What to pack / Where to go / Before you go / Country summaries / On the road / Resources / Images / Links / Home

-

Australia & the Pacific | Central America | South America | North America | Southern Asia | Northern Asia | South East Asia | Indochina | North Africa | East Africa | Southern Africa | West Africa | The Middle/Near East | Guides & Other Books

-

Iran, the LP way [i] Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel country specific advice, tips and info for: The Middle EastIsrael, Iran, Jordan, Lebanon, Syria and Turkey.

» It is worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based on - or for other travel advice and site home head for http://travelindependent.info

 

Ramadan

A quick note about Ramadan. The 9th and most important month in the Islamic Calendar. During this time Muslims abstain from eating, drinking or smoking until after sundown on each day. As a traveller of course you don't need to follow this, but some Muslims appreciate that you don't take meals or smoke in public places. Many restaurants and cafes won't open until after sundown and public transport may be less frequent, shops close earlier before sunset and the pace of life is generally slower. So travel can certain be a bit more difficult, but Ramadan is no major hindrance to travel and certainly not in moderate Islamic areas/countries.

Ramadan 2008: Sep 1 - Sep 29; 2009: Aug 21 - Sep 19. Note the festival of Eid ul-Fitr is held after the end of Ramadan and may last several days. Exact dates will depend on astronomical observations and may vary from country to country.

Editorial...

Middle East Map» Turkey is a real highlight, but that's only half the story. Heading into the Middle East, whether South into Syria and Jordan or East to Iran is not only possible, but (visa hassle aside) easy, safe and ultra welcoming. Don't buy into the whole 'war on terror', 'anti-west', 'anti-British/America' hype, with due care the countries featured on this page and many others in the Middle East are quite safe, friendly and to be honest, even without the current lack of crowds - amazing.

What needs to be made very clear is where the majority of the Muslim world is ardently anti America based on its foreign policy (much like any sapient person), they are not anti Americans or westerner in general. The way the loony faction of Islam is operating bombing easy targets, terrorism can and does happen almost anywhere in the world and has never been targeted directly at backpackers.

Terrorism can and does happen almost anywhere in the world. You might get some funny looks or snide comments, but these are no more different that being called a gringo in Mexico and are easily ignored or explained away. I've travelled through this area myself many times during and after 9/11 and the Iraq wars, have experienced first hand and received several e-mailed updates from travellers, all reporting an amazing lack of crowds, great friendly people and no more problems that you would experience in many parts of Asia.

 

 

 

 

»    The Middle East, inc. Turkey & Iran (for Egypt see North Africa)

» Israel and the occupied territories

  • The Golden Dome - JerusalemIntro: Politically incorrect, expensive and at the wrong place/time - damn dangerous. Visitors to Israel virtually stopped during the last nadir, but things started to stabilise a little and tourist numbers climbed dramatically. The Palestinian elections, Hamas' victory, a subsequent suicide bomb in Tel Aviv - Israeli retaliation, and it's business as usual again? Who knows, but it's easy to understand why many are a little nervous about visiting. Coupled with this Israel can be a little raw and unwelcoming, but does nevertheless contain one of the world's most incredible places, Jerusalem. Jerusalem is quite simply amazing and worth braving a terrorist attack for any day. Don' t let terrorism scare you too much, the risks of injury is far below most bus travel in Asia. Many of Israel's sights just blow your mind, when reflected on. Tel Aviv has a laid-back beach culture to rival Sydney or Rio and like many cities is totally secular: great parties, bars, hostels, hot guys/girls... - all things you might not of expected. This new country is fascinating to get an understanding of and has a history like no other.

    • Highlights: Jerusalem, Jerusalem, Jerusalem* the rest pails in comparison. Few places in the world inspire quite as much passion as Jerusalem (Yerushalayim in Hebrew, Al-Quds in Arabic), the 3000-year-old capital of Israel. As mentioned in the intro Tel Aviv has a lot to offer if you have time to kick back. And finally if you believe you can travel safety, well a visit is the West Bank, it's certainly worth the comparison. For those with the time and money there is plenty more to see and do.

    • Lowlights: Eilat, politics and that paranoid feeling. Some biblical sights such as Nazareth and Armageddon are disappointing

  • Visa strategy: Visa on arrival for as long as the person on duty feels like giving (or so it seems). By visiting Israel you may not enter (on the same passport) all Middle Eastern, Gulf or North African countries, apart from Jordan, Turkey, Egypt and Morocco. So that's: Iran, Lebanon, Libya, Saudi-Arabia, Syria, UAE, Qatar and Yemen. Oman denies entry to Israeli nationals, but not to those who have visited. See avoiding that passport stamp you don't want to the below.

  • Tourist factor: Depends on current situation, during the entifada and times of headline trouble - 3/10

  • What to take: An open mind and a knowledge of the situation that exists between Israel and Palestine

  • Getting around: Very good, but a little expensive public buses. Shared taxis/buses in West Bank and Gaza.

  • Typical tourist trail: Jordan to Jerusalem to Egypt via Eilat

  • Dangers: Terrorism is a serious danger. Avoid crowded areas, travel in and out of occupied territories and visits at particular times of tension. A stay just in the old city of Jerusalem, plus a visit to Eilat, Dead Sea, Tiberias and Tel Aviv, is not the end of the world and is probably safer (as previously stated) than bus travel in Asia.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Jerusalem gets cold in the winter, as with the rest of the region temperatures soar in the summer making sight seeing on foot uncomfortable

  • Money: ATMs
  • Costs: Israel is expensive, compared to surrounding countries - minimum US$40 a day

  • Guide book: Let's Go or LP

  • Accommodation: Hostels, make sure you bargain and choose carefully, most are full of day labours and have a very lived in feel. Hostels in Jerusalem are the cheapest. Get used to big dorms if you want to save money.

    • Average cost: US$40-50 double room in hostel. Dorms a third to quarter of this price

  • Communications: Brilliantly fast, but quite expensive internet, many international call centres
  • Media:

    • Books: Almost all in Hebrew. Good English newspapers and magazines selection

    • TV: Subtitled TV and films in hostels, many cinemas

  • Food: It is expensive to eat out, your best bet is to cook for yourself in hostels

    • Vegetarians: Fine

Avoiding that passport stamp you don't want

By having evidence of a visit to Israel in your passport, you may not enter (on the same passport) all Middle Eastern, Gulf or North African countries, apart from Jordan, Oman, Turkey, Egypt and Morocco.

There is only one way to not have your passport show evidence of a visit to Israel and that is to fly in and fly out, requesting no stamp on both entry and exit. Entering by any overland crossing, except maybe the ferry to/from Greece or Cyprus, and you will have an exit or entry stamp of the bordering nation i.e. Egypt or Jordan that will be a tell-tale sign. Or in the case of the King Hussein Peace Bridge to Jordan from the West bank, no stamp at all that is equally a give away. You can still request Israeli officials not to stamp your passport at any crossing, it just won't do any good, considering the entry/exit stamp from the country you are entering from or leaving to. Don't believe what other travellers tell you about the Peace Bridge crossing or asking for no stamps, it will not work - I have personally seen travellers turned away at the Syrian border with a valued visa for Syria, but evidence of a trip to Israel.

If you have two passports (i.e. you have dual nationality), this can be very handy for many things, but in the case of avoiding an Israeli stamp, you will end up with one passport with an entry stamp from say Jordan and an exit stamp in your other passport and off course the Syrians or whoever will likely notice. The only other way is to get a new passport, but don't try reporting it lost in Egypt since the embassies all know this trick and are less than happy about it. Syrian border officials will find it strange that everybody losses his or hers passport in say Jordan? Don't forget that the Syrian border guards are allowed to search your bag, looking for proof (money, hotel bill, etc) that you have been in Israel.

Sometimes mentioned and likely to work, if affordable/practical, is to fly from Tel Aviv to Amman, Jordan. Thereby getting an airport entry stamp from Jordan. Then take a bus to Damascus, continuing your journey. The only fool proof way to do a grand tour through the ME and include Israel - is to conclude it there. The only route overland is from the North to the south, if you want to conclude Israel in it. Otherwise fly in and out of Israel avoiding stamps you don't want that way.

E-mailed comments

  • Visit Palestine'I recently travelled to Israel and was lucky enough to spend 5 weeks there. I travelled from the very tip of Israel, from the Golan Heights, down to Eilat and the border with Egypt. For a county, 1/3rd the size of Tasmania in Australian or roughly the size of New Jersey, Israel was a melting-pot of so many cultures. From walking through the Arab shook in Old Jerusalem, to the visiting the 'Taj Mahal rivaling' Baha'i Gardens in Haifa. I watched the sun rise at Mount Masada, and the sun set over the Mediterranean Sea in Tel-Aviv. For cheap 8 Shekel ($2.50 AUD) shots, visit the Budah Bar in the 'old port' in Tel-Aviv. If your after a truly biblical view of Jerusalem, a city holy to the three main monotheistic religions, head up to the 'Haas Prominade'. Also, while in Jerusalem, for the best 'no-risk to health'  Shwarama, visit Rehov King George (Rehov=Street). However, as a general rule of thumb, the least clean shops usually have the best tasting Shwarama. Accommodation, especially around the Old City is quite expensive. The YMCA there had rooms from around $70US from memory. If you are near the Western Wall (The Kotel) and have a craving for a smoked-salmon bagel, check-out 'Bonkers Bagels' - from memory 15 Shekels will get you a bagel with around 3/4 of an inch of cream cheese and smoked-salmon. Don't be put off by loud Americans questioning the change given back to them, that's just them. Now, if you want to join the Madonna inspired Kabbalah movement and giving charity at the same time, buy some red string from the beggar woman asking you for 'Tzdakah' -meaning 'charity' in Hebrew. Visiting Israel for me was a life changing event. For those concerned about the security situation, you really must asked yourself - wouldn't you feel safer if when entering a mall, you knew that everyone had to pass through airport like security, rather than simply just walking in - which is most likely the case at your local mall. Happy trekkn'!- Stefan, Melbourne Australia'
  • 'I have enjoyed looking through this site.  I have one comment- I have travelled twice in the West Bank of Palestine. I have found people there to be incredibly kind, generous, and warm.  Families have invited me to sleep in their homes, whether in a city (like Nablus) or in refugee camps (like Balata and Askar) and it's difficult to not spend hours in peoples' homes drinking tea and coffee and just talking.  My experiences are not reflected in this site's comments on Palestinians and I want to let readers know'. - Matt

  • 'With respect to Israel there are a number of things you neglected to mention. The culture is different in the Middle East, many people confuse rudeness with different social customs. I have travelled the country extensively and have been invited to homes many times by strangers and abundantly fed. You also neglect not mention many of the the most fascinating places in Israel to see such as Banias in the north, the Judean Desert with the different Wadis, the Negev, the Dead Sea, Masada, Caesaria. Some of these are not easy treks but if you missed them you missed out. If you did not see tourists I am shocked. There were many tourists around when I was travelling. I heard an abundance of Hebrew, English, French, Spanish, Italian, Korean, German....' - Benjamin

  • There is more to Israel than just Jerusalem. You need to focus more on Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv is one of the most laid-back, best beach culture cities I've ever seen. Totally SECULAR, great parties and bars, hot women, great set of hostels, etc. Tel Aviv rivals Rio and Sydney in terms of beach culture. Please highlight Tel Aviv, as there really is more to Israel than just Jerusalem. - Jay
  • People vibe: 

    • Locals: Many will admit, myself included, they nurse a dislike for Israelis, meeting so many in other parts of the world. Often incensed by their behaviour and dress. Kept awake by them at night and finding them on the whole rude and obnoxious. In fact many travellers meet so many Israelis abroad, one of the reasons to visit Israel is to see if there are any there! What is said about Israelis abroad is true, but you will had no real problem with Israelis in there own country, but a proportion can still be a little brash. Palestinian residents can be very friendly through to rude, it really depends on how far you get off the tourist trail.

    • Other travellers: There are few other backpackers in Israeli, at time of writing, but popular destinations always have a steady stream of tourists, notably during religious festivals.

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Everything stops from sun down Friday to sun down Saturday. Similarly on Friday in Gaza and the West Bank. Some hassle from desperate souvenir vendors in Jerusalem

    • Women alone: Fine, out-side of the occupied territories, Israeli women dress to impress

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Go to Dahab, Egypt

  • Rating 7.5/10, despite costs, just Jerusalem 9/10

* Miss at your peril: Jerusalem and other Holy Land sites - 'Highlight of Independent Travel

  -

 

 

» Iran

  • Intro: It's amazing that such a traveller's gem can induce such fear in so many people. Give it a try mention you are even thinking of going to Iran to friends and relatives and watch the reaction. Listen to them speak... 'but there are terrorists there' (no that's Iraq (not to mention most of the world)), 'but women are second class citizens' (no that's Saudi Arabia - there are actually more women than men in University education), 'didn't they blow up those Buddhist statutes' (no, that was the Taliban in Afghanistan)... it goes on. The ignorance Iran inspires can almost be painful. Even well travelled individuals get slightly nervous at even the name. There is absolutely no reason to be. The problem stems from many sources. First up is that most of us know nothing about Iran other than what we heard about the revolution, hear in the media and what a strict Islamic government chooses to present. The other fault we all make is filling in the gaps ourselves. Iraq to the left, Pakistan and Afghanistan to the right (humm, not exactly the most instantly appealing destinations), it's natural to assume Iran is somewhere in the middle. The reality is that even the most widely travelled and open-minded visitor is likely to have preconceived views shattered and find a country that truly is a marvel.

Expect some of the most welcoming and truly hospitable people in the world (although that term is used far too often, here it is appropriate). Expect open-minded individuals who are about a millions miles away from religious fanatics who will be delighted to further your surprise in finding out the true nature of the place and go out of their way to help you. Expect some of the best value travel in the world. Expect virtually no hassle (this isn't Egypt you know). Expect to feel extremely safe and welcomed and finally, expect to find a country where you can walk beside beautiful mountains streams below towering snow caps (even go skiing) one day, forests and rice paddies the next, harsh deserts the next and historic oases the next... the list goes on.

Safe, civilised, cheap and reasonably efficient Iran is one of the last hidden gems of this nature. There is too much to share in a small intro like this so if you are even thinking about going it's best to pick up the excellent LP for some more reading. To summarise in a few words: 'Iran - there's nothing to be scared of.'

  • Highlights: Esfahan*, Masule, Yazd*, Chogo Zambil, forgotten and well preserved history, atmospheric bazaars & tea shops, the gentle honest hospitality and getting off the beaten track*

  • Lowlights: Food can become trying after a while especially if a vegetarian. Bam can still be visited but most of the old city is in ruins (even more than before). The climate can also pose a problem with big variations in temperature through the country, plus (in parts) a baking summer and freezing winter.

Visa strategy

Getting a visa is a hassle, but it's not as bad as many think or like to make out. If you are on a tour you will have no problem (Americans will pretty much always have to travel this way), but do yourself a favour and don't visit on a tour - there's no need. Independently there are three approaches you can take. The first a transit visa that you shouldn't have too much problem getting (with some delay) even en-route in a neighbouring country. This gives you five days to transit, which will allow you to see at least something. The days of extending these visas ended a long time ago. You will not get an extension and the taste of Iran you get is more than likely going to make you wish you had a full visa.

Iran VisaMoving on to full visas, you can approach this two ways. One, apply directly to an embassy yourself. Most nationals from countries with okay relations with Iran should get a visa this way with an extended wait, a few forms and a fairly costly charge. The second method and best if you are from a nation that doesn't have that rosy relations with Iran or if you want to pick your visa up on route during a big trip, is to use an Iran based agency to give you a reference code. This authorization code will be sent to an embassy of your choice and ensure you get your visa with minimum delay. You still pay the standard fee and there's no 100% guarantee you will get a visa with this method any more than the first. Such agencies would be www.key2persia.com and www.irainianvisa.com both charge around EUR30 on top of the standard visa fee which varies by nationality. You may well be asked to provide an itinerary, but don't worry about this: in fact you could make it up, as it won't be checked. The process will take at least a few weeks, and if you get turned down by one agency, try another. Once in Iran, in the right towns (Esfahan/Shiraz), visa extensions are possible.

Much is written about visas being easier to obtain in this embassy, harder in that embassy, or about how, because of a diplomatic spat/agreement they are now harder or easier. There is some truth in these reports, but at the end of the day it's a lottery so just buy a ticket and don't worry too much. Remember if you get knocked back once, try again.

Women will need to wear a headscarf in the visa photos supplied and not showing loads of cleavage is probably good idea too! But don't worry too much about this, as long as most of your hair, ears and chest are covered. Reports of having to wear a head scarf in the photo in your passport are nonsense. If you are a Muslim and have a Muslim name in your passport, forget all this, you should get a visa with ease.

  • Dangers and annoyances: Virtually none Iran is actually a remarkably safe country, but strict religious laws do apply - however, these serve more than hinders travellers. Photography of government buildings is illegal and unlike in other places, taken seriously. There are reports of fake policemen scams (full details in LP), but this is no longer really a major problem with some attempts being laughable - demand ID or that you go back to your hotel, otherwise just walk away, you are in no real danger. Around the Afghanistan, Iraq and Pakistan border things are a little different and care is required

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Autumn and spring are pleasant and would be considered the high season, but a sweater is still needed, especially on draughty night buses. Winter is surprisingly cold with towns like Masule getting cut off by snow - skiing is cheap and possible near Tehran up to about mid-April - and even in Spring/Autumn, when the centre of the country is pleasant northern and high lying areas can be quite chilly. Conversely, in the summer most of the country roasts, but in the interior the dry heat is not too bad. Even in November it's unpleasantly hot and sweaty on the Gulf coast, making mid-winter the only bearable time to visit here.

  • Typical tourist trail: Tehran, Yazd, Esfahan, Shiraz/Persepolis (Purse-Po-Lis)

  • Costs: The cost of travel in Iran has been creeping up slowly over the years and is now much more expensive than it was five/ten years back when one could find a black market exchange rate and when fuel subsidies were greatest. Fuel is slowly getting more expensive thereby increasing costs (mind you, it's still silly cheap). That said Iran is still a bargain and travel on as little as €10-15 is quite possible: however you will live much more comfortably on €20-25. Internal flights cost about €30-50 for a leg like Esfahan to Shiraz. Entry fees are now down to the same level Iranians pay in most places, making them pretty cheap. There is definitely still some foreigner pricing, but it's going the way of the dinosaurs.

  • Money: There are plenty of ATMs in Iran, but you won't be able to use any of them. Likewise travellers cheques and credit cards are no good. It really is a cash only trip with USDs and EUROs being best, but you can change YEN, GBP, CHF with no problem in larger cities. Some carpet and expensive souvenir shops will let you use a credit card that they authorise in Dubai or elsewhere. All this changed after the 1995 USA trade embargo and is likely to change again if the sanctions are lifted. The currency is Rial of which you get a fair few for your dollar/euro. Notes are small denominations. Confusingly, verbal prices are generally quoted in tuman not rials, making things sound one tenth of their real price. If something sounds too cheap it's probably in tuman. 10,000 rial (around a dollar) = 1,000 tuman or normally one finger held up. Having a small calculator on you makes arranging prices much easier and avoids confusion. Arabic numbers are used, but everyone understands Latin script numbers (e.g. 1,2,3).

  • People vibe: It's widely reported and very true that the people you meet in Iran will be amongst the friendliest in the world. However, don't expect to rock up in Esfahan or Tehran and see all smiles and get invited into someone's home straight off. It might happen, but these places see a fair number of tourists. If you want a true Iranian experience, the formula is simple: get off the beaten track. If you have time, both the North East and North West are - despite lacking big pulls - beautiful and interesting. In certain areas you will come across many Afghans and Turkmens. There are very few travellers who will not be totally blown away by the genuine warmth and hospitality of the vast majority of Iranians and even the most open minded are often quite perplexed that their preconceived image was so very, very wrong.

    • Locals: There is little hassle with locals, Iranians on the whole are good tempered and trustworthy.

    • Other travellers: Compared on a global scale, expect very few independent travellers: nevertheless there are still a fair few, who are normally at least over 25 and from European countries. Also, at main attractions expect a lot of large package tour groups, particularly in peak season these groups are normally German, Spanish/Italian, French or Japanese.

  • Tourist factor: On the beaten track 6/10, off 2or3/10

  • Accommodation: Cost of accommodation, as in most places worldwide, depends on your standard. Iran is definitely a country where you can find very cheap places to stay, but you get what you pay for. Hotels will normally always have twin beds. If a couple, expect no problem if you're not married (this is assumed - not having the same second name or a ring makes no difference).

    • Hot water: Hot water and heating is common and works well

    • Average cost: On average €20 gets you something pretty descent. Double this for a good standard. Halve it for a basic place. Most hotels have a dual price lists, one for Iranians and one for travellers, so if a price looks a bit high, bargain away.

  • Communications: Internet is fairly plentiful in most towns, although pretty slow. In the biggest towns you can find call centres if you look hard. Most European mobile phones pick up an Iranian network.

  • Health: High medical standards with most doctors speaking English: consultation fees cheap. Plenty of pharmacies with ultra cheap prices on generic medicine. There is a slight malaria risk depending on the location and time of year. In extreme summer heat, dehydration is of course a danger. On the plus side, tap water is safe to drink almost everywhere.

What to wear: Female dress code

This is the one issue that worries most visitors to Iran - well female at least - and for little reason. Please, please forget ideas of having to cover up totally in black or of locals scrutinising you every time you step out on the street. There's a huge range of what women wear in Iran, from the all black clador numbers to outfits that would not seem out of place in Europe with head scarves barely hanging on. It comes as a surprise to many visitors to discover how far the dress code is pushed in places.

There are 3 simple rules that are easy to follow and will pose you no problem. 1) Cover your head, neck and ears with the sort of scarf that's easy to find in any high-street store like H&M (you can buy another with ease in Iran). The technical name for this style of head covering is the shayla. It's fine to have a few inches of hair showing at the front. 2) You need to wear a light jacket (although this is the wrong word, really any top that is long), that covers your arms and your arse. In the winter you will appreciate of a thicker coat, in the summer a light cotton jacket (think of it as a long blouse) is better.

These garments are normally black or navy blue, but any colour is fine, They are easily available for about €10-30 and can look fairly stylish. The last kinda rule 3) would be make sure your arms and chest our covered. Showing a wrist or ankle is fine and so are sandals (although not that common). A long skirt is also fine, but not commonly seen, so trousers are better.

Dress code does vary somewhat, with places like northern Tehran and the ski slopes being the most relaxed, to Qom and Mashhad (religious centres), being understandably much more conservative. Okay words only works so far. For some images of what is typically worn by younger women and acceptable in Iran, click here - example 1 / example 2. Understandably this is tricky issue for many, but is no reason not to visit. Any questions get in touch. 

Apart from at a handful of religious monuments there is absolutely no reason to wear a clador (easily borrowed). A clador, for those unfamiliar with the term, literarily means 'tent'. It's often black and acts like a cape to totally hide form. It has no fastenings so needs to be held shut by teeth or hands all the time. Not to be confused with a purda (the total veil with only a slit for the eyes), which is rarely seen in Iran (only in parts). For more details on all styles of head covering see this excellent resource.

 

Getting around:

Getting around Iran is easy and brilliant value. Starting at the cheapest and going up: Buses come in several forms, from the standard Asia battered up type and service (ultra-cheap) to more flashy and comfortable Volvo style buses on key routes. Mini-buses run on shorter routes, but don't leave to a schedule. Taxis around towns seem a little pricey compared to other transport costs, but it all depends on your bargaining skills. For longer journeys taxis can easily be arranged and will allow you to travel in comfort, stop on the way and shave at least 20% off the journey time compared to buses. The going rate seems to be something along the lines of €0.04 - €0.10 per km, again depending on your bargaining skills. Normally, a hotel can help you with this.

Trains are a welcome luxury. Routes are limited, but tickets cheap (even for better classes). Key routes would be Tabriz to Tehran/Ahwaz. It's worth booking a day in advance. Flights are also good value, but can add up. Getting a handle on what routes are possible is not easy as guidebooks are is little help - visit a travel agent when you first arrive. All major towns are air-linked, flights can get full, but it really depends on the day, time of year (No Ruz) and frequency. If you're on a limited time schedule and not an ultra-low budget, a few internal flights work wonders.

  • Media:

    • Books: You will be able to find pretty dull English language newspapers and books in major towns. There are the odd news-stands selling copies of Time and Newsweek (although always out of date). That's it.

    • TV: Most hotels of an okay standard have a TV, although you are unlikely to get anything other than state television in Farsi (although live Premiership football is shown). In more expensive upper mid range hotels you might be lucky and get BBC World and CNN.

    • Movies: To view a few digital camera shot movies shot in Iran, click here. You'll need QuickTime (free download), and these files will take several minutes to load even with an ADSL connection.

  • Food: Eating can be somewhat difficult in Iran. Restaurants are seldom geared to tourists and signs/menus are mainly in Farsi. Food isn't that bad, with plenty of rice, yogurt and salad. Fish isn't too common and most dishes contain meat. There are plenty of pizza, and kebab/burger places around, but none are likely to excite your taste buds.

    • Vegetarians: Difficult, but not impossible. Salads, yogurt, rice and fresh fruit/veg are plentiful. Well stocked shops/bakeries will sell tins of fruit and snacks. Vegetarian pizzas are unusual, but can be had. Rice and mashed eggplant/aubergine dishes feature on most menus. It's easy to buy bread, cheese and salad material to make your own sandwiches.

  • Language: Farsi is spoken (not Arabic), although like Urdu in Pakistan, it's written in Arabic script. Street signs are excellent and are written in English/Farsi, as are most official signs. However, restaurants, cheap hotels etc. can be hard to locate with no Latin script signs. 'Hello' is the same as in Arabic, and the French for 'thank you' (merci) is commonly used Other than that, for those without language skills, getting your tongue around words and pronunciations is hard and even asking for a bus to somewhere like Qazvin can be a nightmare.

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Cigarettes and water pipes are cheap and easily available. Beer is also readily available (only it's always non-alcoholic and available in a curious array of flavours). Most of Europe's opium passes through Iran and there is a major drug problem, although as a traveller you are unlikely to come across it. Of course this is not the place to go breaking any laws or looking for a good time.

No Ruz

No Ruz is the Iranian new year celebrated for at least a week in Mid-April (spring equinox). Imagine this week as Christmas in the west: pretty much everything stops, shops close, transport and hotels get booked solid. No Ruz then continues in a fashion for a second week, with schools still off, and many people staying off work and visiting friends/relatives or taking a holiday. This is around the time of year many consider visiting and it's probably best to stay away if you can, but travel is possible especially in the second week (just stay away from Mashhad, Shiraz and Esfahan - unless you have a room booked and don't mind crowds).

 

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Apart from curious locals and the odd carpet shop guy (although most are pretty nice) in Esfahan, the beauty of Iran is that it is virtually free of hassle and annoyance, 2/10

    • Women alone: There is much less sexual harassment than you might expect/fear and it's nothing like India/Pakistan. The problem is really that it's uncommon for women to travel alone and although there's little danger, it's much better if you are with a friend.

    • Social conventions: When meeting those of the opposite sex shaking hands is not common or considered polite. Generally if you are a couple the male will be spoken to and addressed.

  • Rating: 8/10

* Miss at your peril: Iran - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

-

 

 

» Jordan

  • Petra

    Intro: Common with many places around the world, Jordan doesn't have that much to offer. It is more expensive than its neighbour (Syria) and its residents are less friendly, but it is the abode to one of the worlds most impressive sights: Petra. That's all that really needs to be said about Jordan.

Most would say, Amman needs a day, Jerash, as set of Roman ruins and Wadi Rum, out in the desert are over priced and the Dead Sea is easier (especially for females, but more expensive) in Israel. But then again there's Petra and a comparatively safe Middle East experience away from the crowds and hassle of Egypt.

Petra

For those of you who don't know the name. Petra, shown left, which was recently highlighted by the ridiculous 'new7 wonders' campaign is an ancient stone city. Petra, meaning stone/rock in ancient Greek. With two highly impressive stone facades cut into rock faces as seen in 'Indiana Jones'. Coupled with the whole area and a long narrow passage leading up to one facade make it unforgettable. If you have some privacy away from the sometimes large hoards that visit daily, the area is awe inspiring. However, don't expect to find anything exciting inside the facade entrances as in the movie!

 

  • Highlights: Petra*, Wadi Rum and the Dead sea

  • Lowlights: Amman, Jerash (compared to Ba'albeck or Palmyra), Aqaba

  • Visa strategy: On arrival (apart from at the King Hussein bridge) small visa fee normally charged.

  • Typical tourist trail: From Syria, to Amman, Jerash and back and/or Jerusalem, Petra then Egypt/Eilat

  • Dangers and annoyances: Dipping in the Dead Sea with a cut you did not know about and getting ripped off by taxi drivers in Amman

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Generally very hot, but getting cold at night in the winter and can even snow at Petra

  • Money: ATMs - currency is the Jordanian Dinar, aka. JD

  • Costs: The JD doesn't go that far, especially with the Petra entrance fee and little rip-offs. US$30-40 a day min

  • Getting around: Okay buses and shared taxis, don't let them rip you off, ask a local how much they are paying

  • Guide book: Many good guides, a general Middle East guide is fine

  • People vibe:  

    • Locals: Jordanians are really quite nice people, the problem is finding one with so many Palestinians, Iraqis and others about, who are not that friendly at all

    • Other travellers: Lots of Australians and Kiwis and some package tourists, especially at Petra

  • Tourist factor: 6/10

  • Accommodation: Reasonable accommodation, be sure to bargain. Real over supply with the Middle East's problems

    • Hot water: Fine

    • Average cost: US$15-US$20. You can sleep very cheaply on hostel roofs in the summer months or in nearly empty dorms

  • Communications: Internet fine in Amman, more expensive and slower in Petra

  • Health: Petra requires a lot of walking, make sure you have sun block, tons of water and even a hat

  • Media: For photos of Petra click here

    • Books: Limited, some English newspapers

    • TV: BBC World in hotels and videos shown ('Indiana Jones') in Petra

  • Food: Standard Middle Eastern fair, great BBQs in Petra hotels

    • Vegetarians: Can be difficult if you dislike falafel

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Some hassle, don't let taxi drivers bully you

    • Women alone: Women will get stared at, make sure you cover up and have a friend about

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Everyone smokes, everywhere. Including buses which is not very pleasant for non-smokers.

  • Rating: Without Petra 5/10 with 7/10

Off the beaten track onto the 4X4 track:

For not-too expensive independent travel, if you have 3 or 4 friends sharing and are competent at 4-wheel driving, the best way to have a marvelous time in Jordan is to hire an off-road vehicle (with 2 good spare tyres) and head off on desert tracks. It is NOT too expensive to hire a local guide/interpreter to help out; with a GPS and mobile for back-up, you can see a hell of a lot.

There are painted desert castles, lost Roman forts, pink sand deserts, white salt flats with mirages to explore - and much, much more; a lot off the beaten track, and by no means all of it difficult or dangerous to reach, just a little bit rough. Jordan, especially the south, has possibly some of the most varied and spectacular scenery in the world.

One idea is the route down from Petra, through the Araba mountains, on ancient trails to the Dead Sea Rift. It's a dream. - With thanks, Antonia Willis


  -

 

 

» Lebanon

  • Lebanon flagIntro: Most travellers give what was one of the worlds hottest destinations a miss due to its former bad rap and problems with getting back into Syria on their single entry visa. Lebanon can be expensive when compared to Turkey and Syria, and getting to see the mountains and famous cedars without a car is difficult. Beirut is not overly stimulating and a good night out will set you back quite a bit. Nevertheless, Beirut truly is the Paris of the Middle East: the most liberal, sophisticated, open-minded place in the region (only place in MENA region with gay bars) with beautiful architecture (bullet-holes included), beaches and people. However, accommodation is good value and the temple and ruins at Ba'albeck are one of the must sees of the whole region. Limited travellers, generally nice people, small distances and easy to use buses mean that exploring and a visit to the Middle East's least visited and most beautiful country is extremely rewarding. If only for several days before picking up the Istanbul to Cairo trail again.

    • Highlights: Ba'albeck * and checking out Beirut, especially its nightlife and obvious war damage

  • Visa strategy: Available on arrival at the border if passport has no evidence of a trip to Israel. Make sure you have a multiple entry visa to Syria. Visa free if you stay under 48 hours

  • Typical tourist trail: None, normally a dash from Syria to see Ba'albeck with a night in Beirut

  • Dangers: Tension in border areas

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Ranges from very cold (in mountains) to very hot. April or May the weather is wonderful. August is really hot.

  • Costs: Pretty good value, but not dirt cheap. Like almost anywhere, can get expensive if you want a high standard of living or live it up

  • Money: ATMs. Can withdraw US dollars in some machines.

  • Getting around: Shared mini-bus or shared taxi

  • Guide book: Hard to find something decent

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Great fun people

    • Other travellers: Very few

  • Tourist factor: 3/10

  • Accommodation: Few cheap places, cheapest places in Beirut are over the 'Wash Me' car wash, hard to find (see guidebook). Go to the third floor for friendliest service.

    • Hot water: Fine

    • Average cost: Less than US$20 can be found, which is better value than Damascus in a generally more expensive country

  • Communications: Many 24 hour internet places in Beirut, but not that cheap

  • Media: For photos of Ba'albeck click here

    • Books: Lots of imported magazines and newspapers

    • TV: Cable in hotels

  • Food: Fast food and general Middle East eating, not that cheap. Great selection in supermarkets.

    • Vegetarians: Generally okay with a little difficulty.

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Taxis beeping at you in Beirut. A much more western society than Syria

    • Women alone: Generally okay, you may be hit on a lot - this is a male dominated society

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: The best place to get a beer in the Middle East

  • Rating 7/10

  -

 

 

» Syria

  • Syria map - taken from www.bbc.co.ukIntro: Often described as the ugly sister of the Middle East, with Israel and Egypt, getting all the glamour. Syria also gets its fair share of media attention and normally for the wrong reasons. Like Iran the name seems to inspire fear in many. Quite the contrary is true, Syria is fascinating, welcoming, safe and full of wonders. Well worth a visit and in fact a necessity if doing the Cairo to Istanbul route. Visa hassle and disappointing cities, made up for by Palmyra, the Crac des Chevaliers (famous crusader castle) and some of the friendliest people in the world.

    • Highlights: Palmyra *, the Old City of Damascus, Crac des Chevaliers and amazing people

    • Lowlights: Bigger towns and getting your visa

  • Visa strategy: You really need to get this in your home country, technically only those nationals without an embassy or consulate in their home countries can get one at the border. Visas are possible in Ankara or Cairo, but very expensive (you will need to get a recommendation letter from your embassy) and are time consuming (we are hearing more and more mixed reports on this, some people having no problem in Istanbul - it is up to you to take the chance). Get a multiple entry visa if you want to visit Lebanon (which you should). Cost about £30 in London, other countries less, some (USA) more expensive. Passport must have no evidence of a trip to Israel.

  • Typical tourist trail: Turkey to Aleppo, Homs, Hama, Crac des Chevaliers, Palmyra, Damascus to Jordan or Lebanon

  • Dangers: Stay aware of situation in Middle East, however one of the world's safest countries

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Can snow in Damascus, very hot in summer

  • Costs: Damn cheap, less than US$15 per day outside Damascus

  • Money: Take USD/EUR cash, few ATMs (only recently there are at least 3 in Damascus near the centre of the city, there is also at least 1 in Aleppo (at the Amra Palace hotel) and the airport), changing Travellers Cheques can be a real pain, you will need your purchase receipts. It is advisable to carry cheques in US Dollar, it is difficult to get cheques in € or even £ exchanged. Good places to change non USD TCs are reported in Aleppo (the CBS branch near Ugarit cinema 1st floor, some 5 minutes walk north of Baron hotel), in Damascus try the branch opposite the Semiramis hotel, (expect to be kept busy for about half an hour - you'll have to pass by 7 persons, on 2 floors, including twice via the manager!). Cheques in US$ are widely accepted, sometimes even at hotels.

  • What to take: USD/EUR cash - get from Turkey/Jordan/Lebanon

  • Getting around: Buses a little rough, but amazing value. Shared taxis also good for international destinations

  • Guide book: Overkill, but good Lonely Planet or Syria chapter in Footprint or Let's Go

  • People vibe: Some of the friendliest people on the planet, their kindness and hospitality will never cease to amaze you

  • Other travellers: Lots of Australians and Kiwis

  • Tourist factor: 6/10

  • Accommodation: Fantastic and amazing value in Palmyra and Hama. Terrible value and just plain terrible in Homs and Damascus

    • Hot water: Fine

    • Average cost: US$15

  • Communications: Internet in Damascus. Public access not overly wide-spread and certainly not away from population and student centres.

  • Media: For photos of Palmyra click here

    • Books: Limited

    • TV: BBC World

  • Food: Limited choice, outside Palmyra. No fast food chains, good pizzas in Damascus. Very cheap. National dishes include kubbeh (minced semolina and meat formed in balls and stuffed with minced meat, onion and nuts) and yabrak (vine leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat).

    • Vegetarians: Okay

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: None, apart from people continuously being friendly and not leaving you alone at times

    • Women alone: Dress very conservatively, having your own headscarf might be an idea to save money hiring them from mosques and in remote areas. However this is nothing like Iran and no ultra-conservative dress is required or enforced.

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: None - as per Middle East culture, everyone smokes.

  • Rating 7.5/10

  -

 

 

» Turkey

* Miss at your peril -Turkey 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

  • Aya Sofia - IstanbulIntro: Turkey: where Europe and Asia meet, the best of both worlds and one of the best traveller destinations on the map. It is big and diverse, has amazing sights, cities, history, beaches, cheap prices, a great bus system and it is as easy living comfortably on the beaten track as it is to be in a town where no English is spoken and the culture is unique. Turkey has a significant divide, the west, where most travellers and package tourists hang out and the east which is much more like Asia. The east is more remote, requires major bus travel and is much less civilized meaning everything written below needs reassessing.

    • Highlights: The deserted East, Cappadocia, Istanbul, Butterfly Valley (near Oludeniz), Mosques in Istanbul and Edirne, to name but a few including most of the coast (apart from really developed areas), ruins and natural wonders won't disappoint. Don't miss the East, Van and north-eastern mountains.

    • Lowlights: Tourist damaged tacky beach resorts such as Bodrum and long distances especially if heading to Iran or the Caucasus. Over zealous males in beach resorts trying to crack onto foreign females is a common complaint.

  • Visa strategy: Available on arrival. Authorities are keen to link visa fees - that vary per country (Americas pay the most) - to currencies of nationalities. For example as a British citizen you would pay something like £10 in GBP and an Irish citizen €10 in EUR and so on to a certain extent. Try to have this (or at least USD) with you to avoid exchange fees. The tourist visas have good validity and can be extended no problem. There are two different visa types. With a single entry visa, you can enter Turkey only once and stay up to three months. Multiple entry visa, on the other hand allows you to enter and exit the country more than once within one year period specified on your passport and you can stay in Turkey for three months each time.

  • Typical tourist trail: Istanbul to Troy, to Ephesus to Oludeniz to Kas to Olympus (amazing Chimera) to Cappadocia

  • Dangers: Enjoying yourself too much. Some terrorism and heavy army presents in Iraqi border areas (PKK)

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot in the summer, too cold in the winter. Visit late September or Spring

  • Costs: The whole country is excellent value for money, although without a doubt getting increasingly more expensive. Good value still remains, notably outside of peak tourist seasons and away from touristy coastal areas. It is worth noting that the Turkish Lira is one of a number of rapidly developing nation currencies that has significantly strengthened against western currencies.

  • Money: ATMs, all major currency traveller cheques cashed no problem. 2005 saw the introduction of the New Turkish Lira (YTL) which replaced the old Turkish Lira (TL). The New Turkish Lira is equivalent to one million (old) Turkish Liras (TL). It's juts the six zeros have been dropped from the old TL to make the YTL, i.e. If you paid TL1,000,000 for a beer in 2004, you now pay YTL1. YTL is divided into 100 New Kurus (Yeni Kurus, yeh-NEE koo-roosh). Old liras notes were withdrawn from circulation and now cannot be used. So gone are the heady days where everyone could become a millionaire and most a billionaire in Turkey.

  • What to take: There is some good trekking in the north east of the country that will need camping equipment if you are up for it

  • Getting around: Fantastic bus system (some buses big, some small), not so good trains. Ferry travel to Greece is expensive considering you can actually see the islands! Dolmus are small stop-anywhere mini buses. If you want to go to rural areas where inner-city buses don't run, you will need to locate the dolmus stand relevant to your destination. There is a limited rail network, but buses are easier, cheaper and faster.

Good tip: When taking buses, especially at night, walk around all of the operators and ask to look at the passenger lists to quickly gauge how full the bus is and whether you will have room to stretch out. Bear in mind that options are great and jumping on bus after bus is easy. For example there is one crowded over night bus from Istanbul to Cappadocia a night, but simply take any empty bus from Istanbul to that region and get off at Asksaray after a good nights sleep with loads of room to stretch out. Then pick up a bus to Goreme (heart of Cappadocia) no problem.

Ferries to Greece

During the high season-usually from May till October, there are at least 2 regular ferry services between these Greek Islands and Turkish towns. One Ferry company is Greek the other one is Turkish. Departure times change frequently but it is safe to say that ferries usually depart Turkish towns in the morning and Greek Islands in the afternoons.

From the Turkish end - if you want to go to Greece with the ferry you are required to check with the company one day in advance (formalities). Routes are: Chios to Cesme, Lesbos to Ayvalik, Samos to Kusadasi, Kos to Bodrum and Rhodes to Marmaris.

 

Ferries to Italy: There are direct ferries from Izmir to Venice, but at about US$500, it's cheaper to go by land.

  • Guide book: Many. The Lonely Planet is good. Asia Overland by Trailblazer is also an excellent resource, but not an all out guide. An excellent web-resource on Turkey is www.turkeytravelplanner.com

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: A little jaded in the very touristy coastal areas, but on the whole a fantastically welcoming friendly people with a tradition of hospitality that really means something

    • Other travellers: A wide range from round-the-world tripping Australians and Kiwis to Club 18-30 package holiday teenagers

  • Tourist factor: from 10/10 to 2/10 - its a vast country with plenty to explore, especially in the north east

  • Accommodation: Great widespread choice of accommodation. More basic in style the further east you go

    • Hot water: Fine, in some traveller beach colonies shower water is salty

    • Average cost: Under US$15

  • Communications: Widespread internet (in west)

  • Media:

    • Books: Some book shops in Istanbul, but generally expensive. A few book exchanges and daily foreign (especially English and German) newspapers available in tourist areas. English tabloids, not such a good read, are printed in Greece daily, so ready available on same day in coastal package resorts.

    • TV: Some English news channels, plenty of cinemas

  • Food: Great choice, great Kebabs and always at a good price

    • Vegetarians: Normally okay

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: There are a few touts and lots of carpet sellers, but they are not anything like their counterparts in Egypt or India

  • Women alone: Dress conservatively, you will probably constantly be looked at and hit upon with bad lines.

    • E-mailed comment: Turkey is indeed a gem, and I met some very kind and friendly people there. The eastern end was my main focus and I would say, go! As a solo female traveller I didn't get hassled at all - it felt safe to say I was travelling alone (against practically all advice I've read), and in fact that caused people to look after me even more. Incidentally, on long-distance buses in Turkey, a woman travelling alone will always be seated next to another woman, or will have a seat to herself. I dressed conservatively (covered my arms and legs; no low-cut tops; and I wear a bandana/headscarf anyway when I travel, for convenience); I also avoided eye contact unless asking directions etc., as Turkish women seemed to do. I was stared at a lot, particularly in the eastern towns, as I am clearly a foreigner, but (perhaps because of my clothing and behaviour) I did not experience any sexual harassment or feel uncomfortable (though I used my common sense, e.g. did not wander round the streets at night in small eastern towns). I've taken your advice on packing light - I tried out a 35L daysack for 2 weeks in Turkey - and it made travelling a lot easier. Now I've gone ahead and bought a proper 35L bag with a frame, for use on all my non-camping trips. - Hannah

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Getting a beer outside touristy areas can be difficult. Most adults smoke, expect to second hand smoke about twenty a day. Although you can probably get away with second hand smoking only maybe half a dozen cigarettes now that they have banned smoking on all the public buses.

  • Rating 8.5/10

 

 

* Miss at your peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel' - This whole region is a treasure chest, great people, great sights, easy transport. Apart from other flashing stars on this page: Petra, Palmyra and Ba'albeck should not be missed. Don't be put off by news headlines - The Middle East is top draw, reasonably safe and very hospitable.

 

Remember, this is only a take (an overview if you will); very few get the chance to see every inch of every country or have the time to get everyone's opinion (you are welcome and encouraged to mail in yours). Please, please if you have been anywhere recently send your comments to contribute and help keep all information fresh for future travellers. Or if you are about to head off remember this site when you return and put a few lines in an e-mail to let us know if things have changed.

 

-

 

Iran, the LP way

»   Guidebooks.. If you are heading from Istanbul to Cairo the best guides covering this route are available from Lonely Planet and Let's Go. Although it takes some getting use to the Let's Go version (hard to pin down) is down to earth and straightforward. It's therefore recommended and is much less common than its LP counterpart.

Heading East, Lonely Planet's: Istanbul to Kathmandu is good and the Iran LP is probably one of the better (apart from the annoying editorialising that is now found in many newer editions) guides LP offer.

Recommended regional guides: both of which now slightly out dated and hard to find. Desperately in need of an update these are practically your own choices when it comes to all in one guides. Otherwise take separate country guides or wing it!

Lonely Planet Istanbul to Cairo on a Shoestring - Andrew Humphreys, Jeff Williams

Buy/view: in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

 

 

 

 

 Lonely Planet Istanbul to Kathmandu - Paul Harding, Simon Richmond

Buy/view: in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

 

 

-

 

"Before you criticize someone, first walk a mile in their shoes. Because then you will be a mile away and have their shoes!"

 

[ back to top ]   /    [ back to country index ]   /   [ back to home ]   /   [ comment/contribute ]   /   [ reading & resources ]


[


]