Here's some of the factors you need to give consideration to when on the
road and how to deal with them. This section contains a lot of information
and being a large document will take time to load if you have a slow connection.
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Montezuma's
revenge, the Delhi belly, worship to the porcelain god... call it what you like,
food poisoning is an unfortunate caveat of travel and can strike at anytime
and at any place. You will probably be at a mystery as to what has caused it
and you just have to wait it out. It's effects are horrible, but it doesn't
last long in most cases. There seems to be two types: one that will come on
suddenly (often in the middle of the night) and see you throwing up all night,
feeling pretty shit the next day and that's it, and the other, much worse, will
come on slower and last several days. The difference is probably the strength
of the poison, how well formed it was when ingested it and if viral or bacterial.
The latter is more serious and could be something much nastier. There are literary
dozens of different strains of both and it's pointless to cover them here, but most
encountered (normally bacterial) aren't too serious.
Best advice: don't get paranoid about food poisoning otherwise
it can ruin a trip and your experiences of some great food. Just allow time
for it and take the rough with the smooth, as it were - there is very little
you can do about it once the poison is inside you apart from avoiding dehydration
(Gatorade type sports drinks are much easier to drink than water and will replace
a little energy/salt) and let it come out of you (in whatever form - NB
severe and continual vomiting that is preventing you from keeping water
down and/or retching for long periods can be treated by tablets or an injection;
either way consult a doctor if symptoms are persisting. Staff in your hotel
will normally help you find medical help or bring you water et cetera
if on your own). See diarrhoea and dehydration below as it is normally a symptom
of food poisoning, for more advice. And remember keep you own hands
clean before you eat.
Some of the easiest places to get ill are where there are
large numbers of tourists and the locals have adapted by offering western type
food. Nepal and Ecuador are good examples. You might never have a problem in
India, eating Indian food, but suffer in Nepal eating western food. To quote
from a book about climbing Mount Everest, the author stated that the hardest
challenge with mountaineering in Nepal is not getting sick in Kathmandu! But
that doesn't mean that every trip to Nepal, India or the like will see you with
the runs or throwing up; a normal healthy experience is quite possible with
a bit of common sense and a fair size chunk of luck. It goes without saying
that the longer you are away the higher your chances of picking something up
becomes although equally you will build up resistance over time.
The 'boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it!' adage is
well documented. So are all the cold salads, ice cubes in drinks, fruit juices,
hand-made ice creams, raw food and buffet warnings. Bacteria and injected water
can be inside melons, so it's best to avoid melons. In reality you can never
know - personally I've eaten all of the above which are risky, and been fine,
but do believe that eating a carnivorous diet you run a much higher chance of
getting ill (chicken is often reheated). Just remember, you may go a year and
not have a problem or get ill on your first day in somewhere like Crete. It's
something of a lottery.
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Diarrhoea Chances are you will probably get some form of
diarrhoea at sometime during a long trip. A distinction should
be drawn between general 'travellers' diarrhoea, and severe diarrhoea.
The former which is more of an annoyance than a major problem, can normally
be clocked up to changes in diet, time-zone, irregular eating and general
stress. The latter, more severe forms can be totally incapacitating
and normally coupled with vomiting and a case of more serious food poisoning.
So many things can be responsible for a case of the squits, many point
the finger at water, poor hygiene in cooking and general. Quite often
it can be the result of getting other people's faeces in your mouth.
The dirty culprits are normally cooks not washing their hands after
a trip to the toilet, but even if the restaurant cook does not understand
basic hygiene you will be safe if your food has been properly cooked
and arrives piping hot. Whatever causes it or wherever it came from
doesn't really matter - try to let diarrhoea pass through you with plenty
of water, a basic diet and maybe try apple sliced very thin then left
to turn brown. |
With many travellers expecting diarrhoea, it comes
as a surprise that constipation can be common. Drink plenty of
water, eat fruit and have some natural laxatives at hand. If need be,
massage your own belly with your hands and with your muscles (by flattening
and bulging your belly) as this sort of activates your intestines. Drinking
coffee or (herbal) tea can also help. |
The
equatorial and Australian sun is vicious and although
you can't really avoid some exposure, there is no point in incurring it needlessly.
Basically, build up your exposure gradually and cover up in the middle of the
day. Be particularly careful when swimming or snorkelling, at altitude, when
on open transport or any other actively that prolongs your exposure to midday
sun such as hiking. Common-sense really, but getting burnt really isn't fun
as most will be able to testify, however a paranoid approach during day to day
activities and zero exposure is unnecessary.
Rabies can be carried
by any mammal, normally monkeys, dogs or any wild animal behaving in an unusually
tame manner (just give them a wide berth). Any suspect bite should be scrubbed
under running water for five minutes and flooded with diluted iodine or other
disinfectant. A post-bite injection is needed as soon as possible, even if you
have paid out and suffered the immunization
jabs. The further from the brain the bite is the longer the incubation period
(which can be quite long). Do make sure you get an injection within a day or
three (unless the bite is to the face) no matter how far from civilisation you
are. Once symptoms appear, death from rabies is probably the worst way to go.
Tetanus is caught from deep, dirty wounds including animal bites. Make
sure wounds are thoroughly cleaned and that you have had the immunisation that
gives good protection for ten years. If not, get a booster as quickly as possible.
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There are several books dedicated to staying
healthy abroad, the majority of which are complete overkill and
play on people's fears to sell copies. The health sections in Lonely
Planet's titles are on the whole, nothing but recycled crap with no
real advice. Some of the best info on travel health can be found in
Footprint guides,
notably the Footprint South
America Handbook.
Just to put things in proportion, the following guide was taken from 1000 travel tips and was compiled by R. Steffen from the WHO. He has published a nice series on medical problems encountered by travellers going to tropical countries. Here's his list of problem frequencies for travellers staying one month: |
Altitude sicknessAt high altitude (above
2500m/8000ft) take it easy until you have acclimatised. Altitude
sickness often gives you no more than a killer headache, breathlessness
and a slow brain feeling above 3000m. It sets on you about half an hour
after you have hit a summit and will often give you a sleepless, breathless
night. Anyone can get it bad even if they have been at high altitude
before, but acute altitude sickness is a lot less likely than
stories you hear and read make out. If you do get it, the only cure
is to come down from altitude. Coca tea can help, but the side effects
of pills (tingling hands) sold in Kathmandu, can for some, be worse
than any mild case. The power of the sun at altitude is a danger much
more worthy of your concern.
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Medical problem
Percentage
Any problem
55%
Felt sick
25%
Visited a doctor
8%
Had to stay in bed
6%
Could not go to work afterwards
2%
Diarrhoea
Travellers diarrhoea
30-80%
Severe diarrhoea
6%
Malaria
Malaria in W-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis
2.4%
Malaria in E-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis
1.5%
Other places: see footnote*
-
Hepatitis
Hepatitis
-
Hepatitis A: see footnote**
0.3 to 2%
Hepatitis B***
0.085%
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As a final note, take a look at the
what to pack
first aid kit list, but don't go mad - you can always buy medication
when travelling (cheaper and more compact) and this is the one thing
that gets everyone extra paranoid, so most go over the top when packing.
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Table Footnotes: |
Moving around.. that's why they call it travelling. You end
up doing a lot of it: sitting on buses, trains and taxis - at best; at worst,
night buses, the back of pick-up trucks or below-par boats.
Travelling, it's a great leveller - everyone needs to spend time getting places.
It's something you will have to get used to and the fact is, it's not always
very comfortable. You'll also probably not be prepared for how far distances
are (for example Chile top to bottom is the same as Lagos to London!) and how
bad roads can be. Paul Theroux hit the nail on the head when he wrote 'travel
is glamorous only in retrospect'.
You really need to look at the
country summaries for exact details, since transport
and options vary dramatically from country to country. Some countries will have
fantastic train systems (India, China) in others, rollerskates would be more
useful. Developed countries will normally have good roads, but bus/train prices
are generally pretty expensive and hiring/buying a car may be a much better
option. The roads and distances in less developed countries, especially crossing
mountains or high areas can mean even though buses are cheap, every now and
again an air ticket makes sense. And then there are the dreaded night buses,
all of which are mentioned below:
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Backpacker Buses In destinations like Australia, New Zealand and
South Africa, backpacker hop-on/hop-off type buses run. Do not commit
yourself to these at home (even with small discounts offered) - they
sound a good idea, but for many aren't and they are not recommended
here unless you are travelling alone or have very limited time. These
buses are nowhere near as wild as their operators like to make out and
can be full of idiots that you have no other choice but to travel with.
In essence you are buying into a tour and paying more for something
you could do yourself with greater satisfaction. Really these sorts
of buses only become a good option in destinations where public transport
is very limited/expensive, if you need to be guaranteed social interaction
and if getting hold of a car is not an option for you (too expensive,
can't drive or share costs with anyone). |
» Shared taxis/jeeps and bush
taxis: There are many routes worldwide where onward transport is both harsh
and impractical. In these cases taxi drivers or car owners can be approached
for a price (they normally offer). This price is going to be high so you really
need to split it between three/four. These taxis generally leave from a set
point (when full) and although are generally used for short legs where there
is no or limited public transport, but the route is fairly standard, (for example
from a border town to the border), in many cases they do make longer trips.
For longer trips they are perhaps the fastest and most comfortable of all four
wheeled transport options if not too crowded. The front seat, if you can bag
it - being the most comfortable and sometimes with the added luxury of (stop-press)
a seat-belt!
Negotiating a fair price for the trip can be tricky since
there is unlikely to be any 'standard' fare (or certainly not one you will know
about) and the driver might want money for the return leg. Rates in guidebooks
are always out-of-date when published and seasonal variations can have an affect.
If you are traveling by this means regularly the best method is to find out
how far the destination is so you can work it back to a price per/km for comparison
to other trips and make it seem like you are not in any hurry or urgency to
leave.
A bush taxi or taxi brousse is a West African phenomenon
(particularly French West Africa) and in no way comfortable. Bush taxis are
always private, but rarely does the driver own the vehicle, and are effectively
a small bus. Almost without exception a bush taxi will leave when full (or when
all seats are sold) not by a timetable. Depending on the popularity of the route
this can take half an hour or even several days. If you are early you can choose
where you sit: late comers have no choice - sitting in the front is the best
and worst is the back (the side with no shade is also pretty bad). If a bush/private
taxi looks like it is going to get uncomfortably full or take ages to fill,
you can buy extra seats at the same price as your one or even charter the whole
thing. In some cases you are going to be asked for more money for a big bag.
On some occasions when the taxi is taking ages to fill up some passengers will
club together to buy remaining seats and get going. If this happens or you personally
buy an extra seat, don't expect a discount - time is not money in the third
world. Best get a bush taxi early in the morning or on a market day. There are
a few different types of bush taxi in West Africa, most a moving form of torture.
To find out more see the West
African country summaries.
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» Flying: It's sometimes the case that internal flights are great value for money, a godsend and commonly overlooked by budget travellers. Certainly in the developed world, flying can be cheaper than the overland option, but more often than not it's a more expensive luxury option, but you save a hell of a lot of time and more importantly sanity, especially when crossing difficult terrain such as mountains or water. Not to mention as so many times is the case, where overland travel just simply isn't possible or physical/visa barriers create major hassle. Many budget travellers think they can't afford flights, but if you are lucky, do your homework and try and book early, costs aren't prohibitive and if you allow for a few in your budget you will feel a lot happier especially if doing a big trip over long distances. Tickets are easy to pick up while away and please remember that flights are always cheapest in their originating country or booked on the budget carriers website. |
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The huge
growth in budget airlines, aka. low-cost
carriers and technology means many carriers now operate good websites
and issue e-tickets. Take a look at the
budget airline list in the links section and make a few searches (try
Air Asia for example) to
see just how easy and cheap flying has now become. It's worth noting that this
explosion has happened in Asia and Europe of course with North America (inc.
Mexico) not far behind, but South America and Africa are practically miles behind
- see regional low-down below. The only warning to offer is that this
is no secret and on notoriously painful routes in peak seasons (say Christmas),
popular legs like Bombay to Goa get booked pretty solid and prices go through
the roof.
Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific: Prior to 2000 cheap-fare alternatives to Qantas and Ansett had failed, but then came Virgin Blue and Jetstar, which both have excellent domestic coverage with fares from about 35USD - (Jetstar now being the budget arm of Qantas). Virgin Blue also flies to the Pacific Islands (getting to Fiji, Tongo or Samoa, will cost about 400USD return) and Jetstar into Asia - Bali and Bangkok among others. Also worth a mention are Rex (Regional Express) on the East coast, Skywest on the West coast (worth noting for Perth to Broome (skipping the Gibb River Road)) and Air North for the northern half. Between Australia and New Zealand, Pacific Blue has cheap flights from about 150USD and competition is fierce with Jetconnect (see Qantas NZ site) and Jetstar. Between Oz and NZ routes such as Brisbane to Christchurch and Melbourne to Dunedin make exploring much more effective than the standard Sydney to Auckland route.
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South East Asia: The main payers are Tiger
Airways (www.tigerairways.com
) which has a great routes and can connect you to the Philippines dirt
cheap and Jetstar Asia Airways (www.jetstarasia.com),
these two are based in Singapore which was home to the regions first
budget airline. Across the border AirAsia (www.airasia.com)
is very useful for Borneo and getting to islands of Penang and Langkawi;
they are expanding fast and offer a Bangkok to Hanoi route for about
50US$ which is incredibly handy - as well as loads of other routes and
sometimes (promotional) silly prices. Thailand's Nok Air (www.nokair.com)
also has a burgeoning network from Bangkok and Pacific Airlines (www.pacificairlines.com.vn)
of Vietnam seems to be making the restructuring steps to be come a low-cost
carrier too. Indonesia's Adam Air, doesn't have the best reputation,
but Air Asia and Lion Air (www.lionair.co.id)
or good alternative and can get you from Jakarta to Bali for (if you
get the timing right) about 40US$ |
Indian and Sri Lanka: 2003 saw the launch
of the first Indian low-cost: Air Deccan which had great prices, but
some bizarre fare rules and since has inspired many imitators (note
Air Deccan is now called Kingfisher Red (www.flykingfisher.com)).
Routes are numerous so best to check the carriers websites or the India
section of this site for a better overview. Remember also this is India
and what can go wrong (delays, cancellations, etc) probably will. Good
carriers include, SpiceJet
www.spicejet.com),
GoAir (www.goair.in),
and IndiGo Airlines (www.goindigo.in).
With Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com)
and Jet Airlines (www.jetairways.com)
included you have coverage of about 50 domestic destinations and several
international including London. Many of these airlines offer passes
if you really want to see a lot in short time, but considering distances
in India you might find some fares not inline with the average Indian
travel budget. Both Sri Lankan Airways and Mihin Air can get you to
Sri Lanka. |
Africa: As with much in Africa, things are patchy
at best with as you might expect, few low-cost set up airlines. In South Africa,
Kulula (www.kulula.com)
has an expanding network in Southern Africa and Mango (www.flymango.com)
is South African Airlines response. Also worth a mention is Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com)
domestic in Tanzania and Fly540 (www.fly540.com)
in Kenya - with very few routes at present it seems keen on expanding and hopefully
so in a continent where getting from North, South, East, West by air can be
stupidly expensive.
Middle East: Air Arabia is the Middle East's
first low cost airline and has some great value flights around gulf states and
further airfield to India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan, among others. It's based
in Sharjah which is a little bit of pricey taxi ride north of Dubai. While hops
around the gulf won't be of much interest to most travellers, the potential
to use cheap flights from Europe and particular London to Dubai as a stepping-stone
to other more interesting destinations might be. On to India is great value
and there are some interesting routes into Central Asia, Nepal and Yemen. Another
mention is Jazeera Airways (www.jazeeraairways.com),
which has flights from Kuwait and Dubai to India, Egypt, etc, with
plans for more routes.
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In developing countries.. on the whole it is never really a problem finding a guesthouse room (the word hotel is used for the most part in this section) for the night or another place to stay (read on for info on developed countries and hostels) outside of the odd peak period (e.g. national holidays or traveller peak season in smaller towns). In general, certainly within the developing world, where there is a demand it will be met in some form. |
It is however, a good idea to book accommodation for your first night if arriving late in the day or a little low on travel confidence. You can book this room by various means (guide book and an international phone call for example), but if you want to do so on the web, you can using this site, which it is appreciated - see the where to stay page. |
At
the budget end rooms vary dramatically in quality and value. Finding a good
room or a good deal is more of an art than a science. The normal approach for
most travellers is to go through their guidebooks, scanning for any hidden hints.
Let's Go at least lists hotels in preference and Footprint works on readers'
recommendations, but other than those, guidebooks leave you in the dark; many
good places to stay made famous by guidebooks become crowded, noisy, full of
themselves and non flexible on price.
A guidebook
is a great guide
when you first arrive, but don't think you have to stay in a hotel listed within
its pages; there are many choices and hey, guidebooks openly state they don't
stay in the hotels, yet give recommendations on them! Go figure. It's also nice
to give an unlisted little guy a shot at some tourist dollars. The most important
factors are cleanliness, quiet, safety and price - you can rank these as you
see fit. You get a pretty good feeling from a place just popping in and seeing
a room - remember, if you think it has potential, but don't like the room you
saw (often the nearest and noisiest) ask to see another. Also it is often worth
asking for a little discount, especially for multiple nights. If you have the
energy, try to look at a few hotels to compare - normally just by saying 'well
thanks, but we normally check out a few places' the price might drop.
You can have a lot of success finding the main noisy traveller hotel area,
then heading back a few streets to some random hotels that have never been in
any guidebooks, and getting some fantastic, very quiet and great priced rooms.
Many travellers also have a lot of success with slightly more mid-range hotels
(just above the 'budget' price range and sometimes aimed at domestic business
travellers) and slightly smarter looking places (particularly in low seasons).
It takes a little nerve going in, hoping that they do give you a good price
- seeing as most of their rooms might be empty - and not the normal price that
you probably don't want to pay. On many occasions you find yourself in really
nice rooms with cable TV and fluffy white towels, for only a few dollars more
(and sometimes no more) than the standard budget option. Although with looking
for a slightly nicer rooms in poorer countries you can run into the law of diminishing
returns pretty quickly, where paying a lot more gets you little extra after
a certain point.
NoiseThe biggest problem can often be noise.
Traffic, incessant horns and people are often very loud, plus with rooms
set up for hot weather, glass and walls are thin. This can be very frustrating
if you need to get an early start next morning. |
ToutsSince supply normally outstrips demand in Asia
and North Africa especially, you might find yourself besieged by
touts, often working on commission. The hassle these guys give you
normally makes you wary of them, but they can be useful if you are having
problems finding a room. In addition they can get you to some nice out
of the way places you would of have never discovered otherwise, with
killer prices since they don't have a guidebook listing. Not all touts
are working for commission. Sometimes a family-owned guesthouse sends
out a family member, getting you an invite to a nice honest, homely
establishment. And just because you go with a tout doesn't mean you
have to stay where they recommend. It also pays to find out how far
they are taking you before you march off. To find a really good room
you need patience, for sure, but more importantly, a good measure of
luck. |
Remember, if you are paying extra for anything in a room like a bathroom, TV or AC, make sure it works when you see the room. Cheaper rooms in developing countries very rarely have sprung mattress (foam is most common) and sometimes have protective plastic covers over them under the sheets. Coupled with noise levels, heat (see below) and the standard, single often hard pillow when using cheaper accommodation, this can take a little getting used to (particularly when coming directly from home) and will generally result in a few restless nights. In hot climates you may also find the lack of a top sheet. Asking the staff normally gets you one, but here's where a sleeping sac comes in pretty useful.
Why is it so darn hot in here?Heat is the other major factor that in many situations
affects you getting a good night's sleep. Expect most days you are away
in tropical countries to be pretty hot depending on the time of year.
The temperature outside pretty much always drops at night, but in many
rooms it doesn't. This is normally because rooms really heat up in the
day, especially small ones, and even with a fan on the hot air has nowhere
to go. When it's really hot, in some of the ovens that pass as rooms,
it is not unknown to wake up on wet sheets (from
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In
developed countries, noise and heat is rarely a problem, but accommodation
is more limited and on the whole not cheap (a budget double room (dorms will
of course be cheaper) in a Sydney or New York hostel will cost around US$60).
In Europe and some other places you can find a few little cheap hotels, motels,
guesthouses or B&Bs, but for the rest and certainly in big cities, hostels
will be a staple. In developed countries (for example: Western Europe, Australia,
Japan and the USA (New Zealand & South Africa, both less of a problem)), accommodation
and finding it is an entirely different ball game compared to the second and
third world and if on a budget you will certainly have to make use of hostels
at some point which get very crowded during peak seasons.
The term hostel
is used in this section, but a distinction should be made between a 'hostel'
in the traditional mould and a 'backpackers'. They are essentially the same,
somewhere cheap to stay with limited space. However the later is far more common
in that it is geared towards travellers, generally providing among other things:
a common area, internet, local/tourist information, a homely feel and young
English-speaking staff - with a constant fixture being 20 or 30somethings hanging
out on laptops, self-catering or chatting away. Some love this culture and stay
for weeks, others loath it. This is compared to the traditional 'hostel' such
as the YMCA/YWCA or YHA network which have their origins from far before global
travel was common (YHA dates back to 1909 Germany, the YMCA to 1844 London)
and were there to provide for a generally different type of person looking for
somewhere to stay. To that end many of these hostels (although some are excellent)
are more strict, sterile, are much larger in size (catering to larger groups)
and lack the fun plus communal feeling of many 'backpackers'. Equally you'll
find the odd hotel that converts part of their building to a hostel, which normally
has a similar (or worse) style.
What you will find on the whole (especially when picking the smaller establishments)
and are referred to from here on as hostels are indeed to a great extent 'backpackers'
- a name often used in Australia and South Africa that is perhaps unfitting
as everyone is welcome, but does well to make the distinction between and throw
off the dull/poor reputation some big urban crash-pad 'hostels' had. Once you've
stayed in a few, you can term them as you like.
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The number of hostels and more notably 'backpackers'
around the world over the past few years have increased dramatically
and they are finding there way into more and more destinations (for
example the numbers in the likes of Rio, Singapore and Buenos Aires
have increased many fold over the last few years). However, they vary
dramatically from excellent (NZ and South Africa) to good, bad and just
awful. They are generally at their worst during peak seasons/times when
full. During these times (European/US Summer and most weekends), in
any big city, it is wise to book ahead or at least check availability
online with
Hostelbookers (see right) or similar. |
Booking hostels and budget accommodation in advanceAs outlined, in some cases and periods it not only
makes sense to book in advance in order to get a good room, but is total
necessary for peace of mind. If you do a search on Google for
say 'cheap accommodation in' 'Paris', 'New York' or 'Sydney' you will
find thousands of results mostly from resellers working on commission.
Hostelworld and HostelBooker are two such companies and the most established
with the largest networks running search engines and booking facility
for around eight and a half thousand places in 150 odd countries, but
it should be noted they are not complete
listings with big gaps in places. |
For the most comfortable, private and best value nights,
book and stay in slightly more expensive rooms (with less beds and sometimes
on-suite) as these normally are the least popular and the have lowest occupancies.
In addition try to time any visit to a big city, particularly within Western
Europe during mid-week when hostels are half full and not during major sporting
or other events. Also if it's near the top of the guidebook list it's going
to be packed. Look out for newly opened hostels and read reviews from others
who have stayed in these places (there are many sites with hostel reviews).
In Europe primarily, University accommodation converts to hostels
accommodation during summer months - these are a
good bet for a room, but you won't find them in any internet searches or guidebooks.
In NZ (and others, such as the excellent Southern African
Coast to Coast)
there are fantastic hostel guides with ratings compiled from yearly surveys,
distances from town centres and facilities. These are free to pick up and mean
you never need to use your guidebook. The
BBH in New Zealand
is the best and really shows up guidebook listings. A
YHA card can get you some discount,
but you won't use it that often; the same goes for
Hosteling International
- but both are good networks.
VIP is another
similar network mainly in Australia/NZ, where you pay upfront for a discount
card. Some find great value, others dislike the style of hostel and don't use
the card enough to recover the initial cost.
Lastly be wary of the more
traditional style of hostels that have lock-outs from say 1000-1600 when everyone
has to get out for cleaning. These are common in some of Europe and especially
in Japan - the bathroom goes mad at 0930!
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Couch Surfing is another relavatively new and frequently raved
about option. The concept is based around a free project to exchange hospitality.
The simple idea is you host others and they host you. The net result
is not just a free nights accommodation, but a changed perspective
on travel and an authentic experience by meeting and staying with locals.
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Crime
is one of the most difficult things to write about in context in this guide.
Dwelling on the subject must inevitably fuel paranoia in first-time travellers,
yet glossing over it can only place inexperienced travellers at greater risk
of being robbed. Simplistically, you need to recognise three things. The
first is that Asian and Africa (and to a lesser extent Latin American) society
is inherently far more law-abiding than our own (to the extent that criminals
are stoned in some countries). The second is that thieves will be present on
your trip, as they are everywhere, and they often target westerners, who are
not only reliably wealthy relative to locals, but who also are very easy to
spot. And thirdly, a little bit of paranoia never hurt anyone - take care and
you will have a great trip. Ignore this advice and you might end up with nothing
and your trip in ruins - I've seen it happen at close quarters too many times.
A degree of discrimination and caution is appropriate when you travel,
but only a degree. Bear in mind that people with a criminal intent make up a
tiny fraction of less than 1% of the population, so that an attitude of indiscriminate
paranoia, wherever you are, can only divert your attention away from genuinely
suspicious characters. Experience suggests that the vast majority of crimes
against tourists occur in one of a few specific places and/or reasonably predictable
circumstances. Imagine those that will cause you trouble (minor or major) are
like four leaf clovers. We all know they exist, but very few have actually come
across one. Nevertheless the longer you spend in the grass the higher your chances
become of finding one.
As
commonly stated when they cannot be stored safely elsewhere (such as you are
on a bus with your main bag), keep all your important documents and most of
your money, in a money-belt or similar that can be worn beneath your
clothing in a manner that makes it invisible to casual observers. Some travellers
seem to carry all their money and documents with them at all times (not just
when on the move). Normally in a money belt sometimes not even under their clothing
- this is always good for a laugh. Not only did they not splash out on reasonable
clothing with secure pockets or make any effort to secure pockets/money, but
keeping your money belt on the outside of your clothing is like displaying your
family jewels on your front door step. Under or over clothing, it's uncomfortable
in hot weather and it will almost certainly be removed if you are actually mugged.
Do however keep your money belt on or at close hand when travelling on a bus/train
and separated from your main bag unless it is at very close hand and 100% secure.
You should avoid disclosing the presence of this belt in public,
so keep spending money in a pocket or elsewhere (better to lose a few bucks
once in a while that everything along with your passport). It is also advisable
to keep a reasonable amount of currency well hidden in your luggage (US$/€100
bill) as something to fall back on. One of the best places to carry money is
in the top pocket of a shirt (some put a handkerchief or tissue on top of it
as an extra measure). Or inside a pocket (zipped) that's inside a pocket, or
in a pouch/purse/wallet attached to your clothing. Don't carry your money around
in a big wallet: take out just what you need for the day and maybe your student
and ATM/credit card (don't carry these around unnecessarily). A big paper clip
works well as a money clip and is a good way to deal with the large amounts
of notes you end up with. See comment for some
more advice and testament that there are loads of variations in keeping your
money safe - it's what works for you.
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If you are really sensible... always keep a spare stash in your back/watch pocket or other zipped up and/or secure place. You should also keep in there: a photocopy of your passport and your insurance emergency phone number; plus (if you don't have them stored on-line) the stolen hotline number for your ATM/credit cards and a note of any other important info. |
Always keep a record of what funds you have stashed, so if anything does
go missing you'll know instantly. Personally I'd would leave my money belt
almost anywhere in preference to walking with it through downtown Johannesburg,
Cusco, Delhi, Bogotá, San Jose or Nairobi (to name a few) after dark.
Another important measure to take is to lock your bag up when
not in the room with it or when someone else is in the room. If necessary
(i.e. when windows don't lock or in a dodgy place) lock/chain it to something.
In addition, make sure your real valuables are well hidden. A little cash,
old passport/old credit card can be used as a decoy. Normally you should
have far greater reservations regarding the security of serviced mid-range
hotels than the flimsiest of security at rural family run establishments.
It's a good idea to bring your own padlock, preferably a combination lock,
to put on the door if possible (but then again if you don't trust the place
that much, why are you staying there?). When out and about and travelling
(i.e. on a bus), always know where your bag is and if you can keep
an eye on it, making sure it is stored securely or locked to something if
in doubt. Your passport/money should be on your person. This is very important
with a small bag and on overnight trains where theft is rampant.
The best place to keep any jewellery or the likes of anything with
high financial or sentimental value is at home.
This is relatively rare and only really occurs in Latin America and Africa and then normally at night in large cities. If you are going to get robbed/attacked then there's little you can do about it and you are very unlucky, but that's why we have insurance. There are plenty of fools about and you hear only a few stories of something bad happening to someone without them doing something a little stupid or naïve, like walking around randomly at night or being drunk. That said you can go a long way to avoid being mugged by applying the same sort of judgment you might in any large city. Don't flaunt your wealth - this means don't wear any jewellery and avoid tourist trappings such as a daypack, camera bag and external money-belt. Use a taxi to get around obvious trouble spots and at night. If you do walk at night (especially when alone) avoid unlit roads, parks and quiet alleys.
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It's pretty sensible you take a taxi to your hotel when you first arrive in any developing world city - wearing a large backpack is like saying 'hey, I have got loads of valuables on me: rob me' and in somewhere like Nairobi or Delhi it's likely somebody might take up the challenge. And it is really asking for trouble if you arrive in a big city after dark, particularly one where the budget accommodation is dispersed and go walkabouts in search of a room. Likewise if you decide to go off trekking anywhere (particularly in Latin America) find out at length whether there is any risk in the area you are planning to walk and think carefully about what you take. This is cited in particular reference to Guatemala where hikers even in large groups are frequently robbed walking around Lago Atitlán and climbing volcanoes without guides. It always makes sense to ask. Remember criminal activity is normally always focused around tourist hot spots. One would imagine in the northern hills of Guatemala you could leave a tent for weeks without anyone even touching it. |
As recommended in virtually every guidebook, when in major cities
such as Cape Town or Rio, ditch as much luggage as possible (how
about all?), especially day sacs. This advice applies only really
to sub-Sahara Africa and a few areas of South America where
daylight muggings do occur: Leave as much as possible at your hotel/hostel
or better still at home. Don't wear any jewellery and certainly
not a nice watch. All you need is enough money for that day - nothing
else, especially not your ATM card. Don't walk around at leisure
with your pack even in the day or in supposedly safe areas - a taxi
or bus is well worth it.
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» On public transport:
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» Confidence tricks:Confidence tricks are perhaps the biggest annoyance and danger
to any traveller to a less developed country. These type of tricks
which, it has to be said, are a mainly urban phenomenon, range from
the downright predictable and harmless 'Do you remember me?', 'I
am going to university in your home town' or 'Would you like to
have a drink with my family' (turns out you are visiting the family's
shop or get a US$10 bill for a cup of tea). These sorts of lines
you get wise to very quickly. If you fall for them - which is not
that difficult - lose you only a few dollars and gain you a ton
of experience. The other side is far more sinister, often involving
bogus policemen and sometimes drugs.
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Most casual thieves and pickpockets operate in busy markets
and bus/train stations, so keep a close watch on your possessions in such places.
Bus stations in Latin America see a fair few bags go missing from those who
idly watch them or are easily distracted (it doesn't take much to lock or clip
a bag to a fixed object). When catching a bus, having a (as in only one) compact
bag makes life much easier. Simply aim to get out of bus stations quickly, pay
attention during any crush getting on and off town buses and follow the advice
given above regarding how to carry your money.
Quite
frankly there is no reason to carry around anything near to a large sum of money
or important documents in your pockets. If you have been to the ATM or bank,
drop it off or secure it first. If you don't, you only have yourself to blame.
The raise of portable electronic devices such as mobile phones, digital
cameras or MP3 players which almost all travellers seem to take away with them
has resulted in an equally matched rise in the number of these items disappearing.
Whereas the vast, vast majority of the world has in general low levels of violent
crime and a low threat of terrorism or other dangerous activities, petty theft,
however, is becoming increasingly common, and travellers should take precautions,
especially with mobile phones, digital cameras, and other small electronics
which are easily “misplaced.”
'Just like there are two different types of people, there are
two different types of days travelling: M and F. Well F stands for fine, now
most people think M stands for miserable - wrong, memorable. Many travellers
like to remind themselves that a bad day travelling is better than a good day
at work'.
On the once excellent (now over commercial) Lonely Planet
website there is a section called postcards, which mainly consists of notes
written by those who have been unlucky enough to fall victim to crime to warn
others of it. On the whole this is completely unrepresentative and tends to
make you quite nervous, but is always worth a read as it's a good reference
of the latest scams and will make sure you keep your guard up with a measure
of paranoia in the best possible way. Remember, better a little paranoid than
naïve and the victim of crime.
Remember most incidence of theft abroad are of opportune the 'sticky finger'
variety, compared to something more sinister: make sure bags and side
pockets are locked at all times and anything you carry on your person is also
secure. Never carry with you more than you need and
think twice when walking anywhere after dark There isn't a city
in the world, be it Zürich or Nairobi where at the wrong place and wrong time,
given an easy opportunity you'll end up with something pinched.
In many destinations worldwide, dealing with the day-to-day hassle of
touts, street vendors and the constant need to bargain is just something you will
have to get used to, especially in North Africa and the Asian Sub-Continent.
Beggars are a more universal problem: hell, there are quite a few
even in the richest countries. Nevertheless, beggars differ quite substantially
in the less developed world. With a large proportion of its population living
in poverty, even those with homes and jobs, those who do beg can be considered
in dire straits: they are often women, children and the ill or disabled.
Your heart strings are easily tugged by child beggars and the very poor
or unfortunate: landmine victims, those with multiple sclerosis or polio,
victims of earthquakes or other recent disasters. Those are just a few examples
- the point is guilt can over ride you (see more
about guilt later). You live in comfort and have everything,
compared to their nothing. But such feelings of benevolence cannot be sustained,
such is the volume of human misery around the world and you soon, in many
cases, become impervious to it. Those who set off on a third world trip
with notions of philanthropy will soon be overwhelmed and cut short.
In developing countries you will, whether you like it or not be perceived as far
wealthier than you probably are and most beggars, street sellers or whomever, will have difficulty in
distinguishing the different budgets and aims of different travellers - which is maybe a nice way of saying everyone will want a piece of you. This is tough, since when
travelling in poorer countries you will feel guilty and would have to be pretty cold not to
recognise the gulf of wealth between you and a beggar or someone flogging
items on the street.
However, it is constantly tiring, dehumanising and a major pain to be
constantly
treated like a walking bank. Likewise your compassion is tested when your trip is compromised by sometimes
constant hassle and when you consider
that begging can be big business.
Children are often begging because they have been sent out to do so, often
in gangs and some beggars directly target tourists. Reiterating what you'll
find below under responsible tourism: do not give to beggars that are
specifically targeting tourists and especially not to children (not
pens, sweets or anything) something most travellers flaunt. Of course compassion
is required, but it can more effectively delivered through some of the ethical
considerations below and also by giving in small quantities where locals
give (make a point of giving if you have not been asked) and/or to schools
plus recognised charities. In the long run however you can (and probably
will) just get very worn down by beggars - read on how to deal with hassle.
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The same goes for operators (be them hotel or tour) and especially
rickshaw drivers who hack up a price or maintain they misunderstood
your agreement. Again be firm and don't get bullied. If necessary
leave the agreed money on the rickshaw seat (they often will not
take it by hand) and just walk off. You soon learn to be firm and
very clear in agreeing prices/services. Make sure you are understood
and do not give into any, 'yes, yes' or 'as you like' agreements
or acknowledgements. In places like India, with the right (smiley,
not ultra-serious) attitude and use of eye contact, you will get
a lot less hassle after a few weeks.
Comment:
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Constant
bargaining is something else you will probably have to deal with
and it really is (in 8/10 cases, but which ones?) a they win, you lose situation,
as the smart seller's way is normally to massively inflate the price for
ignorant tourists. The actual price can be up to ten times less than the
starting price and it is when you hear these quotations and know the correct/fair
price and have to spend so much time and effort to achieve something close
to it, is when you get so frustrated. If so count to ten and move onto the
next vendor and make it clear why you are doing so. This almost always happens
in locations that have a large tourist footfall. Many traders are honest
and getting a little ripped-off is just a fact of travelling - after all,
you can afford it, so don't get too enthusiastic or disillusioned.
This subject still needs more explanation as it's often misrepresented
in guide books and by other travellers, who sometimes assert that every
price is negotiable. This is a half truth, almost always applicable to souvenir
sellers, taxi, rickshaw etc. drivers and a few others that become clear
when on the road, but not always in other situations depending in large
measure on the nature of the country you are in.
Prices are always going to be higher in a sellers market than a buyers
one, so if you need something like a long distance ride in a taxi or a souvenir
where there is much competition don't get too enthusiastic and waiting to
be approached rather than approaching works wonders. Equally the western
mentality of asking a price and retreating if not interested can be considered
as an insult. Bottom line is if you don't have serious intentions of buying
- don't ask the price and certainly don't start negotiating, doing so will
only invite hassle.
It goes without saying that the problem facing the traveller going from
town to town and country to country is knowing when they are being asked
a fair price, and thus hitting the right balance between politely paying
up and aggressive posturing to establish if they are being ripped off. To
complicate the matter further is the notion of a fixed price, as locals
will bargain as well. The best approach is to visit a few stalls and get
a feel for a price (walking away will always lower a very high price) and
if a stall owner is reluctant to negotiate, you can assume you have a fair
price. Likewise quotations that start with the word 'around' or 'something
like' are certainly far off realistic.
Conversely, if buying a 'daily item' like a bottle of water, ice cream,
bus ticket or similar, and you find yourself in a bargaining situation,
where maybe the seller has dropped the price after your hesitation, don't
bargain. These are not items anyone bargains for and you are simply being
ripped-off. In the event tell the vendor to get knotted and walk to another
seller. However let's keep things in perspective, in experience it is
only in areas with a high tourist volume that absurd prices are asked
and everyone seems keen to add their own 'little commission'.
As stated, tourist souvenir sellers (especially African curio sellers
and mass tourism areas of Asia) in particular always ask an inflated price.
These are often so whimsical that you can't really have a rule of thumb.
But even when buying curio (African wooden carvings) and similar, you
can bargain too far. Have watched a couple off an overland truck in
Malawi buy a carving which the seller wanted the equivalent of US$10 for.
It was a nice piece and probably took about two to three days to make. Generally
the going price for an item like this would be US$7 which the seller soon
dropped to. However the couple then spent the next 15 minutes getting him
down to US$5. Another example that was e-mailed, was in Sumatra, where one
of a tourist group hassled a stall keeper to a point where she sold an item
for a 5 cent profit. This sort of behaviour is disgraceful and goes on all
the time (see the 'value of your money' write up in the following section).
Rather than giving to beggars, consider being a little generous when dealing
with individual souvenir and fruit sellers (not large stalls).
One argument often heard is that travellers have
an ethical duty to bargain prices as low as possible, otherwise they
risk triggering inflation that will eventually put goods out of the
reach of locals.
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Overcharging on transport, private or otherwise, is common place in many countries and there is little you can do about it except be philosophical. Nobody likes being ripped off but if that's the price, you have to pay it and if it is a little inflated then why should a few dollars extra ruin your day/trip? That said, always arrange a price before you get into a taxi or any other mode of transport: ask a local if unsure. Some drivers are very good with 'as you like' or 'cheap' type sayings, mimicking bad English. Be firm - don't get bullied. If there is no meter, agree a fair price before you set off. |
Note this section
is of most relevance for travel outside the developed world.
It is perhaps a little boring to say, but we in the West take too many things for granted and are shielded from destitution,
starvation, poor sanitation and lack of basic resources. For someone
raised in a developed country the first exposure with the developing
world will always be something of shock. However concerned and well read someone might
be about 'global wealth distribution' or other similar issues, being confronted with the reality is totally
different from dealing with it in the abstract - and the first reaction
will always be guilt. For most of us guilt is pretty
unfashionable and we are taught it is a useless emotion, nevertheless,
depending where in the world you land, it is pretty real. When travelling
in the poorer regions of the world you'd have to be pretty self-righteous
not to admit that guilt will influence your actions to some degree.
Some would
say that enjoying ourselves and tourism in a poor country is wrong and totally out of place
amid suffering and poverty, and that by exploiting such we get a cheaper trip
- but lets recognise right here that tourism is not responsible for the
inequalities of the world. Being somewhere poor does not increase local
suffering and ninety-nine percent of the time can help to relieve it.
If you want to do something for a country, spend your money responsibly and
act likewise,
without having your head in the sand.
The benefits of travel are self-evident for both host and traveller. However,
there is a big downside, with tourism far from being the smokeless industry
it is self-promoted as. Impacts can seem remote, like pollution caused
by air travel, but individual choices and awareness can make a difference
and collectively, travellers can effectively shape a more responsible and
sustainable industry. The following considerations are solely a few ideas,
but please always keep them in mind:
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Within the context of a site like this it is important that responsible travel is stressed, but such concerns prompted in the mass media are less helpful, move with fashion and unfortunately often can give the impression all travel is damaging (especially those to more exotic destinations) which is so very wrong. Given that about fifteen percent of global jobs are tourism based (the world's biggest industry) and of those, the jobs that are most needed (those in the developing world and more 'exotic' destinations) are the smallest share. The developing world desperately needs your money - go spend it (wisely)!
Gifts for children:You should have very little time or love for those
travellers who carry around sweets or trinkets which they then hand
out indiscriminately to children. The motivation for this sort of thing
is entirely selfish, in that it makes the giver feel good about him
or herself, not to mention, there is something nauseatingly paternalistic
about dewy-eyed tourist adopting a beatific smile at the sight of 'adorable'
children scrambling in the dirt for small change or whatever.
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The value of your money:Above all else, never forget the value of your
money, how lucky you are to have it and what it means to others. Lets
take Africa: from a United Nations statistic more than half of African
countries have an average annual per capita income of US$600. This is
the same in many parts of Asia and Latin America. So your shoestring
budget of $20 per day is more than many earn in a week; your week's
budget could be up to a year's worth of secondary education and it goes
on.
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We are like many others, quite particular about this issue
(not giving to children and acting responsibly) and consider
all the effort put into this site worthy if only to put this point across
and get future travellers on board and making their feelings known out on
the road. This practice of handing out gifts is presumably a response to
the guilt instilled by the visible gulf in wealth that separates most Westerners
from Africans, Latin Americans and Asians. It is a perfectly understandable
response, but don't think it is in anyway the right one. Consider why this
gulf exists, and you will recognise that the most constructive role tourism
can play in a depressed economy is not random handouts but to encourage
legitimate and sustainable local business.
Considering that a high proportion of money earned by package tours stays
in the hands of foreign investors, independent (all be it budget) travellers
have a particularly high level of control over where their money goes. Collectively
backpackers, even just the visitors to this site, can make a difference
by not salving their consciences with a few ultimately meaningless donations
to beggars or children, but by thinking about how and where they spend their
money and whenever possible lending their support to locally owned businesses
and community projects.
You are not expected to be a saint, but the above is of particular importance
for backpackers as they often get to far more remote destinations than the
average tourist. You may well find on your travels some wonderfully isolated
places and think - this is not a place for tourists/backpackers. Conversely,
you will almost certainly go to some remote places, completely changed by
the number of visitors - the hill tribes of Thailand, for example.
E-mailed comment: 'On my first trips to undeveloped countries I found it quite hard to deal with begging children, especially if you even happen to see their parents (or any grown-ups "in charge") pressurizing them to hassle (white) travellers in order get money out of them (see, for example, Angkor Wat, where you can hardly walk a few meters without this happening). I personally can't support this and don't give the kids any money but it is in fact breaking my heart. Everyone needs to find their own way of dealing with it but if you like children, even only in the slightest, I found the best way to deal with it is to actually chat with the kids, talk to them and play with them - most of them don't get this kind of attention very often and they really do appreciate it. Especially in Cambodia, the kids love to practice their English and it even happened to me that the children who wanted to sell us yet another bracelet at some beach near Sihanoukville in the end gave us their stash of bracelets for watch while they had a dip in the sea. Of course that's only useful if you like children but it'd be a pity if people only walked around regarding them as a dirty trouble while they are often made to begging or hassling, or do it because they have no other choice.' - Laura (UK/Germany)
Nowhere is the phrase 'you can't live with them and you can't live without
them' so appropriate. The often invidious guidebook is very much a travel
essential, increasingly dictating to whole generations where to go, how
to get there and what to do. As touted by their publishers they are becoming
modern day Bibles, some already assuming titles like 'The Book'.
All over the world you can see twenty somethings - and increasingly older
- often desperate for succour, with their heads stuck in guidebooks. Reading,
re-reading, desperately trying to find the best possible routes and the
best possible places as if encoded somewhere in the pages. Often pens are
at hand to underline or highlight anything that reads even slightly as an
opinion or solid recommendation. The problem is everyone is doing the same
and generally reading from the same text - let's not beat around the bush,
it's Lonely Planet, with its appealing glossy colour pictures, familiar
layout and youthful feel. At well-trodden sights worldwide you will see
individual after individual (in the loosest possible way) strolling around
guidebook in hand with their finger in the relevant page.
Throughout this site you will see off-the-beaten-track possibilities mentioned and by simply looking at a map of any given country
you will see thousands more. Upon first travelling guidebooks often become a limitation -
literary, 'if it is not in "the book"' it is [perceived to be] not worth visiting or simply can't be.
Obviously this is nonsense and all you need is time, inclination and knowledge there is transport there and somewhere to stay when you arrive.
Hopping on a bus into the 'unknown' once in a while is a great kick. Even
in a country a
heavily touristed as somewhere like Thailand, there are thousands of great place
to get away from the masses, step back in time and see a part of life few of the millions of backpackers to the region ever see.
A guidebook is necessary for most travellers and very useful, but should be seen as a 'springboard' and not a 'bible'. If it sounds interesting
and is safe - then go for it.
On which guidebook to pick, there are recommendations of field tested guides, per country
in the country summary section and in the
recommended reading section (a big thank you if you
choose to shop through here), but here's a quick low down of the
most popular and useful brands:
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Lonely Planet
(aka. LP): The most ubiquitous of all guides,
often with solid information, but not always up-to-date. Often patronizing,
boring with a recycled first 100 or so pages and recommendations generally
over subscribed. They do cover some interesting locations (the Caucasus,
Iran and Syria for example) and sometimes are the only choice. Their
region in one, or shoestring titles are appallingly lacking in depth
and information. LP's vary from very good to awful. It all depends on
the edition and author. However, their maps are probably the best of
all guides. Newer titles are now published in a jazzy format (with questionable
'authors choice' recommendations), but can be better than older versions.
» Bradt: Acclaimed African guidebooks, their East and Southern Africa backpackers manual is a very fine guide indeed, perhaps the best and most down-to-earth written and detailed filled out there. Others are quite good especially African and other out of the way countries, but can suffer from being out-of-date and have a somewhat amateur look to them compared to the big boys of the industry. |
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Rough Guide:
Maybe the most in-depth and informative of guides available. Their structure
can need getting use to if you have only previously used other guides.
Sometimes seemingly aimed at older travellers and those with their own
transportation, these books are a good read as well as a good guide.
However, titles don't cover as wide a range of countries as LPs and
older titles are nowhere near as good as newer ones, which are first
rate in most cases. As with Lonely Planet, multi-region guides are far
from perfect. European guides are excellent and their alternatives to
over popular titles i.e. LP's India/Thailand are a perfect alternative
to get away from the crowds. If you are planning a trip a great first
stop in the planning process is Rough Guide's First Time
series.
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Guidebooks are necessary (as a sort of safety net) in most destinations, and you will have
to excuse the contempt that stems from travellers' over dependence on them and
their failure to see past the blue spines of the Lonely Planet guides. Contrary
to popular belief it is possible to travel without a guidebook: you'll find
plenty of information available from locals, guesthouses, tourist information
and other sources. Not to mention the numerous opportunities you'll have to
peruse the guidebooks of others.
It is hard to gauge if flicking through one in a book store or
if using a very recently updated copy in the most popular destinations of well
travelled countries, but many a guidebook is full of rubbish. Many companies
bang out guides for as many countries as they can, whereas others employ authors
who really know the region and know what travel is like in order to present
the most relevant information. Considering the budget many travel writers are
given and the range they must cover (often as quickly as possible), it is hardly
surprising that some will be happy to recommend restaurants and hotels after
only spending 10mins checking them out or maybe not even visiting at all.
Thomas Kohnstamm
a former Lonely Planet writer in an interview promoting his
book in the (Oz)
Sunday Telegraph spoke freely of fallible methods used. Best of all was his
claim that despite a contribution to the LP Colombia he had never been to the
country, "They didn't pay me enough to go to Colombia. I wrote the book in San
Francisco. I got the information from a chick I was dating". More amusing were
claims such as noting "the table service is friendly" in a restaurant he says
he had sex with a waitress on a table after hours. Probably one of the free
services he said he would often accept. Such claims are nothing new, take a
look at an
interesting article (if the link is still working), titled: the truth about
guidebooks, written by a former author.
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Even the best title is far from perfect, and
series vary dramatically as authors and publication dates vary.
The best tip to offer is don't be afraid to try something new. Pick
a guide that is not the normal choice. How can you say Lonely Planet
is the best guide when you haven't tried another?
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Rip up your guidebook?
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A good indication
of a guidebook series is to consider the title that launched them. For Lonely
Planet - South East Asia on a Shoestring; Let's Go - Europe (one of the
world's best selling guidebook title); Rough Guide - Greece (a relative
newcomer and mainly focused around Europe); Footprint - South America Handbook
(the world's longest running guidebook and the essential series for the
whole Latin America region).
You may have notions that your exotic travel will take you far away from
the modern world and all means of staying in touch. This is, however, rarely
the case for any more than a short spell as the Internet is virtually
everywhere (at least in any city of any size across the world with very,
very few exceptions) and
ADSL connections
are finding there way into more and more larger cities of developing nations
and many smaller towns that have a regular tourist/traveller through-flow.
The spread of mobile communications, the internet, wireless connections and the
recent rise of faster and better connections has been phenomenal, making the
world much smaller and making staying in touch with others and the world at
large a breeze. If you don't already have one, create yourself a free webmail
e-mail address/account (such as
Hotmail,
Yahoo Mail or better
Gmail) that can be accessed
from any Internet terminal in the world. Prices for internet access are normally
quite reasonable and you never normally have to search too hard for a connection
on the tourist trail.
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Faster e-mailIt really depends where you are, but slow connections
still haunt most travellers and can be incredibly frustrating especially
since most of us have become so use to ADSL speeds in the developed
world. If you are off the beaten track in the developing world, you'll
need patience, but here are a few tips:
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Well worth doing and a perfect use for your webmail account is storing your important info (reference numbers, important phone numbers, insurance details, etc.) on your internet account (just put it in an e-mail and send it to yourself). If you have access to a scanner you can store copies of your important documents on-line. If you lose your originals and hard-copies you can always retrieve them from the net.
As any web search will testify, a new generation of travellers on longer trips are frequently making use of web blogs. They're free to set up from numerous providers, you can upload photos, everyone can read them (or you can limit access) and friends/family have the option of posting messages, making it a little more personal. Hardly a necessity, but does have some merits such as if you don't have time to email all of your friends and family (assuming they are actually interested in your travels), but don't want to send impersonal group emails.
Phoning homePhoning home is often expensive, but costs
are falling with call centres found in many larger cities (often using
internet phone or international discounters). In developed countries
buy calling cards locally and use on pay phones. New Zealand to Europe
with a locally bought calling card would be cheaper than a North - South
Island call in New Zealand. Such calling cards are available all over
reasonably developed Asian countries such as Thailand, Singapore, Philippines
etc. (try convenience stores such as 7-Eleven).
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Of course you can send postcards and letters as a means of staying in touch, which although a little old school for a younger generation, are still nice and allows for inclusion of a small tangible present for those at home. On a longer trip it is quite feasible and a good idea to post many of your purchases and unused equipment home. A great place to do this is Bangkok. Here is a sample of the costs to anywhere in the world (prices in Thai Baht - see on-line for exchange rates, about 45 to the Euro) - see below.
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A guide as to how reliable/fast the postal service is in your
country of stay can always be found in a guidebook. Remember, if you are sending
something home new you have purchased on your trip and of high value, there
is a chance that you or whoever picks it up, can get hit for customs/import
duty at its destination.
You can also receive letters via the GPO's (General Post Offices)
who will hold your mail, addressing in the following way will suffice: Poste
Restante, Attn: First Name LAST NAME, GPO, Town, Country. Or if you have
an American Express card (AmEx issue a booklet of all their addresses) you can
receive mail at their offices.
For the most part, if sticking to a fairly standard and well trodden
route even in far flung destinations, getting a decent meal or at least
something okay is not a big problem and nothing to worry about - with places
catering to tourists plentiful. Being a veggie will limit your choices in
many regions, but will not be too great a problem - you will pretty much
always find something suitable to eat even if you are a vegan.
Within the developed world such as Western Europe the greater
challenge is not what to eat, but how to do so on a budget. In such places
cheaper restaurants and take-outs can be located with a little exploring
and the help of a guidebook; and a fast food joints will never be far away,
but for the most part a little self-catering makes better sense for
those who are sick of burgers and won't want all their funds gone after
a few weeks. Supermarkets and convenience stores are normally plentiful
and having your own knife-fork-spoon kit plus a Swiss army knife complete
with bottle, can and tin opener will allow you to take advantage of them
to a greater extent. To go the whole hog you could pick up a plastic plate/bowl.
All this is perfect for food on the go, a cheap snack (whipping up a sandwich,
peeling fruit, a yogurt or spreading something on a cracker) and for trips
when you don't have the time to always eat out and spend a good deal of
time on trains/buses. When staying in hostels, most will have a basic kitchen
you can use and supply something basic for breakfast. However, as you will
find out these vary dramatically in quality, facilities and hygiene.
Away from the developed world in popular destinations in the developing
world such as Thailand, India, Nepal, Peru and tens of others on the
beaten track (pretty much all the places you will want to go) good food
can be found in both local and international forms in hotels and towns with
no difficulty at all. If you want to use more local eating places, you'll
see loads - just be brave and head in. A guidebook or locals will always
point you in the right direction. Away from the tourist runs of South-East/Southern
Asia and Central/South America in destinations like much of Africa/Central
Asia and out of the way places in the aforementioned regions you can occasionally
run into some problems where you need to be a little more adventurous since
traveller friendly places are pretty rare. You'll no doubt find a fair few
places without a menu (or at least one you can make any sense of - see
image of menu in
Iran) or anyone who speaks English, so have an idea of what
you want beforehand, point to someone else's food or learn the appropriate
word for the type of food you want such as 'fish', 'omelet', 'chicken'.
It goes without saying that if you really want to travel on the cheap
it's these local places and street stalls where you can make your funds
stretch seriously far compared to eating at the numerous places set up to
cater for foreigners. (see
image - resulting order from menu linked image above)
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Comment:
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It's worth noting here, that when on the go and travelling
hard/fast it can be difficult to take proper meals and get a balance diet. Nuts
are normally available to buy and are a great alternative to the omnipresent
choice of candy/biscuits plus an excellent source of protein/fat). Many travellers
use vitamin pills, buy fruit regularly and will keep a few snacks in their bag
encase they get stuck in a jam (bus break-down, restaurants closed etc.)
- good advice. It's a little patronising to say, but fairly obvious, that if
you don't allow the time or budget and start skipping meals or eating irregularly/unhealthily,
you're not doing yourself any favours and will feel run down and eventually
probably get sick. The same deal goes with replacing fluids.
You don't need to be, but for those still worried then a
visual translator, which is card full of images (such as food) which
you point at for some basic communication can be useful.
This
varies from country to country (see country summaries),
but the world is a small place and you can normally get CNN, BBC World
or MTV and a copy of Newsweek or Time. In big cities you'll find
no problem at all. In less populated areas you will need to stick to the
Internet. In the Asian sub-continent, Middle East and Latin America, many
hotels (even many hostels) have satellite TV even if this means spending
a bit more on your room once in a while. In India, Nepal, Thailand and Central
America (among others) you can watched Live Premiership football, NBA basketball
or American sit-coms.
In major tourist areas such as Bali, Nepal, Cusco, Goa, Guatemala, Greek
islands and Thailand you will find cafes and restaurants playing pirated
new movie releases for free or a small charge. Cinemas (movie theatres)
are another overlooked - pretty much always in English (apart from Russia
and the CIS, Italy, France and Ex-French Africa) - cheap way to escape where
you are, the heat and see some moving pictures.
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Cinemas are particularly good and widespread in
Latin America and 9/10 times films are shown in their original language.
The British and American councils in some major cities have a
reading room and Internet that can be used even if for a small charge.
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Most countries do have their own very cheap English language newspaper and as stated Time and Newsweek are available in all big cities with ex-pat populations worldwide. A LW radio will allow you, for what it's worth, to pick up BBC World Service, Voice of America and others. |
Outside of the developed world, India/Nepal, Dar es Salaam/Zanzibar,
South East Asia (cheap pirated novels and guidebooks), Costa Rica, Guatemala
and Ecuador, getting reasonable priced second hand or new/good English language
books can be difficult. Most major tourist destinations and capitals have
the odd shop with a few English-language books kicking around, but unless
you're into trashy novels or classics, finding something worth reading is
challenging.
It's not easy to make a sweeping statement with regards to where you
might come across a good selection of reading material and new guidebooks.
Asia is by far the easiest place to find such titles with massive selections
in Bangkok, India and Kathmandu aside very reasonable selections in most
other country's capital cities. You'll find the majority written in English,
but where there is a steady tourist stream (say India or Thai beach resorts)
second hand German, French and Italian books float around. Where English
isn't the first major European language spoken such as continental Europe,
Latin America or West Africa where tourist aren't in steady supply, you'll
find availability pretty poor, but will often come across at least something
in certain destinations (for example Banos in Ecuador). For the most it's
either feast or famine.
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If you do plan to re-sell a guidebook these will always fetch a good price: you may want to pick up a plastic/paper cover for it - stopping it getting too battered. Pirated books that originate mainly from South Vietnam and end up in Bangkok and Kathmandu can't be re-sold for a good price. New guidebooks will cost about the same or a little more than they would in your home country. Other titles are okay value. |
Travel reading:Travelling is a great time to read and picking
the right titles really helps you get under the skin of a culture and
to have a much better and more measured understanding of it. Take the
excellent Wild Swans for example.
Anyone who has read this will know and understand China perhaps better
than someone who has visited. Not combining reading a book like this
with a visit is only eating half the cake. Even if you are not a big
reader, you are strongly encouraged to give it a try. If you're not
sure what to go for then on this site are a number of pages recommending
a few books that you can't go wrong with. None are too deeply written
or boring, many talk through a backpacker's perspective, many are funny
and a good number are probably unlike anything you might have read before.
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For
avid readers in foreign lands who can never find English language books at a
reasonable price, look for the 'classics' section in the local bookstores. There
is usually a fairly large selection for the equivalent of US$3 or $4 as compared
to US$20+ for current titles. You'll find many books throughout Eastern Europe,
Africa and also in Asia.
If you are big into reading and not visiting any of the destinations
mentioned (see additional information per country in the
country summary section), then take a few books
with you or pick them up in Oz, NZ, South Africa, the USA, etc.
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Comments:
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Comments:
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Please note that the comments Carrie makes above are true for SE Asia and other similar places which have great traveller services, however the comments Ricia makes to the left are far more reflective of developing world travel in general.
When it comes to any given culture
(pick your definition from the hundreds - shared values and believes
being the best and most simplest), the first and most important thing to remember
is just
how impenetrable other cultures can be.
Living somewhere like Europe or North America where you can, in most
capital cities at least,
jump from a restaurant of one national cuisine to another, hear music and
languages
from around the world, visit galleries and museums with collections from
around the globe - probably gives the illusion that other cultures are
more assessable and easily understood than they really are.
When confronted by an unfamiliar country/culture it is natural that you
attribute everything you see and hear to the culture. You will also find
that of course a
small proportion makes a stronger impression than the silent majority and
that all people are just human. The guy that hassles you to be a guide does so not
necessarily because of his nationality/culture, but because he needs a
job. Likewise the children that shout and pester you for a pen or sweet
do so because they are children, the
guy at the station who helps you find your bus/train, does so because he is
friendly - and so
on. With so many reference points that are so easily confused, everyone will form their own
opinion on
'the culture', often expounding a county's culture based on what the
guidebook says, their friend told them or simply some experiences
they have had - and here we are all pretty guilty (this site probably the
most). Thus this text is only to draw attention to the phenomenon - not to
correct it.
In reality it is practically impossible to really understand a culture
removed to a great degree from your own. Nevertheless you can learn a great deal
about a culture by travelling, but it will always be assimilated within
the framework of your own cultural background. What is really great
about travel is immersing yourself in another culture is being able
to place the narrow and 'strange' concerns of your own culture in a new
perspective. Which is really why travel and breaking far away from your
'cultural comfort zone' is so mentally liberating and refreshing!
Lack of real cultural understanding can and probably will taint your experiences, since it is always our most deeply seated cultural assumptions that we are most ignorant of and least able to overcome. For which is the very reason we should always be wary in making sweeping judgements.
Is there such a thing as culture shock?Culture shock is often both over and understated,
and varies considerably as to where you first land. Above all, allow
a few days to adapt and expect in less developed countries a much higher
level of dirt, pollution and noise than you have at home, being unable
to follow the language, feeling somewhat of a target for crime and putting
up with accommodation and transport that is not great at the best of
times.
Many people arrive in Africa, Asia, The Middle East or Latin America with what can only be described as wildly romantic expectations about its people and feel completely let down that everyone is dressed in Western clothing and in villages where people are in ethnic dress, they are only interested in selling you something. However, to complain as tourists do, that the world is too commercialised is a little absurd. |
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In connection with several e-mailed questions and a desire
to provide real information in these pages that couldn't be found in guidebooks,
wanted to touch upon drugs and vice abroad - two things most independent travellers
come across.
With the exception of Holland, Rastafarian churches and Coca Tea in South America,
drugs are illegal worldwide and always carry strict penalties. The thing
is, many of the drugs mentioned are, or have been part of a country's long standing
culture and indeed grow wild in many nations. Despite recent strict rules, you
will in your travels virtually always come across some form of drugs and considering
that many drugs (not all) in small quantities are no more harmful than a beer
or a cigarette, will want to try some at a bargain price. This is compounded
by the fact that despite these strict rules (normally the death penalty for
traffickers or laws (such as in Indonesia) where if you know someone has drugs
and you do not inform the authorities, you are also liable for penalty), use
is widespread, laws seem to be disregarded and police often seem to turn a blind
eye.
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» Marijuana:
Commonly and generally safely (well easily at least) available in India
especially in Goa, mountain regions (e.g. Simla) and Pushkar.
Also in Nepal (you will see it growing wild on most treks), North Africa,
especially Morocco and Egypt (Dahab), Thailand's Islands, Indochina,
México, Costa Rica, Colombia, Brazil, Southern Africa (especially Malawi)
and Australia and NZ - to name a few. These are just the most concentrated
areas where a scene has sprung up, probably due to lack of police interest
and a past or present hippy scene.
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» Opium: Opium
is easy to obtain and in fact legal for hill tribes in the golden triangle.
In most treks from Chang Mai, Thailand you'll come across it. It is
most widespread and easy to obtain in Laos. Remember this is Opium not
Heroin, which anyone with any sense would avoid. Please also consider
ethical issues, such as authorities trying to stop hill farmers growing
poppies and encourage them to take up other crops: here you are creating
a demand.
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Vice::
Anywhere in the world you find poverty, a wealthy expatriate population and/or
a foreign (normally American) military base (or historic connection to one),
you'll find prostitution. With certain regions and countries having somewhat
of a reputation for sex tourism. Take a walk through certain areas of any big
tourist town or stop for a drink in certain expat bars or hotel lobbies and
it's easy to see where and why. Whether you are aware of it or not, prostitution
is rife in many parts of Asia, Russia, Europe and Brazil/Central America, with
Manila/Angeles, Rio and
Bangkok/Pattaya the sex holiday destinations of choice.
However, in the Philippines, Thailand and many other places
prostitution is illegal. Many backpackers in Bangkok may take in a show in
Pat Pong
or have offers of prostitution at some stage (normally from free-lancers
hanging out in more up-market and hotel bars), that they shyly turn away and
that's it. And how it should be. In reality (of course) some will end up touching
rather than just looking.
Go-Go bars are much the same as any strip-club in
the world (although with more activity available in back private rooms or 'take-away'
options). Pop into any of these bars and what you will get is many gorgeous
girls (many look and probably are under 18) sometimes in swimsuits asking for
you to buy them a drink (that's how they make their money - or one of the ways).
Girls will give you a lot of attention and continue asking for more drinks.
It's obvious that many guys leave with girls (where a leaving fee or 'bar-fine'
is normally paid) or head to back-rooms. The more popular the bar, the more
40plus Japanese/Australians/Americans and the more aggressive the girls will
be. Don't expect a cheap night out or a clean conscience. Some KTV (karaoke)
bars will operate in the same way, only will be more expensive. Massage
parlours that offer a viewing gallery to pick your female massager or provide
in hotel massages are likely to offer 'extra-services', but where they exist,
it's easy to see what these places are about a mile off.
Whereas narcotics were discussed in detail, there's nothing
more really to say about this subject, considering its questionable ethics.
It's not common, but you should also consider, you may end up with a transgendered
individual or if you take a girl back to your room, end up with a rape/under-age
charge when the police turn up the next morning with the crying (faking) girl.
Equally, Aids/HIV is an issue in all the aforementioned places and so are other
STDs - remember condoms are not 100% foolproof.
Getting involved with any of the above you cross a line where you are playing with different rules and have no recourse to the law. Over that line, you are open to lying, cheating and entrapment. When it comes to drugs, you may get ripped off when buying, you maybe robbed under the effects or be sold drugs by a dealer who heads straight to the police for a tip. All are possible; if you do get involved be very, very careful (no responsibility taken here), take drugs in your room, not in public, buy from guesthouse/bar owners never from the street, check out the scene, know what you are doing, don't carry contraband on your person and never, never, never carry anything across international boundaries. All common sense really. It is just backpackers get carried away since it is so cheap, seems almost legal and they are on holiday to enjoy themselves. If you can't be good at least be careful.
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Examples of this slightly paranoid stuff are:
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If there is anything else you would like details on, feel is omitted or would like to add yourself, then please get in touch. |
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"I should like to spend my whole life travelling, if only I
could borrow another to spend at home"
William Blake