'The Gringo Trail' by Mark Mann is set in Colombia
and like so much fiction in it's style, is completely unrepresentative. 'A hundred years of solitude' is one of
the best books based in Colombia, if not the best ever written. Other Gabriel
Garcia Marquez titles are also highly recommended. As is Louis de Bernieres
trilogy, the first part (his first book), 'The War of Don Emmanuel's Neither
Parts' is the best of the three. Strange title (that has nothing to do with
the plot), hugely funny, clearly copied style from Gabriel Garcia Marquez, but
as with 'A hundred years of solitude' highly, highly recommended. (It should
be noted that Louis de Bernieres trilogy is set in a fictional South American
country - that resembles parts of Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela (Grand Colombia)).
Click here for other South
America recommended reads.
-
TV: Spanish cable and CNN
-
Food: Okay, eating out not overly cheap in cities,
commonplace supermarkets means cooking
for yourself in hostels is easy. Water comes in silly little packets and fruit,
especially mangos are ubiquitous and cheap.
-
Hassle and annoyance factor: No real hassle, just the constant threat of crime.
The most hassle is found in Cartagena.
|
Dangers: Considerable in rebel areas, violent crime and petty theft
rampant. The biggest threat are night bus robbery and travelling through a rebel
area. Ask locals and, if necessary, your embassy. Having your bag stolen is no
joke, remember there is a higher chance of this in Colombia than most other
countries. Again take as little as possible, keep passport(s), tickets, plus TCs
and credit card cancellation phone numbers in the safest possible place and
separate from your main bag. Take real care of your stuff, don't be put off
just be prepared if there is a problem (as you should anywhere). Common sense
is the order of the day, such as giving drugs a wide berth and the one solid
bit of advice: don't arrive after dark, especially in places like Cali (unless
being met at the airport). However, the country has improved
dramatically its safety issues for tourists. 2007 was one of the best years
for internal and external tourism. Millions of Colombians travelled all over the country and hundreds
of thousands of foreigners visited the country. Most urban areas are
considered safe for tourists (Cartagena, Bogotá, Medellin, Cali). Hot spots - Continued kidnappings make many rural
areas unsafe, and travellers are advised to avoid excursions that include
Choco, Putumayo, Meta and Caqueta and the rural areas of Antioquia, Cauca,
Narino, and Norte de Santander.
'I'm worry about foreigners being afraid to come to
Colombia.
There are only some parts you can't not go, but most of the tourist sites
are safe. In big cities people are nice and security problems are like any
other big city in Latin America. I have spend most of my live travelling Colombia
and I haven't seen a guerrilla yet. In Colombia we have many natural parks
not all off them are safe but many are. Don't go to Colombia only for drugs.
We on the whole produce, not consume. If people from other countries stop
consuming cocaine Colombia wouldn't have drug and guerrilla problems. Don't
be afraid of travelling on the main road, they have military present and are
safe'. - Felipe - Bogotá
'I
happened on your very good site by chance, a gift to
the world.
I've not much to say ..... I have been living in Barranquilla, Colombia for 6
months. If one keeps an eye out for the bad guys, it is all quite manageable security wise.
Common sense is the order of the day. Do not go about drunk and do not even
THINK of doing drugs here. But if one is stupid enough to try that they need to
stay home.
Here is one solid bit: Don't arrive after dark. Especially in Cali. This applies to first time
travelers, etc. Seasoned vets with folks meeting them at the airport will be
OK. Otherwise, it's a "no go" item.' - Ernie Eggler
Since the
Pan-American Highway grinds to a halt just past Panama City, there is no road
access between North and South America. The would-be traveller has 3 options:
flying, which will cost about $US160, sailing, or trekking through the Darien
Gap. Since the Gap has become increasingly dangerous due to guerrilla activity
and smuggling, the Darien option is not for the faint-hearted and very
expensive. Read the full article
here written by Glen David Short, a freelance writer based in Cartagena
and posted on Caribent
Not as common as you might think, most of Colombia is an
anti-theses to the moustache bearing, machete bearing, rolled bank note up
nose image that popular media portrays. Cocaine in Colombia is - if you have contacts
- available
for less than US$5 a gram. If you don't have contacts buying off the street
is something you should really think about before doing, as risks are high and
prices inflated. On the Caribbean coast cocaine is often quite lumpy due to
the humidity. Even when powdered out as much as possible, when snorted in this
form can make you quite ill after a few heavy days. |
» Ecuador
-
Intro: Ecuador is many travellers first and sometimes, only taste of
South America, either arriving from Central America or seen as the ideal taster
country, being safe and compact (a rarity in South America). It's the departure
point to the biggest draw on the continent and what most wealthier travellers
are in Ecuador to get a flight to - the Galapagos Islands. Ecuador is all these
things, safe, compact and easy (the number of North American visitors is testament
to this), but can be seen as a
 disappointment compared to the rest of the continent
and over crowded. Otavalo's culture is hard to find and the towns famous market is a fest of
dollar pushers and takers. Baños (the bathroom of South America), a number one
destination offers nothing more than a few good bike rides, sugar cane to chew
on and a chance to relax with good restaurants and books (best place in South
America to find them) the same goes of the highly spoken of Vilcabamba. The coastal
region lacks really good beaches and scenery, the jungle is over crowded and over
priced (compared to Bolivia). The famous ride on the roof of a train has lost
the best parts of its track to various El Niños and the cities are certainly not
much to write home about. It's still fun though and since it is easy (and smallish),
it provides a good chance to relax and get away from constant bus travel. It's
also cheap! The chance to climb a volcano should not be missed and the one attraction
that really shines does so, so brightly, if you get the chance to get there all
else is forgotten (that's the Galapagos Islands by the way).
-
Highlights: Galapagos Islands, smallish size, standing on (and either
side of!) the equator and laid back attitude
-
Lowlights: Coastal areas and non-eventful tourist traps
-
Visa strategy: Free visa on entry - around $100 park entry fee to Galapagos
-
Typical tourist trail: Quito to Otavalo, back to Quito and down the
avenue of volcanoes to Baños and other villages in the south. Most travellers
come from Peru or Costa Rica
-
Dangers: Some guerrilla activity in very north west, along Colombian
border
-
Passport: Technically you
should carry your passport on you at all times, the original
not a photocopy. You could end up in jail for not doing so.
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Jungle, coast and highlands all have different
best times to go. Overall pretty much a year round scene.
-
Getting around: Pretty good cheap buses. Roads good, just windy
-
Guide book: Footprint
-
People vibe:
-
Locals: Fine, a little tourist jaded in places
-
Other travellers: Lots of Americans and a few package tourists
-
Tourist factor: 9/10
-
Accommodation: Good value
-
Communications: Good internet
-
Health: Many travellers do suffer from food poisoning and related stomach
problems
-
Media:
-
Food: Good choice and range in tourist areas, more limited outside. Can you
bring yourself to eat a guinea pig?
-
Hassle and annoyance factor: None
-
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Vilcabamba is famous
for it's hallucinogenic
cactuses, however most backpackers won't come across them. Grass is of course
available pretty widely and certain so in beach/touristy areas.
-
Rating: 5.5/10 - note that typical mainland tourist
destinations are rather disappointing (Banos, Papallacta), but many speak
highly about more off the beaten track regions.
See comment. But then again
comments are not meant to be disparaging of Ecuador, remember it summarises
the whole and compares against other similar countries in the region
directly.
|
For full details see separate
Galapagos Cruises page.
Summary info: if on a budget, sort out any arrangements, when you are in Ecuador and
not before you go. Prices may not be as expensive as you have heard of and choices are overwhelming with
numerous pitfalls (such as ending up on a nasty boat).
The recommended way to go about things, is to just buy your flight to the islands
and when there get a few people together (extra bargaining power) and go around the
travel agents looking for empty spaces on boats at a good price, you also have the advantage
of being able to see the boats for yourself. Choose a boat that travels during the night
and allow about $1000 for the whole venture (inc. flights). As remarkable place
as it is, $1000 or even a rock bottom price could be considered poor value compared to what
else you could see and do on the continent. Think about what you will see and
how into wildlife, especially birds, you are. It's worth noting that if
you dive (have PADI) and enjoy it, that you will get the most from the trip. All
guidebooks are full of the pros, cons and pitfalls of these trips - read carefully
and
remember, you don't have to go - it's not compulsory!
The Sucre has been replaced by USD. Use ATMs
which are wide spread throughout the country. If you don't have an ATM card,
then cash or TCs change with ease. Credit cards can be used to pay for tours
with a small commission.
Costs: Ecuador is good value, less
than $25 per day if sticking to cheap rooms. However, head to the Galapagos Islands and blow your
entire funds, the temptation is often too much.
|
» Peru
-
 Intro: The home of the Incas, Machu Picchu and the amazing sacred valley,
Peru is the image of South America most people bring to mind and Machu Picchu
is somewhere everyone will want to see, but, to coin a phrase, that's just the
top of the pyramid - Peru is the Egypt of the Americas. There certainly is a lot
to see, but most ancient sights, if not destroyed/assimilated by the Incas were
finished off by the Spanish. Therefore what's left, outside of Machu Picchu (which the Spanish never found) and Nasca can be a little dull unless you're an
archaeologist. Peru is a huge country,
which means two things, the first that distances can get you down especially crossing
mountains, but secondly, if you have got time and knowledge of Spanish, there is loads
to explore off the beaten track, jungle river trips and great treks. Time is a
precious commodity, Cusco can take a week minimum and will try to keep you there
for longer with it's great bars and restaurants. Lima is not overly interesting
and the country is generally poor value compared to Bolivia and Asia, and good cheap food, in any variety is hard to get.
-
Highlights: Cusco, in-depth history, Ica, Nasca, seeing condors,
trekking around Huaraz and sand boarding in Huacachina.
-
Lowlights: Inca trail and it's raising cost - not
taking anything away from the ruins at the end, Puno, distances and generally
being overloaded with historical facts and ancient civilizations. The poor man's
Galapagos Islands off Pisco are a little of a let down unless you have never
seen a seal or seagull before. Be warned coastal fog covers the whole coast
(especially Lima) for several months a year.
|
|
|
The Inca trial to Machu Picchu from near Cusco is
something every visitor to Peru will want to do. Regulations have recently
changed requiring you to trek with a guide (tour) therefore technically
outlawing doing the trek yourself. You will need to take a tour from Cusco
ranging from about $300 to $400 (2008 pricing - see right - and only a guide as prices
vary considerably from company to company, you can still find under
US$300 tours, but with a train the day after the trek (see below) and a
few other elements excluded and possibly second class guides/equipment) - that's about double
previous years prices and you could double it still if you think it's a
good idea to book with a company outside Peru (it isn't). 
Picking a
company is tough as it seems when dealing with the cheapies you will hear just as many bad reports about them
as some of the expensive trips - it's a lottery, but standards are
on the whole good. Think about the sort of people who will
be on the trek with you and what you actually get for your money.
The tour
will take you by mini-bus to the km 82 marker where you arrive at about
midday, you walk (little interest) to the real start - km 88 - and where the
train stops, and then a bit further onto camp for the night. The next day
you walk up Dead Woman's Pass, which a lot of people make a fuss about, but
if you are acclimatized is not too bad and porters are available. On the
other side of the pass you camp again.
Next day you go over another pass and
it is only here the trail gets really interesting. You pass some great ruins
and camp again, as far as you can go. That night there is a little party,
but you'll be getting up very early the next morning in order to make it to
the sun gate for
sunrise. This is somewhat of a let down, since you probably won't make it for actual
sunrise. Its a walk in the dark and Machu Picchu is covered in shadow for
the first
few hours. It's only when the shadow passes and the sun hits it, that it
really impresses (this is not the postcard view). Also you'll going to be
tired from the early start and late night (noise from previous nights party). Everyday you camp about lunch time and the trail is only
about 25km and took me an easy two days. Basically tours are stretched out.
Water is always available (take purifying tablets) from streams and a guide
is not needed.
After seeing the ruins the
train departs Aguas Calientes at 15:55 and arrives back in Cusco for
20:20. If you want to save money ask the trekking company not to include
the return train ticket and spend the night at Aguas Calientes and
return on an early morning train departing Aguas Calientes at 0600 to
Ollantaytambo and then take a connecting bus service back to Cusco. This
ride will cost about 15USD, but the train can be booked up in July and
August. Some of the budget trekking companies include this cheaper
ticket as standard in their 4 day package.
Several years back many did the trail without a tour as regulations
were
not that strict (but have become so), if you want to try then here is how. Take the
train to km 88 not bus to 82. Make sure you have everything you need
(rentable in Cusco) and can prove you are a responsible trekker. If you have any
problems, sign up for a cheap tour to use their guide to pass the entry check
point, then go solo from there (arrangements can normally be made with low
cost companies for just using there tour to get you passed the check point). The admission
to the trail is around $50, half price with
a student card - there is no way not to pay for this admission or pull of
some student card trick (i.e. sharing it). |
Increasing cost of the Inca Trail:
Due to the
rising costs in Cusco for backpackers (the trail is min now in the 350-400US$ range (plus another US$90 for porters),
new regulations in the pipeline might raise it another 50US$), but
it's not the tour operators who are making more money - in 2000 the entrance
fee was about 17USD now it's pushing 100USD. Additionally the train for your
return has increased 1000% over the same period to (cheapest) near 50USD with enforced
foreigner pricing; taxes payable have increased by the same amount. Hostels
are being pushed by the government to raise prices and meet new building codes:
hotel consortiums now own the railroad to Machu Picchu and are pushing to basically
eliminate backpackers from visiting Agues Calientes (town at base of Machu Picchu)
unless they want to pay tourist prices.
Prices are for four days and include entrance fees,
tax and return on train. A US$30 discount is offered to students who have
valid ISIC cards and to children under 16 years old. What is notable is the increased Inca Trail rates apply to everyone
including Peruvians and other Latin Americans and their absence from the
Inca Trail and Cusco is obvious compared to previous years.
The big
price increases really boil down to tourist pressure on this over
subscribed trail, stricter regulations and better standards. For
example porters are now paid a minimum wage and carrying less
weight (maximum of 25kg). Tour operators now have to take communal
dining tents, kitchen tents and only professionally qualified guides are
allowed to lead the groups. The number of trekkers has been limited to
about 200 people per day (that's tourists, 300 staff allowed) - which
means it is worth allowing yourself a few day in Cusco before you want
to trek. In the low season you find days when permits are available 3/4 days
in advance, but at busy times of year (May to September) - book
ahead or do a different trek.
Just visiting Machu Picchu with no Inca Trail: In the big scheme of things, not walking the Inca trail and saving your money is no major deal. To just visit, you take the train US$100-150 return, then US$42 park entrance fee and then US$12 return for the bus from the station to Machu Picchu. Still an expensive day out.
Alternatively, the area of Chachapoyas and the ruins of Kuelap are now becoming a really great place for mountain trekking and backpacking.
For an
alternative Inca Trail, the following Inca Rail Trail, has been recommended.
From Cusco pick up a minibus to Ollantaytambo (be aware you will be
transferred in Urubamba), this costs only a few soles. From there walk a
good 35km to Aguas Calientes along the railway track (remember 35km is a
long way and you need to be fit and even then it's at least 10-12 hours at a
reasonably quick pace). However you will see some ruins on the way. You of
course need good shoes and snacks/water, but there are shops at the 82km
marker, where
the regular Inca trail starts and where is probably a better place to pick
this rail trail up. When you arrive in Aguas Calientes (at the base of Machu
Picchu) it is
recommended that you book a train ticket straight away back to Ollantaytambo,
since tickets go fast. The cost will be something like US$12. Stay the night
and have a soak, there are plenty of cheap places to stay. Next day walk up
to Machu Picchu for free, (hell of a hill, but only a 4-5km). Or catch the
bus for US$4.50 is you feel you have done enough walking. It's going to cost
20US$ to get into Machu Picchu when you get to the top. After head back to
Aguas Calientes and have another soak in the hot springs and/or beer. Stay
the night and catch the train back early with your prior booked ticket. |
-
Dangers: Some violent crime, be careful at night
– don't walk with your pack on after dark or in the early hours of the morning
-
Visa strategy: Free on border
-
Typical tourist trail: Bolivia - Puno, Cusco, Arequipa, Nasca, Pisco,
Lima, Huaraz, Trujiillo - Ecuador.
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Jungle, coast and highlands all have different
best times to go, pretty much a year round scene. Serious coastal fog much of
the year. Highland towns like Cusco get cold at night. Peru's peak tourist
season is from June to August, which is the dry season in the highlands, and
the best time to go for hiking. Many of the major fiestas occur in the wettest
months and continue undiminished in spite of heavy rain.
-
Money: ATMs; a Visa Plus as well as MasterCard's Cirrus card is useful.
Can withdraw dollars in some machines.
-
Costs: Not brilliant value for money compared to
Bolivia or Ecuador, about $40 per day. Allow $150-$250 to do the Inca trail
and much more for a jungle trip. Costs are of course lower than in a developed
country, but higher than those in many neighbouring countries. Lima and Cuzco
are the most expensive destinations in Peru.
-
What to take: You can rent all equipment for the Inca trail
in Cusco. Take good walking shoes and a warm fleece, plus if you have on, your International
Student card for the Inca trail.
-
Getting around: Buses, some roads (Lima to Cusco) a killer, distances
just go on and on. The Pan American highway is smooth and flat. Trains are slow,
cold and over priced. Internal flights good value and a necessity to get to
many
jungle areas.
-
Tourist factor: 10/10 in Cusco, outside of 7/10 to 4/10
-
Accommodation: Reasonable accommodation, brilliant choice in Cusco.
-
Communications: Good internet in major towns
-
Health: Altitude and food poisoning
-
Media: For photos click here
-
Books: Very limited opportunities to buy
-
TV: Hotels with cable have Sony channel
and others, with loads of treats. Restaurants
and bars in Cusco show movies
-
Food: Outside of Cusco, poor and expensive. Eating fixed menus is
a
way to keep the costs down
-
Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited
-
People vibe:
-
Locals: Not as friendly as other South American nations
-
Other travellers: Typical Gringos, packages in Cusco
-
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: You may hear of Cocaine available in Cusco
night clubs.
|
Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash is an
amazing route that doesn't get as much press as many other
routes (Chiquian is a lovely place to start your trek).
The best time to trek is the "summer" months of June-July, but trekking
is definitely an option most of the year. A guide costs roughly
US$15 per day, Arrieros US$10 per day, and Burros about US$5.
From Huaraz, the closest point to really gear up is
Chiquian is about 110 km, and is a great place to set off from
with basic accommodation. You can literally just walk out of town
towards the mountains. About 12-15 days is enough to trek around
the range. There are some beautiful hidden lakes and little
farms dotting the valleys, a truly beautiful place. There are a
few spots that tend to be crowded with tents, but for most nights and days
you will see no other trekkers.
Some suggestions e-mailed in for highlights away from the general traveller
focus of Southern Peru. A little north of Huaraz (on the road to La Merced in the Amazon) you can find the lovely Andean city
of Tarma.
Take a chicken bus up to Tarma Tambo and make the Inca trail up there! Ask
some local to walk you around (usually the younger villagers are more than
willing to tour you around for a few soles and are able to tell you all about
the discovered Inca ruins over there.) The scenery is magnificent and
the people are great! Knowledge of some Spanish and showing some interest is
key to success. Adjacent to
Trujillo you can surf the Pacific in Huanchaco where a real surfing atmosphere
and great waves welcome you and where you can stay at nice hostels at fairly
low rates. Take the river tour to Iquitos, in the North Eastern part of Peru
and live the Amazon life. Peru is more than just the southern, dryer part. Any
other comments welcome.
 Guide book:
Footprint. For a full list of regional guides
click here.
Reading: Among loads of excellent guides and fiction
is The White Rock (see image) it tells the story of the Incas, the discovery
of them by the conquistadors and the author's journey to find a long lost site
to rival Machu Picchu. Archaeology, History, Adventure - and funny too. If you
want an irreverent account of travels through Peru and Bolivia then Inca Kola
by Matthew Parris is also an excellent good read. 'The Gringo Trail' by Mark Mann
has some very interesting facts in it's Peru chapters. To see more details of
this book and others please click here
|
Miss at your peril:
Cusco and trekking around Huaraz - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'
The Others (briefly)
»
Argentina
Miss at your peril:
'Highlight of Independent Travel'
-
Intro:
Not so long ago long-term travel in Argentina was prohibitively expensive
for budget travellers, then everything changed with the devaluation of the
the once US dollar pegged Peso. Argentina became very cheap. Now with the
worst of the economic crisis behind the country, Argentina when comparing
standards of comfort when travelling and to neighbouring countries,
particularly Brazil, is a bargain (do note however that with high inflation prices are creeping up). Coupled with this Argentina is an
extremely likeable place. Buenos Aires is a fantastic fairly laid-back city (and big enough
to escape the crowds that can blight some other of the countries
attractions). Countrywide, there's a good travellers network and it's stunning beautiful
with huge variation - even the Spanish sounds gorgeous here!
-
Highlights: Value for money, Buenos Aires, Patagonia, the lake district
and the Foz do Iguaçu (see Brazil above)
-
Lowlights: Distances and the bottom of the world
- Ushuaia is the Timbuktu of the Americas, someone where everyone seems to
want to make a bee-line for. It's not unattractive nor without merit, but as
with the really Timbuktu, somewhat overrated and unspectacular (compared to
other parts of Chile/Argentina, that don't lie on the Tierra del Fuego).
-
Visa strategy: Free on arrival for most
nationalities.
-
Typical tourist trail: There are several tourist
trails, but they normally include Buenos Aires then take in Iguaçu Falls,
Salta, Mendoza and of course Ushuaia (and Patagonia with it's spectacular
Perito Moreno Glacier).
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Trekking in Patagonia only
possible in summer (European/N. American winter). As with Chile, huge climate varies
from the countries top to bottom.
-
Costs: Very reasonable,
transportation is a major cost, especially paying for flights.
If use to paying for buses in Peru/Bolivia/Ecuador, you are going to find
buses tickets expensive, but the standard good. Consider US$30-50 per day, depending on the distance you travel and if you use easy to find cheap dorm beds.
-
Getting around by air: In terms of Airlines, Aerolineas Argentinas (domestic +
international) and its domestic-only wing Austral are known as the most
reliable and extensive in their coverage, but they're also expensive for
foreigners. Aerolineas offers domestic combo pack if you fly into Argentina
with them, but this is now generally regarded as a pretty bad deal, since it
would be as cheap or cheaper to book domestic flights individually. LADE is a weird military carrier that apparently has rock-bottom
rates, but flights are sporadic and can be unreliable. LAN Chile also might
have some domestic flights in Argentina. For further afield such as for
Asuncion, Brazil or Chile, Aerolineas, Varig. The domestic airport in Buenos
Aires is called Aeroparque Jorge Newberry (or simply "aeroparque"), although
Aerolineas Argentinas also flies some domestic routes out of Ezeiza, the
international airport.
-
Tourist factor: Argentina is a big country and you can easily escape the crowds, but at major attractions it can get quite crowded.
-
Accommodation: Good section of hostels in BA and other major destinations, many offering excellent reasonably priced double rooms if dorms are not your thing. These hostels are an excellent point for getting information, planning your trip and meeting people. Elsewhere hotels and guesthouse are quite reasonable and plentiful.
-
Communications: Plenty of internet places in major towns and attractions. Plus in most hostels
-
Food: Some of the best steak in the world and at very reasonable prices.
|
»
Paraguay
-
A quick low down:
Despite recent time spent in Paraguay, it's hard to put something down about
a country such as Paraguay. To say it's void of any attraction is obvious wrong.
In fact just being in a country void of the streams of tourist that flood
the likes of Bolivia and Peru is a highlight, but there are no salt flats or
Inca ruins here. What Paraguay offers is a look at a sleepily steamy South
America.
Those with the time will surely find many
a wonder, but time at the
expense of visits to very similar and superior attractions in neighbouring
countries (national parks and Jesuit
reduccions).
Paraguay is easily accessible from the Foz do Iguaçu on a day trip, but its
border town is the worst the country has to offer. Six hours on a bus from
the Foz do Iguaçu border, is the sleepy capital almost out of a novel -
Asunción. Located right on a swampy river and the Argentina border it makes the
logistics of getting across the continent (from the falls or Rio to Salta,
Chile and ultimately Bolivia), much easier. From Asunción there
are river boats north for a price and some interesting (if a little expensive)
places to stay such as ranches, but that's it.
There's a lot of history
and it's interesting to simply be there, but that's about your lot. It's not
referred to as South America's empty quarter for nothing.
|
»
Uruguay
-
A quick low down: It's very hard not to like
Uruguay, like Argentina and Brazil it's civilised, it's also laid back
and friendly - but unlike these neighbours and more like Paraguay
there's not that much going on. If you're in Buenos Aires, Uruguay can
be reach easily (a few hours capital to capital and about 60US$ on the
ferry) and if you have the time it's worthwhile.
The three most visited attractions and highlights are:
Colonia, a charming colonial town and easier to reach from BA than
Montevideo. Second comes the capital, Montevideo, seemingly a million
miles away from BA in size and hassle. A pleasant place where the top
attraction could be argued to be a collection of port side restaurants (Mercado
del Puerto). Lastly is Punta del Este (and the whole of the so
called Uruguayan Rivera plus the Santa Teresa NP) a collection of
beaches that reach around to the Brazilian boarder. These beach are
stunning, many in resort style, can be crowded and are, well just
beaches. All of the above are well worth a look if not pushed for time
or money. There is a good network of buses and budget places to stay,
but none, unless endless enjoying a beach, require too much of your
time. For example it can be hard to fill a day in somewhere like Colonia
and the others aren't far behind. Inland you'll find few travellers and
a lot of flat cattle grazing land, real
gaucho
country and if you want to pay for it you can relax and horse ride on
ranches. Most just take in the Capital and/or Colon on a few days side
trip from Argentina.
|
» Venezuela
-
Venezuela is not very assessable from either Ecuador (a trip through Colombia
that many would rather not make) or Brazil (just simply impractical), but is
still visited by many backpackers, most of which find little to do and skip it
quick (not that it is completely void of gems). Angel Falls is a difficult and
expensive trip to make and the beaches, although very nice can be beat in the
rest of South America and certainly in Central America. Merida is similar to Cusco with better weather and without Machu Picchu or the crowds and is recommended. Also to see is Los Llanos. Amazon boat trips are the real highlight and have a DIY style where you find your man, boat, etc. - as with all amazon tours expensive.
Recent problems have no
doubt declined tourist numbers, especially package tourists, but certainly
during 2007 Venezuela was safe to visit. Caracas and police still remain unfriendly.
|
 Footprint:
South American Handbook 2008 -
Ben Box
Buy/view:in the USA (amazon.com),
in Canada (amazon.ca) or
in the UK (amazon.co.uk)
 Highly
Recommended
For a full list of planning guides,
recommended guide books and reading material, please click here.
For hostels (if you prefer them) in South America have a looks at www.minihostels.com. They are a network of independently owned hostels all over South America and in some cities they also have language schools, tours, and restaurants. Comment: 'The hostels I found on their site were all clean, safe, fun, and really friendly, plus on the site you can see pictures and read descriptions and link to the website of the hostel which makes it way better than hostelbookers or hostelworld. Best of all, you can buy a minihostels card for US$10 and get 10% off every hostel in the network and all the other businesses they feature on the site. Its pretty sweet and helped me find cool stuff to do and great places to stay and is way better organized than any other site I've found. - Rebeca |
|
Remember, this is only a take (an overview if you will); very few get the chance to see every inch of every country or have the time to get everyone's opinion (you are welcome and encouraged to mail in yours). Please, please if you have been anywhere recently send your comments to contribute and help keep all
information fresh for future travellers. Or if you are about to head off
remember this site when you return and put a few lines in an e-mail to let us
know if things have changed. |
The word gringo originated in the conflict between Mexican and
American soldiers in the border between the two countries and comes directly
from English 'green go!'
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Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking,
budget travel country advice, info and summaries for: South
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