» Iran

• Dangers and annoyances: Virtually none Iran is actually a remarkably safe country, but strict religious laws do apply - however, these serve more than hinders travellers. Photography of government buildings is illegal and unlike in other places, taken seriously. There are reports of fake policemen scams (full details in LP), but this is no longer really a major problem with some attempts being laughable - demand ID or that you go back to your hotel, otherwise just walk away, you are in no real danger. Around the Afghanistan, Iraq and Pakistan border things are a little different and care is required

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Autumn and spring are pleasant and would be considered the high season, but a sweater is still needed, especially on draughty night buses. Winter is surprisingly cold with towns like Masule getting cut off by snow - skiing is cheap and possible near Tehran up to about mid-April - and even in Spring/Autumn, when the centre of the country is pleasant northern and high lying areas can be quite chilly. Conversely, in the summer most of the country roasts, but in the interior the dry heat is not too bad. Even in November it's unpleasantly hot and sweaty on the Gulf coast, making mid-winter the only bearable time to visit here.

• Typical tourist trail: Tehran, Yazd, Esfahan, Shiraz/Persepolis (Purse-Po-Lis)

• Media:

  • Books: You will be able to find pretty dull English language newspapers and books in major towns. There are the odd news-stands selling copies of Time and Newsweek (although always out of date). That's it.

  • TV: Most hotels of an okay standard have a TV, although you are unlikely to get anything other than state television in Farsi (although live Premiership football is shown). In more expensive upper mid range hotels you might be lucky and get BBC World and CNN.

  • Movies: To view a few digital camera shot movies shot in Iran, click here. You'll need QuickTime (free download), and these files will take several minutes to load even with an ADSL connection.

• Food: Eating can be somewhat difficult in Iran. Restaurants are seldom geared to tourists and signs/menus are mainly in Farsi. Food isn't that bad, with plenty of rice, yogurt and salad. Fish isn't too common and most dishes contain meat. There are plenty of pizza, and kebab/burger places around, but none are likely to excite your taste buds.

  • Vegetarians: Difficult, but not impossible. Salads, yogurt, rice and fresh fruit/veg are plentiful. Well stocked shops/bakeries will sell tins of fruit and snacks. Vegetarian pizzas are unusual, but can be had. Rice and mashed eggplant/aubergine dishes feature on most menus. It's easy to buy bread, cheese and salad material to make your own sandwiches.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Apart from curious locals and the odd carpet shop guy (although most are pretty nice) in Esfahan, the beauty of Iran is that it is virtually free of hassle and annoyance, 2/10

  • Women alone: There is much less sexual harassment than you might expect/fear and it's nothing like India/Pakistan. The problem is really that it's uncommon for women to travel alone and although there's little danger, it's much better if you are with a friend.

  • Social conventions: When meeting those of the opposite sex shaking hands is not common or considered polite. Generally if you are a couple the male will be spoken to and addressed.

• Rating: 8/10

 Miss at your peril: Iran - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

» Jordan

» Lebanon

• Intro: Most travellers give what was one of the worlds hottest destinations a miss due to its former bad rap and problems with getting back into Syria on their single entry visa. Lebanon can be expensive when compared to Turkey and Syria, and getting to see the mountains and famous cedars without a car is difficult. Beirut is not overly stimulating and a good night out will set you back quite a bit. Nevertheless, Beirut truly is the Paris of the Middle East: the most liberal, sophisticated, open-minded place in the region (only place in MENA region with gay bars) with beautiful architecture (bullet-holes included), beaches and people. However, accommodation is good value and the temple and ruins at Ba'albeck are one of the must sees of the whole region. Limited travellers, generally nice people, small distances and easy to use buses mean that exploring and a visit to the Middle East's least visited and most beautiful country is extremely rewarding. If only for several days before picking up the Istanbul to Cairo trail again.

  • Highlights: Ba'albeck and checking out Beirut, especially its nightlife and obvious war damage

• Visa strategy: Available on arrival at the border if passport has no evidence of a trip to Israel. Make sure you have a multiple entry visa to Syria. Visa free if you stay under 48 hours

• Typical tourist trail: None, normally a dash from Syria to see Ba'albeck with a night in Beirut

• Dangers: Tension in border areas

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Ranges from very cold (in mountains) to very hot. April or May the weather is wonderful. August is really hot.

• Costs: Pretty good value, but not dirt cheap. Like almost anywhere, can get expensive if you want a high standard of living or live it up

• Money: ATMs. Can withdraw US dollars in some machines.

• Getting around: Shared mini-bus or shared taxi

• Guide book: Hard to find something decent

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Great fun people

  • Other travellers: Very few

• Tourist factor: 3/10

• Accommodation: Few cheap places, cheapest places in Beirut are over the 'Wash Me' car wash, hard to find (see guidebook). Go to the third floor for friendliest service.

  • Hot water: Fine

  • Average cost: Less than US$20 can be found, which is better value than Damascus in a generally more expensive country

• Communications: Many 24 hour internet places in Beirut, but not that cheap

• Media: For photos of Ba'albeck click here

  • Books: Lots of imported magazines and newspapers

  • TV: Cable in hotels

• Food: Fast food and general Middle East eating, not that cheap. Great selection in supermarkets.

  • Vegetarians: Generally okay with a little difficulty.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Taxis beeping at you in Beirut. A much more western society than Syria

  • Women alone: Generally okay, you may be hit on a lot - this is a male dominated society

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: The best place to get a beer in the Middle East

• Rating 7/10

» Syria

• Intro: Often described as the ugly sister of the Middle East, with Israel and Egypt, getting all the glamour. Syria also gets its fair share of media attention and normally for the wrong reasons. Like Iran the name seems to inspire fear in many. Quite the contrary is true, Syria is fascinating, welcoming, safe and full of wonders. Well worth a visit and in fact a necessity if doing the Cairo to Istanbul route. Visa hassle and disappointing cities, made up for by Palmyra, the Crac des Chevaliers (famous crusader castle) and some of the friendliest people in the world.

  • Highlights: Palmyra , the Old City of Damascus, Crac des Chevaliers and amazing people

  • Lowlights: Bigger towns and getting your visa

• Visa strategy: You really need to get this in your home country, technically only those nationals without an embassy or consulate in their home countries can get one at the border. Visas are possible in Ankara or Cairo, but very expensive (you will need to get a recommendation letter from your embassy) and are time consuming (we are hearing more and more mixed reports on this, some people having no problem in Istanbul - it is up to you to take the chance). Get a multiple entry visa if you want to visit Lebanon (which you should). Cost about £30 in London, other countries less, some (USA) more expensive. Passport must have no evidence of a trip to Israel.

• Typical tourist trail: Turkey to Aleppo, Homs, Hama, Crac des Chevaliers, Palmyra, Damascus to Jordan or Lebanon

• Dangers: Stay aware of situation in Middle East, however one of the world's safest countries

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Can snow in Damascus, very hot in summer

• Costs: Damn cheap, less than US$15 per day outside Damascus

• Money: Take USD/EUR cash, few ATMs (only recently there are at least 3 in Damascus near the centre of the city, there is also at least 1 in Aleppo (at the Amra Palace hotel) and the airport), changing Travellers Cheques can be a real pain, you will need your purchase receipts. It is advisable to carry cheques in US Dollar, it is difficult to get cheques in € or even £ exchanged. Good places to change non USD TCs are reported in Aleppo (the CBS branch near Ugarit cinema 1st floor, some 5 minutes walk north of Baron hotel), in Damascus try the branch opposite the Semiramis hotel, (expect to be kept busy for about half an hour - you'll have to pass by 7 persons, on 2 floors, including twice via the manager!). Cheques in US$ are widely accepted, sometimes even at hotels.

• What to take: USD/EUR cash - get from Turkey/Jordan/Lebanon

• Getting around: Buses a little rough, but amazing value. Shared taxis also good for international destinations

• Guide book: Overkill, but good Lonely Planet or Syria chapter in Footprint or Let's Go

• People vibe: Some of the friendliest people on the planet, their kindness and hospitality will never cease to amaze you

• Other travellers: Lots of Australians and Kiwis

• Tourist factor: 6/10

• Accommodation: Fantastic and amazing value in Palmyra and Hama. Terrible value and just plain terrible in Homs and Damascus

  • Hot water: Fine

  • Average cost: US$15

• Communications: Internet in Damascus. Public access not overly wide-spread and certainly not away from population and student centres.

• Media: For photos of Palmyra click here

  • Books: Limited

  • TV: BBC World

• Food: Limited choice, outside Palmyra. No fast food chains, good pizzas in Damascus. Very cheap. National dishes include kubbeh (minced semolina and meat formed in balls and stuffed with minced meat, onion and nuts) and yabrak (vine leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat).

  • Vegetarians: Okay

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None, apart from people continuously being friendly and not leaving you alone at times

  • Women alone: Dress very conservatively, having your own headscarf might be an idea to save money hiring them from mosques and in remote areas. However this is nothing like Iran and no ultra-conservative dress is required or enforced.

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: None - as per Middle East culture, everyone smokes.

• Rating 7.5/10

» Turkey

 Miss at your peril -Turkey 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

• Intro: Turkey: where Europe and Asia meet, the best of both worlds and one of the best traveller destinations on the map. It is big and diverse, has amazing sights, cities, history, beaches, cheap prices, a great bus system and it is as easy living comfortably on the beaten track as it is to be in a town where no English is spoken and the culture is unique. Turkey has a significant divide, the west, where most travellers and package tourists hang out and the east which is much more like Asia. The east is more remote, requires major bus travel and is much less civilized meaning everything written below needs reassessing.

  • Highlights: The deserted East, Cappadocia, Istanbul, Butterfly Valley (near Oludeniz), Mosques in Istanbul and Edirne, to name but a few including most of the coast (apart from really developed areas), ruins and natural wonders won't disappoint. Don't miss the East, Van and north-eastern mountains.

  • Lowlights: Tourist damaged tacky beach resorts such as Bodrum and long distances especially if heading to Iran or the Caucasus. Over zealous males in beach resorts trying to crack onto foreign females is a common complaint.

• Visa strategy: Available on arrival. Authorities are keen to link visa fees - that vary per country (Americas pay the most) - to currencies of nationalities. For example as a British citizen you would pay something like £10 in GBP and an Irish citizen €10 in EUR and so on to a certain extent. Try to have this (or at least USD) with you to avoid exchange fees. The tourist visas have good validity and can be extended no problem. There are two different visa types. With a single entry visa, you can enter Turkey only once and stay up to three months. Multiple entry visa, on the other hand allows you to enter and exit the country more than once within one year period specified on your passport and you can stay in Turkey for three months each time.

• Typical tourist trail: Istanbul to Troy, to Ephesus to Oludeniz to Kas to Olympus (amazing Chimera) to Cappadocia

• Dangers: Enjoying yourself too much. Some terrorism and heavy army presents in Iraqi border areas (PKK)

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot in the summer, too cold in the winter. Visit late September or Spring

• Costs: The whole country is excellent value for money, although without a doubt getting increasingly more expensive. Good value still remains, notably outside of peak tourist seasons and away from touristy coastal areas. It is worth noting that the Turkish Lira is one of a number of rapidly developing nation currencies that has significantly strengthened against western currencies.

• Money: ATMs, all major currency traveller cheques cashed no problem. 2005 saw the introduction of the New Turkish Lira (YTL) which replaced the old Turkish Lira (TL). The New Turkish Lira is equivalent to one million (old) Turkish Liras (TL). It's juts the six zeros have been dropped from the old TL to make the YTL, i.e. If you paid TL1,000,000 for a beer in 2004, you now pay YTL1. YTL is divided into 100 New Kurus (Yeni Kurus, yeh-NEE koo-roosh). Old liras notes were withdrawn from circulation and now cannot be used. So gone are the heady days where everyone could become a millionaire and most a billionaire in Turkey.

• What to take: There is some good trekking in the north east of the country that will need camping equipment if you are up for it

• Guide book: Many. The Lonely Planet is good. Asia Overland by Trailblazer is also an excellent resource, but not an all out guide. An excellent web-resource on Turkey is www.turkeytravelplanner.com

• People vibe:

  • Locals: A little jaded in the very touristy coastal areas, but on the whole a fantastically welcoming friendly people with a tradition of hospitality that really means something

  • Other travellers: A wide range from round-the-world tripping Australians and Kiwis to Club 18-30 package holiday teenagers

• Tourist factor: from 10/10 to 2/10 - its a vast country with plenty to explore, especially in the north east

• Accommodation: Great widespread choice of accommodation. More basic in style the further east you go

  • Hot water: Fine, in some traveller beach colonies shower water is salty

  • Average cost: Under US$15

• Communications: Widespread internet (in west)

• Media:

  • Books: Some book shops in Istanbul, but generally expensive. A few book exchanges and daily foreign (especially English and German) newspapers available in tourist areas. English tabloids, not such a good read, are printed in Greece daily, so ready available on same day in coastal package resorts.

  • TV: Some English news channels, plenty of cinemas

• Food: Great choice, great Kebabs and always at a good price

  • Vegetarians: Normally okay

• Hassle and annoyance factor: There are a few touts and lots of carpet sellers, but they are not anything like their counterparts in Egypt or India

• Women alone: Dress conservatively, you will probably constantly be looked at and hit upon with bad lines.

  • E-mailed comment: Turkey is indeed a gem, and I met some very kind and friendly people there. The eastern end was my main focus and I would say, go! As a solo female traveller I didn't get hassled at all - it felt safe to say I was travelling alone (against practically all advice I've read), and in fact that caused people to look after me even more. Incidentally, on long-distance buses in Turkey, a woman travelling alone will always be seated next to another woman, or will have a seat to herself. I dressed conservatively (covered my arms and legs; no low-cut tops; and I wear a bandana/headscarf anyway when I travel, for convenience); I also avoided eye contact unless asking directions etc., as Turkish women seemed to do. I was stared at a lot, particularly in the eastern towns, as I am clearly a foreigner, but (perhaps because of my clothing and behaviour) I did not experience any sexual harassment or feel uncomfortable (though I used my common sense, e.g. did not wander round the streets at night in small eastern towns). I've taken your advice on packing light - I tried out a 35L daysack for 2 weeks in Turkey - and it made travelling a lot easier. Now I've gone ahead and bought a proper 35L bag with a frame, for use on all my non-camping trips. - Hannah

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Getting a beer outside touristy areas can be difficult. Most adults smoke, expect to second hand smoke about twenty a day. Although you can probably get away with second hand smoking only maybe half a dozen cigarettes now that they have banned smoking on all the public buses.

• Rating 8.5/10

 Miss at your peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel' - This whole region is a treasure chest, great people, great sights, easy transport. Apart from other flashing stars on this page: Petra, Palmyra and Ba'albeck should not be missed. Don't be put off by news headlines - The Middle East is top draw, reasonably safe and very hospitable.

Lonely Planet Istanbul to Cairo on a Shoestring - Andrew Humphreys, Jeff Williams

Buy/view: in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

 Lonely Planet Istanbul to Kathmandu - Paul Harding, Simon Richmond

Buy/view: in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

"Before you criticize someone, first walk a mile in their shoes. Because then you will be a mile away and have their shoes!"

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