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Welcome to backpacker central!

Come meet the cliché. South East Asia is enormously popular, but at the same time if you can draw yourself away from the beaches and bars, you'll find a safe easy region to travel with loads to discover. Just remember there is a world out there that is not South East Asia to also discover.

We always like to say, it is worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based upon.

A big thanks to Trevin Blount for his detailed account of his 8month trip in the region which was used for a major update.

Get your bearings... show/hide map of the region

• Intro: Indonesia represents an enormous area to explore, with most travellers focusing only on small parts. Its islands offer fabulously varied scenery, from volcanoes to idyllic beaches and desert.

  This can be one of the most rewarding of all Asian destinations, but with some 17,000 islands (the world's largest archipelago) too little time or patience and too much travel can turn a trip into a miserable stressful race between islands with some very hot/humid weather and shitty roads (and drivers). Equally Indonesia is no Thailand and those looking for universally easy transport and (Southern Bali aside) a party atmosphere, will be sadly disappointed.

  A long standing (if not the longest) traveller favourite and firmly on the South East-Asian 'Banana Pancake Trail', Indonesia in general is probably the most varied country in the region. Comparing the tourist centers/resorts of Bali with the mountains of Irian Jaya is an impossible task. The distance between Aceh in the West and Papua in the East is more than 4,000 kms (2,500 miles), comparable to the distance between New York City and San Francisco.

  Few however get past Bali and near-by Islands. Although for good reasons, Bali is a name synonymous with paradise and with an international airport to boot, likewise nearby islands are cheaper and easier/quicker to access than from Jakarta. From Bali you can easily get the once fabled and inaccessible Gilli Islands, arrange boat trips to see dragons on Komodo/Rinca and hop on tours/flights to the temple and volcanic highlights of Java.

  It is certainly true that when many think of Indonesia they think of Bali, the 'jewel-in-the crown' of the Indonesian tourist industry. Bali does have much to offer from a place to kick back, the fabulous Ubud to great sweeping beaches and excellent waves. However, on the whole it represents everything Indonesia is not and in its blackest spots (Kuta), hosts some of the worst tourists you will find anywhere. Bali is not to be missed, but is not a good reflection of Indonesia.

  Nevertheless away from the small island of Bali it has to be noted that there are huge chunks of Indonesia that are not only a pain to get too, but have limited facilities for visitors and are of not much interest (compared to other parts of South East Asia). At the end of the day many just prefer Thailand (although Indonesia is better value and less crowded).

  You will meet many who don't really care for Indonesia, undoubtedly these will be people who stayed in the tourist centres of Bali, Java and the Gilis and got more than their fair share of hassle, crowds, scams and overcharging. In Sumatra everyone you meet will love it. Indonesia ranks to the lofty heights of destinations such as India, Mexico and Morocco - places you can always return and find more.

  Others like Indonesia simply because it is not Thailand and has a greater sense of adventure attached to it. Nevertheless this is still South-East Asia and has the same flavours and same kind of travellers as elsewhere in the region. Some will love it, others will be slightly disappointed.

As many do now know, Indonesia is the world's most populous Muslim nation and many have bee put off exploring since the two Bali bombings and other incidents such as small attacks on cafés in Jakarta. Don't be. With the same common sense that needs applying everywhere, there is no problem (with terrorism at least; there are always dangers wherever you are, from buses, boats, etc.).

At the time of the bombings, some governments advised not travelling to Bali (even South East Asia) - crazy advice. Not spending any time in Kuta or Jakarta is better advice - bomb or no bomb! No tourism will literary kill many parts of this nation. Indonesia is not the Middle East or anything like it. Obviously a Muslim country at first impression, Indonesia is however a secular democracy where no avowedly religious party has ever received more than 8% of the vote in national parliament. That said parts - namely Aceh - are far more Islamic than others. Although it might look Islamic, it feels undoubtedly South-East Asian.

Indonesia has suffered great upheaval in the last ten or so years - everything from peaceful demonstrations to armed conflict. However, the situation in Indonesia is often exaggerated by western media, making it seem like the whole place is in turmoil. There has been problem in areas of Aceh, Central Sulawesi Province (especially Palu, Poso and Tentena), Maluku Province (especially Ambon), Papua and West Papua, all of which have experienced unrest in the past, but as we write this are calm and typically life is simple. Indeed Ache has become a recent travellers favourite with almost off of the recent problems behind the region.

Equally a reputation of problems that keeps mainstream backpackers away are just what it needs to attracts those searching for the next 'beach' to places as stunning and hard to reach as the Banda Islands in Maluku.

Still it pays to keep in touch with the news when in the country outside of Bali, Lombok (and around) and Java. Equally, Indonesians do seem a little crazy (just look at the way they drive)!

• Visa strategy: The Indonesian Government requires nationals from most countries to purchase a tourist visa on arrival at one of the main air or sea ports. A 7-day transit visa on arrival (at pretty much all common entry points) costs around US$10 and a 30 day visa costs US$35 per person (have the cash on you, in exact change US$ helps). A 30 day visa is extendible for another 30 days (a time consuming process). Be aware that Immigration officials calculate the 30-day period as follows: your arrival day is counted as your first day, and you must leave the country on the 30th or 60th day! After 60 days it is US$20 a day fine if you overstay, or get a new [social] visa If you are not arriving at one of the main points of entry you will need to obtain a visa prior to travel. The cost in advance varies depending on the country of application, but seems to be about $35-60US depending on where you apply and where you are from. In the case of Bali you can get a visa exemption, but you will need to show an onward ticket as this visa cannot be extended.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Sumatra is right on the equator - so often hot or wet, but mountains can be quite cold and snow can be found on peaks in central Irian Jaya. The seasonal variations between wet and dry are a little varied for different parts of the country and you are best to consult a more detailed guide book, but generally speaking travel is fine all year round and wet season downpours last only a few hours. Even the driest periods seem damp, hot and humid in most parts.

• Typical tourist trail: Although it is a popular stop for many looking to explore SE Asia away from the mainland (after all this was the destination that started Lonely Planet), truth be told relatively speaking there are few foreign visitors outside of Bali, and then even less outside of Java's main tourist trail (Yogyakarta and Gunung Bromo) and Lombok (backpacker beach hangout Kuta and the Gilis). Cheap and easy budget airline flights from Singapore to Surabaya, Jakarta and Bali aid traveller-traffic. Relatively few make the journey overland from the SE Asian mainland, but it is quite easy and Bali with its international airport and paradise invoking name is clearly the main tourist point.
  
  Most starting from Bali will either stay there (there is plenty to see/do) or take a ferry to the tiny Gilli isles or Lombok. Overall Bali is the best and worst of Indonesia. It has fascinating art and culture and if you start from the Dieng Plateau in Central Java and head east it's really cool to see the development of the art and architecture. The Balinese (outside of southern beach resorts) are also immensely kind, friendly and gentle especially for the amount of tourism that they receive. Yet all the scams and overcharging that is an issue in Java and Lombok are magnified.

• The more adventurous will take trips either overland or by air to Flores where Komodo dragons can be seen nearby or arrange a trip to one of the temples or volcanoes in Java. Very few take in Jakarta for good reason or other more remote islands (also for good reasons: effort and time required).

• At the other end of the country Sumatra hosts the steady stream of travellers that come from the South East Asian mainland and with progress in Aceh some travellers are finding long forgotten gems in that region which are widely publicised in guides. Most in Sumatra goes from Medan to Bukit Lawang/Ketambe, Lake Toba, Bukittinggi, Padang. With maybe additions like Pulau Weh, Pulau Banyak, and Kerinci NP. Pulau Banyak is a group of islands off the Acehnese coast and many travelers are raving about it, perfect undiscovered paradise islands.

• Getting off the beaten track: With such a vast area, getting off the beaten track is easy given the right amount of time and money. One such area is the Bird's Head Peninsula of West Papua, the Indonesian part of New Guinea (aka Irian Jaya), for which Marc Todts has contributed an excellent summary - click here to see it.

• Costs: Endless troubles ensure the Rupiah is excellent value; prices vary from island to island but are always reasonable. $25 a day is no problem. A long stay in resort towns in Bali (such as Kuta and around), yacht tours to islands (such as to see Komodo Dragons) or similar can increase this significantly. Foreigner pricing (being charged more than a local) is horrendous in Java and problem through Indonesia.

• Money: ATM's commonplace in populous or tourist areas and in most cities and islands, take supply of cash out to further islands with you.

• Getting around depends on the island. On major islands such as Java or anywhere tourists normally go, it's a breeze. Off the beaten track in Kalimantan or West Papua there are few roads and options are more limited.

  In general transportation is by buses some good, others not so. Avoid taking Ekonomi class busses because the overcharging is a major issue (even locals are overcharged). In Sumatra sometimes your only option is minivans which are a bit expensive, but the roads and low population density mean the big busses just don't move on certain routes. Takengon to Ketambe goes through Gunung Leuser National Park and is perhaps the best road trip in SE Asia.

  Between backpacker centres there is a well-developed network of tourist buses and for a premium you can have comfort and direct routing. Prices are many times greater than local buses, but still cheap and save a lot of time and hassle. However in times of reduced tourist numbers, some services are suspended and off the beaten-track you just won't find them.

• Train services available only in Java and parts of Sumatra. Several trains run between Jakarta, Yogyakarta and Surabaya. Most trains are comfortable (AC sleepers), however prices for different classes and trains vary enormously. Take the train in Java as much as possible, go out of your way to take the train. Traffic is awful in West and Central Java to where a short journey on a map can take all day.

• Boats to get from island to island. Since you have to cross water, travel can be time consuming. PELNI, the state owned shipping company has numerous vessels, operating on about two week loop schedules. Ships are AC and first class cabins have TV and privacy. Timetables on line. There are places on yachts, normally heading from Bali to Komodo. Off the beaten track, inter-island exploring can be expensive and time consuming especially in Maluku (spice islands).

• Air, considering the difficulties and expense with getting far afield, internal flights become a very attractive option with an excellent network and some mainstream budget airlines. Some local airlines have questionable safety records. Prices don't vary much based on how far you book in advance, which is useful for more spontaneous travelers. Lion air (nearly always the cheapest and with the best availability) does not accept international cards and so you must go to a travel agent to book.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet. For a full list of regional guides and details on the LP, please click here.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Vary from island to island. Perhaps more so than usual, there is a big difference between off and on the beaten track. Ranging from Sundanese (West Java) being shockingly kind and friendly to the Javanese (who are too in less touristed places like the Dieng Plateau and Banyuwangi), but among the most unpleasant people in SE Asia around tourist centers like Yogyakarta and Probolinggo. Few would say that Indonesians are unfriendly, but this is far from a 'land of a thousand smiles'.

  • Other travellers: If you are a European, imagine Ibiza, if you're an American, imagine Cancún. This is how many (a particular type of person) see Bali. Outside Bali, typical South East Asian travellers. In many parts of Indonesia you will find yourself happily alone.

• Tourist factor: Bali and surrounding islands are extremely well trodden - 9/10, most other areas 7/10 - 5/10.
  
  Many of Indonesia's nicer destinations are slowly finding their way into the mainstream with more tourists and better connections in the same way as the Thai islands. A perfect example is the tiny Gilli Islands off Lombok, once an off-the-beaten track reserve of backpackers and a solid feature on the South East Asian trail. These islands despite being fairly close to Bali required a lengthy (long day) journey from Bali to Lombok, bus within Lombok and then second ferry. The three islands had rustic accommodation, perfect beaches and were a true get away from the worst of Bali.
  
  Today the islands are accessible with ease by direct (although expensive) fast boats making even day trips possible and are suffering the same fate as parts of Bali. Such is unfortunately synonymous with not just Indonesia, but the whole of South East Asia which one day might look like Pattaya, Phuket or Kuta or everywhere there is a nice beach and easy connections.
  
  Still such notes sound sour and there is always fresh ground to be broken in South East Asia and especially elsewhere.

• Accommodation: Accommodation can be basic on remoter islands and quality/price can depend largely on demand (season and local holidays/travellers). For the most part you can find somewhere to stay cheaply and with ease. That said Indonesia (outside of Bali) competes with the Philippines and Cambodia for the worst budget accommodation in SE Asia, often rooms are dingy, dirty and had bucket showers. Places with more international tourists definitely raise standards and lower prices. It's advisable to book ahead for the cheapest rooms because they are often snapped up by domestic tourists.

  • Hot water: Won't be available in cheaper rooms

  • Average cost: As little as US$5, average US$10-15. AC will increase this substantially.

• Communications: Internet on most main islands, including some very fast connections and Wi-Fi in many mid-range hotels and cafes/restaurants - especially in parts of Java and Bali.

• Media: (Indonesia varies a lot due to its sheer scale)

  • Books: Many bookshop in Bali and major towns in Java and Sumatra. Wide-range of international magazines also easy to find.

  • TV: In more expensive hotels. Movies played in restaurants and bars in tourist areas.

  • Film: Fascinating windows into Indonesia's recent history are the book/film: The year of living dangerously and the shocking/stunning documentary: The Act of Killing.

• Food: Indonesian cooking is distinct within the region and good street food is easy to find. Chicken, shrimp and peanut sauces feature heavily. Eating decently is never really a problem and fresh fruit juices are abundant (including avocado with chocolate sauce). Indonesian food is almost always excellent with tons of different flavours.

  Recommended is bubur ayam for an Indonesian breakfast and everyone should try Masakan Padang, in Bali nasi Babi guling is another must try for carnivores. We could really go for some martabak manis right now!

  • 

    Vegetarians: Fine-ish, look for 'temple meat' which is Tofu or Gado-gado which is a traditional dish of vegetables served with a peanut sauce. It should be noted that strict vegetarians will struggle as prawn/shrimp is used as a base for many sauce and prawn crackers are often added to the top of dishes. You can find some vegetarian restaurants and Ubud (central Bali) in particular will cater to all diets including vegans and health freaks. Outside of Bali the concept does not really exist  'Tidak daging' is Indonesian for no meat.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Can be hard work with tons of hassle in major tourist destinations especially in Bali. More relaxed off the beaten track.

  • Women alone: Normally okay, be careful and remember this is a Muslim nation. Mild harassment is common, but not a major problem. It's easy to say you are married and dress a little conservatively.

• Local poisons for the body: Weed is easily available in Sumatra, especially near the Gayo highlands in southern Aceh where most of the country's supply is grown. While trekking to see orang-utan a guide was eager and happy to arrange some. Magic mushrooms are legal and openly sold around Tuk Tuk in Lake Toba. In Kuta/Lombok, you will be offered plenty of illegal substances including scary stuff to avoid like meth and heroin. Despite being a Muslin nation, beer is found everywhere.

  Rating: 7.5/10

Intro: Malaysia (coupled with Singapore) is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit in South-East Asia. Described by some as Thailand for grown ups. It can be described as buoyant and wealthy with a cultural infusion of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous groups that you just don't get in Thailand. The peninsular has good transport, jungle, beaches, culture and is a good chance to escape some of the Thailand crowds. Most travellers zip through, which is why others say that it is SE Asia's hidden jewel (although others might label it as dull after a long stay in Thailand/Indochina).

East Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak) is the 'Borneo' travellers speak of and is arguably more adventurous and fun - almost a different country. Tioman island and Sarawak's national parks feature excellent independent jungle adventures, none better than in the remote home of the world's second largest cave: Gunung Mulu NP. Mulu has the most beautiful rainforest in SE Asia, and Bako is full of interesting animals, beautifully diverse landscapes and feels like the edge of the world.

Malaysia is fairly developed and easy to travel in, but nowhere as exotic, unhinged or cheap as the likes of Indonesia or Thailand. Most visitors tend to stick to the big city lights of Kuala Lumpur or the colonial Penang and Cameron Highlands Hill Stations or the stunning (but slightly upmarket, however managed development (Thailand take note)) Langkawi.

Despite the very obvious attractions of the [Malaysian] peninsular, for many without the temples, bargain prices and nightlife of Thailand/Indochina, the favoured destination is the island of East Malaysia, which a offers the best of Malaysia: wildlife, caves, longhouses and Mt Kinabalu.

• Visa strategy: Free on arrival. Most Western nationalities can enter Malaysia without a visa, and are normally issued 30, 60, or 90 day entry permit stamps.

• Typical tourist trail: A dash from Thailand to Singapore. Normally taking in a national park (jungle train ride), a beach stop in Penang and the capital - KL. More and more travellers are flying to East Malaysia on the island of Borneo.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Malaysia like most of SEA is hot and humid all year. It's best to avoid the November to January rainy season on Peninsula Malaysia's East coast if you want to enjoy the beaches, but general travel is fine. The time to see turtles on the east coast is between May and September.

  Many of the east coast islands close from December to April during the wet season. This affects Tioman island less than Pulau Redang and Perhentian further north where the monsoon is worse. Tioman still has a few hotels and shops open in some villages at this time. Boats to other islands further north are suspended during the monsoon.

• Guide book: Any, not really vital unless off the beaten track. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here.

• Costs: $20-30 per day, normally good value, with collapse of the oil price and corruption scandals, now cheap than Thailand or Philippines. Time in big cities, drinking and beach resorts increases your need to spend. Sarawak is more expensive than the peninsula but it is still cheap and good value.

• Money: ATMs plentiful, but limited in East Malaysia. Credit card advances normally commission free and travellers cheques can normally be exchanged for a better rate than cash. Getting money off the beaten track on islands is tricky and it's worth stocking up before heading out.

Good buses, roads and trains, some routes (jungle railway) worth seeing. Of buses, there are four basic types, non-AC state, non-AC interstate and AC express (or VIP). Finding a bus going your way is normally easy, but most stop often en route. AC express buses are the fastest. Non-AC are good if you need to get on and off (i.e. a bit of spontaneous exploring). On trains students are entitled to a 50% discount making the fare comparable to buses. Ten or thirty day rail passes can be bought, but must be purchased outside the country. Both trains and buses make international connections to Thailand and Singapore with ease.

• Malaysia is also one of the only places in SEA where renting a car is a great idea and not too expensive.

• The Jungle Railway is a daily eastern line service which stops at every station (every 15-20 min or so) between Tumpat (close to the Thai border) and Gemas. It's 3rd class only so no air-con and no reservations, and has a tendency to linger in stations while other regular trains overtake. This service is most popular to travel to Taman Negara National Park (Jerantut) or the Perhentian Islands (closest station to Kota Bharu is Wakaf Bahru). It's a great name, and you see a lot of jungle, but less than when you are actually in the jungle itself.

• Getting to East Malaysia (Sarawak) is also easy and sometimes flying is cheaper than the normal road/water combinations. In Sarawak flights are either 100% necessary or just way cheaper and easier to get to the interior like Gunung Mulu or the Kelabit Highlands. Getting to national parks can be a problem in Sarawak because there is no public transport. Luckily it is super easy to hitchhike in Malaysia.

Comment: I think the site damns Malaysia with faint praise and overemphasizes the kind of boring perspective and doesn't give enough of the reasons why it is considered a hidden gem. I feel it has one of the most fascinating societies I have encountered and since people are curious, open and usually speak English the traveller can learn a lot about it. I feel like if Malaysia can get along peacefully and continue to coalesce into a more fully multicultural country then there is hope for the world. Independent hiking is also a serious highlight for more outdoorsy types (like me!). Malaysia is the only country in the region that produces maps of trails and marks them (not well enough in the Cameron Highlands, so well you feel like a moron in other places).

Travelers that thought Malaysia was kind of boring were often droll and uninterested themselves so they didn't pay enough attention to get what makes Malaysia fun and unique. You find a fair few backpackers that island hopped down from Thailand and found themselves where they don't really fit: in Malaysia versus beach party southern Thailand. - Trevin Blount, whom helped edit this section, many thanks to him.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: You notice instantly that Malaysians are a lot more diverse and more open than their Thai neighbours (in a genuine way at least - not only when you are buying something from them).

  • Other travellers: Typical backpacker types. Many older travellers. Away from the national parks near Miri and Kuching you don't  meet many other travelers in Sarawak.

• Tourist factor: 7/10

• Accommodation: You can find a cheap bed almost anywhere (except resort islands that have gone very up market). In tourist/transit bus and train stations, touts come with a photo and map of the guesthouse they represent. On beaches, Thailand style A-frame huts are hard to find and most accommodation is more expensive and aimed at package tourists. If you want an ultra-cheap time on a picture perfect developed beach, head to the Philippines, Indonesia or Thailand. Nevertheless quality does make up for the higher prices in many instances.

  • Hot water: Fine, limited in jungle areas and ultra-cheap places.

  • Average cost: $15-20 (up to $30 in Kuala Lumpur or Langkawi)

• Communications: Widespread Internet

• Media: New book shops in very civilised KL, no real traveller scene, so limited second hand books, but plenty first hand.

• Food: There are as many different cuisines as there are combinations of Malaysians. There is Malay, Chinese, Indian and different combinations of all the different subgroups too (Malay-Punjabi, Malay-Teochew). Recommend are all laksa (especially Laksa Sarawak, Roti Canai and gorging in Georgetown.

  • Vegetarians: Fine, good variety

• Local poisons for the body: Alcohol is easily available in Malaysia and it is definitely not expensive. Do as the locals do and buy a bottle of liquor and drink it with some mixers. Beer is relatively expensive because the duty is 3 ringgit per container of alcohol and does not change based on the size of the container or strength of the beverage. Bars are damn expensive.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited

  • Women alone: Not really a problem

  Rating:7/10

Intro: The military are back. In 2021 they staged a coup d'état and replaced the democracy that had opened Myanmar back to tourists and global acceptance. We or any one we know have not visited since and cannot tell how the below may have changed. It looks likely that some of the previous dark sides of tourism in Myanmar and restrictions will return.
Burma or Myanmar (Me-an-mar) - which we should probably now refer to it by - is a land of wonders, gentle culture and welcoming smiles.

With the new found political acceptability of tourism (pre 2021), relaxed sanctions and [slow] process of change tourism had rocketed in what is Southeast Asia's largest mainland country. Possibly filling sleepy historic towns and villages with ugly concrete hotels, bars selling 'buckets' to gap-years and locals become tourist jaded. The speed of development these days in Yangon is frantic and land crossings by foreigners are now permitted, you'll find Wi-Fi, ATMs and banana pancakes - all recently non-existent in a place where even getting a Coke meant it was imported and internet was banned for most. If you have not visited Burma and enjoy the vibe of travel in South East Asia - get there as soon as you can.

• Typical tourist trail: Yangon (Rangoon), Mandalay, Bagan (Pagan), Inle Lake and back to Yangon. Off the beaten-track you could try - Hsipaw, Mawlamyine, Hpa-an, Pathein, Kengtung and many others.

• Dangers: If you can get there successfully (restricted area), the Shan state has Burmese and Thai Guerrillas present. Watch out for the Burmese new year (March-April) - not only will you be sprayed with water, but everything grinds to a halt and transport gets booked solid. There are numerous other restricted areas away from the tourist heartland of which permits to visit can be applied for in Rangoon at the MTT office.

  Getting there & around:

  Getting around: By road, getting South or West of Rangoon or to the far North is difficult and will require some serious adventure, normally riding in trucks. To avoid very bumpy and windy buses or pick-up truck rides, split the cost of a taxi, between four. Boat travel is available from Bagan to Mandalay or vice versa. There are trains, but slow, uncomfortable and dirty on limited routes - buses are better value.

  There are now 9 airlines: (including) Air Mandalay, Air Bagan, Air KBZ, Yangon Airways and Myanmar airways. Note that Mandalay airport is a one hour drive from Mandalay and if there's one route you might want to do overland it's the Mandalay - Bagan route (using Monywa as a stopover). Some airlines do have air passes for sale, which offers a small saving compared to booking flights individually and has to be booked in advance.

  Getting there: Air Asia is probably the cheapest route in from Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur though you may get a good deal with Thai or other airlines for the long haul trip. There are now connections from Kunming to Mandalay and Air Asia flies Bangkok to Mandalay which allows you to do a loop rather than backtracking to Yangon. Other options are from Bangladesh, Delhi, Qatar and Singapore.

  Almost all land borders are closed to Bangladesh and Laos. The land borders to Thailand is open (and so is the Indian one with plenty of permits on both sides of the border) but - essentially this is a fly-in, fly-out destination. Most people loop Yangon and back, but since there are flights out of the country both from Yangon and Mandalay it's better to start in one and finish in the other to cut down on travel.

  It's now possible to go by road from Tachilek (opp Mae Sai) to Kengtung. Permits are not needed, just the full visa. Getting to Taunggyi and on to Mandalay on via this means is open to which report you read - knowing Burma, I wouldn't bank on doing it - this is the Shan State and to leave the country this way would require a permit for the area. The road is in a bad condition and the trip takes a good while and energy.

Slowly Myanmar had been changing for the better. In November 2010 the regime held a general election, admittedly heavily circumscribed but the first in two decades. It then released the opposition leader and Nobel laureate, Aung San Suu Kyi. A formal transfer from military to civilian rule took place in 2011. No one doubts that the soldiers are still in charge, but things were changing... but too fast for the military who lost heavily in a 2020 election and then staged a coup d'état regaining total control and then brutally crushing the protests and general strike that followed - and still in some form continues.

In mid-2014 Myanmar joined the ranks of countries moving visa applications online. Getting a visa is easy and simple due to the new one-line process. Approval takes about 72 hours and costs US$50 which you pay for by credit card. The visa is valid for 28 days and the visa approval you get on line is valid 3 months. You take that approval to your arrival point and get your entry stamp there. The system works well. The website is:  http://evisa.moip.gov.mm/

Myanmar has international ATMs in every tourist destination (Yangon, Bago, the Golden Rock, Inle Lake, Mandalay, and Bagan). You should also take a little cash and make sure any you carry is USD cash in good condition of new designs (e.g. post 2009 $100 bills) - this is covered in detail in the LP and cannot be stressed enough. Some banks in Yangon and Mandalay accept Euros and the Singapore Dollar but USD is definitely the safest option. Travellers cheques are pretty useless. Kyat from an ATM makes life much easier that in days gone by.

It is worth noting that ATMs charge ~$5 per transaction in addition to the charges your bank makes and the poor exchange rates you can get. So if you don't bring some cash, it is possible to pay ~$10 to withdraw $20 for that final withdrawal for the taxi to the airport. 

There is no reason to change money into FECs (pronounced feck) as they trade at the same rate as the USD. In the past you had to change USD (around 200) into Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECs) when you enter the country - this is no longer enforced. The FEC rule has been abolished, but they are still legal tender (at less than face value) and officials may keep up pretences for all those bribes to keep flowing in.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot or wet all year round. It is well worth planning your trip to avoid the worst of the heat (March to May). October to February would be best, Yangon is pleasant, in the interior it can get a little cold during the night at higher altitude.

• Costs: Admission fees which are foreigner priced add up (and btw go on the whole directly to the government - see right) and so do long distance taxi rides which are useful if you need to cut down on travel time and increase comfort - but on the whole it's generally cheap (however hotel prices can surprise during the peak season in popular destinations). $25-35 per day

• Tourist factor: On the beaten track 7-8/10, off it 3/10. Burma has quite a compact circuit and you should not expect to be alone (other backpackers and many tour groups) on the Rangoon-Mandalay-Bagan-Inle-Rangoon loop.

• Communications: Internet / Wi-Fi places are popping up all over the place but are often painfully slow. You can also buy a local SIM card - your home mobile may not roam.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Incredibly friendly and welcoming, hard not to feel sorrow for their situation.

  • Other travellers: Some awful package tourists, others generally nice guys. In recent years much more of an overflow of the banana pancake crowd.

• Accommodation: Many guest houses and hotels, try to find those that are locally owned. There are a few hostels in Yangon now, although these are far from cheap (~$15/bed). The recent surge in visitors, in popular destinations such as Mandalay, Bagan, Ngapali and Nyaung Shwe and Inle Lake places to stay do get already packed during high season. With this demand prices increase very steeply. Conversely out-of-season and off-the-beaten track, many places are empty, so always bargain - you should be able to get a good room for $20-$35 and a faction of this outside of tourist hubs. Prices are more expensive in Yangon, yet there are plenty of cheaper rooms available.

  • Hot water: Can be a problem if at the cheaper end

  • Average cost: $20-30

• Media:

  • Books: Some copies of Burmese Days floating around in Bagan, which is a good, if somewhat depressing read. There are, of-course, numerous great books written on the struggle for democracy in Burma, but these are best read before you go and not while there for obvious reasons. One to read on your trip might be, The Trouser People: A Story of Burma in the Shadow of the Empire. It's a mixture of a travelogue and historical book about Burma, the historical bit focusing on a explorer type called George Scott, (who brought his beloved game of football to Burma) about 100 years ago. It's a great read. The ISBN is 15824324

• Food: Pretty limited, but if you find it real Bamar food is great and as good as Thai food. Western style food is not done very well.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: There are plenty of things to get annoyed about, but the people themselves are never a concern. Very friendly, laid back culture although some limited hassle is starting to appear in Bagan and parts of Yangon.

  • Women alone: Fine

  Rating: 7.5/10

Miss at your peril: Bagan, people, culture and getting off the beaten track in Myanmar - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

Intro: Many say the Philippines just isn't South East Asia. Sure it's the only Catholic country in the region, an island nation (over seven thousand of them) which can't be 'just popped over the border to', English is widely spoken and of course it sits well away from a mainland and off any practical route. In fact the Philippines is every bit South East Asia - all the good bits. Great beaches, dramatic volcanoes, a colourful transport system, diverse culture (although much has been bleed dry by colonialism), hill tribe & jungle treks and stunning rice terraces. The only thing that really sets the Philippines apart from the likes of Thailand et al. is it is easier to find a bit to yourself. Having said this, since we first added this summary, the Philippines has change quite a bit with a huge influx of visitors and increased costs.

The Philippines is ultra-diverse, there's something for pretty much everyone (from swimming with Whale Sharks, cheap diving and forgotten beaches to good surfing, even better nightlife, hill tribes; the list goes on). Easy access, cheap tours are not as prevalent as elsewhere in the region - so getting to the best is not so easy. Very civilised in parts, fair value for money (when the Peso is weak) and the fact English is widely spoken is a massive bonus for many. Better suited to chilling in bars, malls and beaches than the type of adventure found in Indonesia or Northern Vietnam. In recent years and since we first fell in love with the place you do start to find the hordes of idiots that plague other parts of the region. Some say if you want Thailand or Bali without the culture and history that makes it enchanting head to the Philippines. Others are still smitten and want to get away from the SEA mainland and have a easy life. Alex Garland's was huge fan and to make up your own mind you need to visit. Mabuhay!

• Visa strategy: A three week visa is free on arrival for most nationalities. Extensions allowing you a total stay of two months cost around US$30 in Manila, Boracay, Cebu and many other places. Unless you are getting someone to organise it for you the hassle is less in the likes of Boracay or Baguio. Second extensions are more costly and regulations get stricter the longer you stay.

• Hiking: The mountains and rice terraces of north Luzon are a worthwhile alternative to the over-commercialised hill tribe treks of northern Thailand. Banaue/Sagarda can be somewhat of a pain to reach, so you will probably want to make the most of your time there with a two to three day DIY trek. When it comes to the most attractive (and therefore most popular routes) guides can easily be arranged, but not as essential as locals will tell you the way. You will find some basic places to stay if making a loop from the spectacular terraces in Batad. Private transport is however necessary in many cases as public jeepneys are not so common on the more remote roads. Away from mountain provinces, hiking needs plenty of stamina and even more water as it's going to be hot.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot almost all year around, there is however a highland area to escape to where, in winter months, it can get fairly chilly.

• Typical tourist trail: Virtually all flights land in Manila (although you can enter the country in Cebu or regionally at the ex. USA airbase of Angeles/Clark - 2-4 hours North of Manila). Manila like any big Asian city has nightmare traffic and heavy pollution. From there on, there is no tourist trail as such. Many travellers will leave by air for Cebu (onto Bohol) or Boracay. Many will bus north to Baguio and onto Banaue and further north. For those on limited time the closest resort/dive site is Puerto Galera.

• Costs: US$30-45, depending on your passion for Scuba, beer and AC rooms. Heading into rural areas you will be hard pushed to spend even half of this. It is worth noting that the Philippines was previously a great value destination (now Indonesia, Vietnam and even Malaysia can be better value) and most recent report/experiences complain of poor value (especially Manila and major beach resorts).

• Money: ATMs plentiful in any large town. However don't get caught out by lack of ATMs at Clark Airport (where inter-regional budget flights sometimes land and you'll need some cash for the two-four hour bus ride to Manila) and on Palawan. Most hard currency will change in big cities and tourist enclaves. US dollars as good as Filipino Peso.

There are problems in the Philippines that are occasionally splashed across western media. In a very simplistic form problems emanate from the large southern island of Mindanao which is the country's largest Muslim enclave. Travel in some parts of Mindanao is safe, but anyone heading this way will of course do some careful research, since there have been several kidnapping incidents of late.

There are a number of areas on Mindanao and islands off it which should be considered no go areas. On the whole, the Philippines is safe and authorities are pro-active to tackle any threat including the few minor bombings that do happen from time to time. A quick visit to your country's foreign office site will give you much more accurate (if slightly alarmist) current info.

Swimming with Whale Sharks: Just off the coast of a small village called Donsol is one of the only places in the world where Whale Sharks can be anything close to guaranteed and where, if you want, you can swim with them (scuba not allowed). Donsol is about an hour or two south, of Legazpi, about 14hrs bus trip from Manila, or by ferry head to Masbate Town (three sailings a week from Cebu (overnight)), connect to smaller craft (1hr) and then less than 30mins to Donsol. All trips must be arranged through a government-run centre (15mins past Donsol)). They are the only people who can arrange a boat and crew. You can rent mask, snorkel, etc. You have to pay a registration fee and the whole experience will set you back something like US$70 per person (based on two sharing - cheaper if more). The price is more likely to go up than down in the future and you are by no means guaranteed to see anything.

A trip would normally start at about 9am and run until 1pm. You don't go far off the Donsol coast. The water is far from clear and a spotter will look out for shadows on the water (a sunny day makes his job much easier). If you have only a little bit of luck you should see at least one, but you could be swimming alongside for less than 10 seconds before it dives. Visibility is not brilliant. On a really good day, you could see five or six and get a few minutes trying to keep up with one of these enormous creatures. It's a lot of money for the Philippines and you could see nothing; conversely, if you have the luck it is a fantastic and unique experience.

PADI courses and dive trips are available in all tourist beach resorts, Puerto Galera being a great place to get certified. A PADI 3/4 day course will cost between US$250-300, instruction can be found in most European languages, Japanese/Korean without problem. Dives including equipment run at around US$25-35. Coral will look damaged in some places, but for the most part you will be spoilt, especially if you are keen to travel a little away from big resorts. There are also some great wreck dives. Diving is to the Philippines what trekking is to Nepal. It's cheap, easy and among the world's best.

What to buy: The Filipino obsession with 'malling' takes many visitors by surprise. This may be one of the best performing economies in the region and the retired colonial power of America obviously has a huge influence but still the malls of Manila and a few other places are huge (even by American standards), ultra-numerous and of an amazing variety. Shops range from local clothing discounters up through Filipino retailers like Oxygen, Bench and Human, onto international brands such as Top Shop, Gap, Zara and M&S, right up to the likes of North Face, Armani, Diesel and Ralph Lauren - to name a few. Basically everything is here.

Manila is a shopaholic's paradise and if the Peso is weak, it's good value. In Manila, for quality brands the Powerhouse is a first good stop, SM malls are also huge (many cities) and for one of the biggest, Manila's Mega Mall or the new Mall of Asia. Try not being overwhelmed by any of these. ATMs are plentiful and all stores accept debit/credit cards. There is also a good range of souvenirs and for those who play the guitar, they are cheap/easy to pick up.

Comment: As a Filipino, I must commend you for your good narrative about the Philippines. Well-balanced and enthusiastic. Your publication does not suffer from bias by over rating Philippine neighbours, a practice common among many travel publications. Wholesome tourists normally leave the Philippines with lasting memories of our beautiful landscapes, rich culture and history, and more importantly our people.