Australia & Melanesia | New Zealand & Polynesia | Central America | Caribbean | South America | North America | Southern Asia | Northern Asia | South East Asia | Indochina | North Africa | East Africa | Southern Africa | West Africa | The CIS | Middle/Near East | France/Swiss/UK | Antarctica | Guides & Other Books

What follows are only basic snapshot summaries and breakdowns of the factors important to independent travellers. New Zealand has a lot to offer for a small country and the region of Polynesia is HUGE, spread over a wide area - it's impossible for this page to be comprehensive.

Both New Zealand and Fiji are firmly on the 'round the world' route connecting Australia with the Americas. Although it is fair to say that New Zealand sees far less tourists than Australia or Europe, depending on the season it can seem as busy due to the compact size. New Zealand and Fiji as with Australia have a well developed travel industries supporting travelers of all budgets and are a great place to start for new travels. They are both easier to get around, better value and often friendlier than Australia (although very few places in the world as are friendly as Fiji!).

Fiji, French Polynesia, Hawaii and Easter Island are the most well connected Pacific Islands and the ones reached most cost effectively and allowing you to connect onwards around the world. For this reason when you arrive in gateway hubs such as Nadi (in Fiji) don't expect the place to be a deserted instant paradise. That you can find (notably in Fiji) with a time and money. These main hubs are covered here. The poorly connected others like Samoa, Tonga, Kiribati, Tuvalu are best visited with Fiji as a hub and see little tourist traffic.

  If you are set on going and need a guidebook or reading material please see a list of recommended guides/books here (go on, have a look!). All guides/books can be viewed in more detail and click-through purchased with Amazon in the UK, US or Canada. Plus shopping through the site is a big thank you (if you have been helped out). To see why click here.

Get your bearings... show/hide map of the region

• Intro: Easter Island, Isla Pascua, Rapa Nui, Te pito o te henua (the navel of the world)... probably no one knows the real name (if it even had one), and that enigma is at the heart of the island which is for many the very definition of remote. Arriving you find yourself in a time-warp between South America and Polynesia. You hear Chilean Spanish spoken, but notice flowers in the hair of girls and other distinct Polynesian flavours. The main 'town' Hanga Roa, sounds anything but South American. How you experience this will largely depends on if you have arrived from Tahiti or Santiago.

  Easter Island is a tiny, expensive island about 5 and a bit hours flight (3,680km) from the nearest inhabited destination with an airport (the Pitcairn islands - of 'Mutiny and the Bounty' fame is probably remoter (and the nearest place with another living soul (2,075km if anyone is counting) - but accessible by boat only) Looking around will take a day, but two or three days (including the days you arrive/leave) is recommended to include time to get over the jet lag and take in the place. Actually seeing all the sites (which is costly as you need a tour or your own transport), despite what many sources will tell you, it takes no more than one whole day. Eastern Island is a wonderful, relaxed place and you could spend far longer - only if you want to chill, there are far better places for it (with regards to costs and services on offer.

  The cost of getting to the island and around (see below) can be prohibitive for many, but it is a hell of a kick to come face to face with those heads and walk in such a remote, enigmatic place. Few places capture the imagination as this and despite being in real terms actually quite accessible (daily flights) you see few other visitors at many or the archaeological sites, relative to their fame.

The ocean, a dark deep blue looms large from everywhere - the curve of the earth just viable - with crashing waves on a rocky shore. The massive heads look ashore or have crashed ground wards. Then for the moments you start to wonder how and why and what it was like on this island 500 years ago (and how everything change (for the worst)). It certainly is a special place.

• Dangers: Spending too long and too much. The island can be hot and dusty or prone to frequent rain showers (depending when you visit.

• Visa strategy: Free on entry, same requirements as Chile

• Typical tourist trail: A few days stop over between Santiago and French Polynesia. The main town, laying adjacent to the airport is the opposite end of the island to the main moai sites. Ahu Tongariki (the most famous photo of 15 standing moais) is the farthest corner away from the town. It is connected to Hanga Roa (the main/only settlement) via a loop road of good quality. To drive the whole loop - that passes 90% of the islands archeological sites - will take about 2 hours (it is about 70km). Typically you will spend a full day doing this, a half day looking around Hanga Roa plus climbing to the near-by Rano Kau crater (and birdman site) and a half day (or day), doing nothing, drinking pisco, surfing or some other (expensive) activity. You could probably drive to the main attractions every day for a week without being bored - only doing so comes at a high price (cost of transport, tours, rental).

• Costs: Quite expensive (about US$50-$100 per day), but cheap accommodation can be found and you can cook your own food in many cabanas/hostels. The major cost is getting transport out to all the moai.

• Money: The banks (just two - one is Santander) will give credit card advances when open at a fee. There is an ATM at both (but not in the airport - airport to bank is less than 15min walk), USD or EURs change no problem, but at a worse rate than mainland Chile. You can pay for most things with a credit or debit card so don't stress about cash.

• What to buy: Many expensive, but very nice carvings. Lots of mini-moai

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Fine (not many of them). There is a super chilled out vibe and small surf culture.

  • Other travellers: Fine, not to many of them. Large majority of Chilean (South American) visitors. Next come Japanese and the few round the worlders that make it here.

• Tourist factor: 6/10

• Accommodation: The options as you step off the plane are huge if you did not book ahead. Options range from the nice hotels/guesthouses from about US$40-100 to pitching your own tent and dorm beds. In between you have Cabanas (rooms with you own kitchen) and resadencals (rooms next to or part of a family house). Many hostels have a minimum 3 night rule. Pick wisely and go with one of these owners for a look and free lift into town (although walking is easy). Given how remote the location most arrivals have pre-booked accommodation and if you walk around town many places are surprised to see walk-in business However many places are not available to book on the internet. Note the best places to stay are the resceidetals which you almost certainly won't find on internet booking engines. Any of the airport information desks will give you a free map with all the places to stay listed.
  
  If you have nowhere - don't worry. Walking from the airport turn left (ot of the airport), then first right (take second right to pass a hostel), the left. You will pass Chez Oscar (a good choice) and a few others. When you hit the LAN Chile office you are on main street. Turn right and you are in the town centre. That will take less than 10mins to walk. Everyone is super friendly and getting directions if needed is easy.
  
  The cheaper places are the far end of town and won't offer breakfast - no great hardship since you have tonnes of eating places and supermarkets.

• Internet: Some Internet cafes and Wi-Fi (pretty slow at times) just about everywhere (you see, even the world's most remote place has great Wi-Fi!)

• Food: Restaurants are nice, with given the location a great quality, but quite expensive. Supermarkets have a reasonable stock for preparing your own meals. If you are eating every meal out, things will get expensive.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

Getting there: Currently the only way to get to Easter Island is with LAN Chile from French Polynesia (once a week) or Santiago (daily). This was possible on a One World round-the-world ticket, but regulations change frequently. Flight range from US$500-1000 return.

Getting around: The only real way to see the island is to hire a jeep (US$70-100) or take a tour. A motorbike, quad or scooter is cheaper (US$60), but you will need a specific reference to motorbikes on your licence to rent anything two wheeled. Given the period rain showers in some seasons a jeep is far better. A jeep, split between a few people is the best option and you will see all the sights in a day. Around the town, you can hire bikes and walk to a few sights including one of the stunning volcanoes, bird-man site and ruins. The main sites at the far end of town are far too far to reach by bicycle or foot.

Get your bearing... Easter Island map

Guide book: There is no travel guidebook for Easter Island alone, but plenty of books on the history and culture for sale in town. So for you need to buy something or use the chapters in the Rough Guide: Chile (see details/buy with Amazon - UK or USA) or Lonely Planet: Chile (see details/buy with Amazon - UK or USA), which are both good. To be honest you just need information on the history of the island. Some hostels have nice books for loan. Also there are loads of abandoned South America guidebooks here. The new Moon Handbook on Tahiti (including the Cook Islands), has a fairly detailed section on Easter Island and has been recommended.

Other reading: There are many books relating to the history of the island and your guidebook and Wikipedia is probably the best place to start, but for a novel/biography set around the island, Among Stone Giants: The Life of Katherine Routledge and Her Remarkable Expedition to Easter Island by Andrew Tathum (see details - UK, Canada or USA) is highly recommended and informative/interesting.

Comment: Easter island - incredible! Yes, you can see the main sites in 2 days if you run but there is so much to see and do on the island and you can easily spend more time there - horse treks, surfing, scuba diving, trekking, dance shows, or just plain chilling out on beautiful Anakena beach and hanging out with the locals on the weekend. Flights are very often delayed or you may be bumped off the flight, so if possible allow extra time. Wherever you're going it's a very very long way to get back here and it would be a real shame to end up running around the island snapping away at the moai in 2.5 days instead of budgeting for an extra day. The best guide by far is "A companion to Easter Island by James Grant Peterkin" plenty of detail and very easy to follow and it will even tell you how to avoid the tour groups. Lonely Planet etc don't come anywhere close. You can buy it in the stores on the island. - Thanks Jason K

Rating: Although you only need two/three days at maximum, with not much to see, those heads and the island are compelling - 8/10

• Intro: Bula! Over 300 tropical islands set in the South Pacific. Lush green hills, underwater gardens, white beaches and a decent travel infrastructure across the whole budget spectrum. Good English is spoken (as in parts of Africa/Caribbean there is a real flavour of a formal British colonial outpost - occasionally forgotten in time) the locals are wonderfully friendly. There is much to like about Fiji and it is difficult not to be smitten if you spend a little time, effort and money getting away from the crowds. Maybe it is the sun, the water, the time difference or the Kava, but Fiji really does take you away from it all. Attractions are limited (they are small islands after all, with few roads) and getting to the little gems off the beaten track takes time (but at least ferries run and there are plenty of places to stay). If you are the first time in the Pacific or fresh from Asia you are going to find Fiji expensive, but in reality it is good value for where you are.

  Fiji roughly breaks up into five zones/parts.
  1) Viti Levu which is the main and largest island. Almost all enter at Nadi airport on the West coast (the capital Suva also has international connections and is the other size of the island). The [good] coastal road from Nadi to Suva along the 'Coral Coast' hosts the main population and is peppered by resorts.
  2) The Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands. These small, but beautiful islands (one was the location of 'Castaway') are easily reached from Nadi (i.e. the main international gateway) and well developed with accommodation in every prices range. It seems almost all visitors to Fiji will have at least some exposure to them.
  3) Vanua Levu, the country's second largest island, 200km away from Viti Levu.
  4) The many small islands that can be reached with relative ease from Viti Levu and Vanua Levu (excluding the Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands) - these are great and are some of the best, most beautiful and relaxed spots - although there is never much to do when you arrive.
  5) The rest of the islands deep in the Koro Sea, most with very limited ferry/air access and accommodation. Examples would be the Lau and Moala group. Few get here. This is the  Polynesia you imagine and much as the first European visitors would have seen.
  
  A complete antithesis to the North American, Western European and every other work-orientated culture, Fijians know how to relax and enjoy their surroundings: a way of life that they seem eager to share with those who care to visit. Escape Viti Levu (or at least its South (Coral) coast and islands (Yasawa and Mamanuca) accessible from Nadi) for a taste of true Fijian culture, without the manufactured tribal dances and 'grog' ceremonies that so many resorts offer. Many islands offer home stays which makes it possible to be exposed to the true nature of Fijians - a wonderfully friendly and inquisitive people.
  
  Getting off Viti Levu and out of Nadi does require time and money. You won't find historic monuments or any 'attractions' of any significant, this is Polynesia - it is designed to relax: listen to the waves break, feel the wind on your face and feast your eyes on the lush green mountains/forests. Getting out to outer islands, accommodation and transport when there plus finding corners of paradise, although not cheap, is easier here than anywhere else in Poly/Mela/Micronesia.
  
  If you are short on time you can still get a great taste in a 3-5 days, sticking to Viti Levu - but you will need to fork out for a boat cruise/trip and hire car to really see it properly.

• Visa strategy: None or on arrival. Make sure you have something that at least looks like an onward ticket confirmation.

• Typical tourist trail: A stay at a Nadi hostel (or Coral Coast resort) followed by visiting the Yasawas or Bounty/Beachcomber islands - which are touristy, but with easy access. Others will circle the island and stop off in Suva or a north coast resort. Outside of the Yasawas, Coral Coast resorts, Nadi and Suva it is amazing how few tourist you actually see.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hottest Dec-Apr which is also the rainy season - expect tropical storms. The best time to go is October when the weather is hot but not unbearable. Like most places, it can get chilly at night.

• Costs: How to put this? Fiji is pretty expensive and pretty cheap. It all depends on your window of reference which needs to be that of Pacific Island nations. With this in mind Fiji is good value. You can easily live on a Australia/NZ budget, even staying on island resorts, have decent food/drink and get around. That makes it hugely more expensive than Thailand or the Philippines, but much cheaper than French Polynesia or Vanuatu. It is on par with Windward Caribbean Islands.
  
  Typically tourists are not over charges (Fijians are too nice), but in resorts or where wealthier tourist are found, prices can be much higher.

• Money: ATMs available at the larger resorts on the mainland. There are ATMs in all main towns but bear in mind there are only 7 main towns on the mainland, and fewer on the other islands. Credit cards are welcome in most places, but always with a 3-5% extra charge.

• Getting around: The best way to get around (short of having your own wheels) are either the buses (make sure you get on an express bus or the journey will take hours and will stop every 5 minutes) or minivans - that will pick you up from the side of the road, cheap and readily available - try it (with a small bag) from the airport into Nadi for 1FJ$, the stop is just across the road from the airport entrance. A hire car gets you around fastest (but not at great value) and you can drive when whole of Viti Levu in two relaxed days.
  
  Getting to Vanua Levu requires a flight or 10-12hour ferry. Ferries to outer island are not always regular, but all things considered and compared to other Pacific nations, services are regular, reasonable quality and all together pretty good. It is certainly a lot easier to get around Fiji's Islands than it is in Melanesia or the Maldives/Seychelles.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet is okay, the Rough Guide is much better. The Moon handbook is a good alternative and in some ways better, but more out of date these days.

  Customs:

  Not an issue for most visitors on the beaten track, but for those that stray it is important to note that Fiji has retained many of its customs and sensibilities, and you should respect these everywhere, especially in rural areas. Exposing shoulders, knees, cleavage and midriffs is frowned upon and deeply disrespectful if in a village. Other customs to be aware of in villages are those regarding the village chief: you must stoop your shoulders when you pass if you are taller than him and you must not wear head garments or hats in his presence. Do not refuse the offer of yaqona. Man up and drink it in one. After one bilo (coconut shell) full of yaqona/grog/kava you are able to refuse any more but the more you drink the more you will be respected. If you wish to just have a little then use the phrase "low-tide".
  
  

   

  If you really get of the beaten track, you must not on any occasion enter a village without first seeing the chief - if you are unsure wait at the edge of the village for a villager to come to you and guide you. A gift (sevusevu) for the chief is essential when you enter the village (normally a gift of yaqona is the best bet!) Touching the head of a Fijian or facing the soles of your feet towards the chief are forbidden at all times.

  The chief is highly respected; treat him as you would the queen! The beauty of Fiji is the culture, which is still very important to them. Respect this and you will be immediately welcomed into the community.

  Many thanks to Katie Penman for supplying this summary. Katie spent 5 months voluntary teaching in a secondary school in Fiji. We update and revised some of the information on a recent visit.
  

• Accommodation: There are many hostels for backpackers and many hotels and resorts have converted part to be budget focused accommodation - standards vary hugely and AC significantly increases costs. Many resorts or hotel offer a dorm option so if on a tight budget you can cut costs. Fiji is one of only places in the world where resort type accomadtion in remote beutiful locations are affordble to budget travellers.
  
  Homestays are well developed and if possible try to stay in a bure - a traditional Fijian thatched building. For the most part, don't expect prices on par with South East Asia (think more Australia/NZ).

  • Hot water: Can be absent if you go to the bottom of the budget range.

  • Average cost:FJ$50-100 for a double at the non-AC end. FJ$100-200 for the AC end.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: The population is split between traditional Fijians and Indian Fijians (who still retain a South Asian culture and speak Hindi). Both are some of the friendliest people you will ever meet, interested in your life, and easily pleased. However be aware of local customs.

  • Other travellers: Normally Ozzie, American, English or German. Many travel here on their own or as a stop-over on a RTW trip.

• Communications: Internet is available at more modern resorts/hotels. Accommodation aimed at Fijians won't have any Wi-Fi. Accommodation aimed at budget international travellers will have poor quality Wi-Fi, normally only in the lobby. There are a few nationwide Wi-Fi hotspots you can buy prepaid cards for. Otherwise buy a local SIM card.

• Food: Mainly root crops, which are bland in taste and high in carbs, local curries (the Indo-Fijians make excellent rotis). The fruit is plentiful - make the most of the mangoes, pawpaw (papaya) and the local soursap. Western food is readily available, but if it is imported it won't be cheap.

  • Vegetarians: No worries.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Fijians are inquisitive so don't be offended by personal questions.

  • Women alone: Okay in rural areas but stay in pairs after dark. Suva and Nadi are probably the only places in Fiji where it is not advisable to venture out after dark alone.

• Local poisons for the body: As in Melanesia it is all about Kava. A locally grown ceremonial drink made from a root. Kava is also known as Grog or Yaqona. Its use is fussed into Fijian culture and something to experience (see customs above). It is suited to sunset and groups of friends sitting telling stories. Drunk in one draft from a bowl (traditionally coco-nut shell) taken from a big pot. Much is written on the foul taste of Kava (remember it is drunk in one go) and sure it doesn't taste great, but trust me there are far worse things out there. Kava varies in strength and you are always advised to leave 10-15mins between bowls. You will feel more relaxed and sleepy. Conversation flows and generally you won't be very productive.
  
  Rum is distilled locally with Bounty being the most well known.

  Rating: 8/10

• Intro: Where as the Tongans, Samoans and Fijians were known as fierce warriors, island European ships avoided, the Polynesians of these islands were calm and welcoming. Although much of this culture has now vanished and the Islands remain under European rule, you may feel like you are in a picture postcard or shipwreck movie (Mutiny anyone?), but given the high (European) standards and remote location, the cost of living is higher here than almost anywhere else in the world so if on a budget you really have to limit your time or catch a flight onto Easter Island (for which French Polynesia is a main launching point). As with its Caribbean counterparts, expect French through and through including the attitude, food, standards and prices. Escape Tahiti and head for the nearby island of Moorea, cook for yourself and it's doable price-wise. Head for some of the more evocative sounding islands or outer islands and you might wonder why you bothered, especially compared to other Pacific nations which offer so much more at half the price.

• Visa strategy: Free on arrival, if you don't need a visa for France you don't need one for French Polynesia

• Typical tourist trail: Moorea; you can go to a few further islands if you have time. If on anything close to budget you need to ask yourself two questions: Is there a public ferry and is there non-resort accommodation.

• Dangers: Buying anything or spending too many nights in Tahiti.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot, expect downpours (the mountains of Tahiti are some of the wettest places on earth)

• Getting around: La Truck to the dock, ferry (try and get a student discount if you have a card) and bicycles for hire. If you have the budget a hire car will allow you to see more of the main island

• Guide book: You don't need one just to get from the airport to Moorea. Look at one before you go and make a few notes or photocopies. If you are travelling far and wide then the Lonely Planet is the best of a bad bunch. For a full list of guidebooks click here.

• What to take: High factor waterproof sun-block. A tent if you are set on the cheapest accommodation

• Money: ATMs, these can often be empty (including the one at the airport), take a little Euros (or USD). If using ATMs a Visa Plus card or Visa credit card is the way to go; don't rely on the Cirrus network 100%.

• Costs: US$40-100 per day, less if you stay still and don't travel and eat out of supermarkets or fast food.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: French characteristics prevail with some quite stroppy unfriendly locals.

  • Other travellers: Few backpackers, loads of honeymooners

• Tourist factor: 7/10

• Accommodation: There is one expensive-ish place (European prices) opposite the airport (see right) and a few in town, but its best to sleep at the airport the night you arrive (arrivals are normally in the middle of the night). Nearby there are two camping places in Moorea with some fixed huts if you don't have a tent or sleeping bag. These are fairly reasonably priced. See text on right for how to get there. You can find similar places on other islands, but check the guidebook and make a reservation before you head out since budget choices are very limited and if you can't find a bed you'll be forced into a resort at great expense. Beware camping sites can get booked up during public holidays. Overall if you need to stay on even a reasonable budget accommodation options are not great. This is a country where if you can handle $300-1000/night on a resort you are in the right place.

  • Average cost: About US$10-100 a tent/fixed tent/basic room. Away from Tahiti (the main island) and its capital on islands with a reasonable population prices are reasonable. On the more remote islands where all inclusive resorts are the only option (e.g. Bora Bora) costs increase significantly.

• Food: Cook your own, everything is expensive, bring basic foods to cook with you if coming from New Zealand

• Local poisons for the body: You might treat yourself to a beer and that's it

  Rating: 6/10 if only for a quick taste of paradise and a serious tan

This is the only information you need - As you walk out of the airport, cross a big car park to the main road. This takes you to the side of the road furthest from the airport. To your right and 150m along is a commercial laundry. Up the street to its side is as cheap as room you will find in Tahiti (around US$30 dorm bed). Or on the road you will see a bus stop, which is in fact for Le Truck. You want to be on the side of the road that takes you left (with your back to the airport).

Don't get off Le Truck until you see big boats. Pay when you get off - prices are posted. You will soon find a ferry to Moorea; the first one goes at about 0630 (about 5 a day).

At Moorea (short crossing) you will see an old clapped-out school bus as you step off. The driver will signal to you, and will know where you are going from your backpack. Its about 30mins to Moorea Camping (there are a number of options and most have rooms, dorms, bungalows as your budget allows). This ride can be hitched, but took me four hours.