What to pack / Where to go / Before you go / Country Summaries / On the road / Resources / Links / Home

 

Here's part two, of 'on the road' - things you'll probably give consideration to while travelling and how to deal with them. This section contains a lot of information and being a large document, is kept on two pages in two parts - this being part two.

You could click here to see the entire document at once (large page - only recommended for faster connections).

» Got a fast connection? Click here to see part one and two on the same page.

 

»    Guidebooks

Nowhere is the phrase 'you can't live with them and you can't live without them' so appropriate. The often invidious guidebook is very much a travel essential, increasingly dictating to whole generations where to go, how to get there and what to do. As touted by their publishers they are becoming modern day Bibles, some already assuming titles like 'The Book'.

The world an open bookAll over the world you can see twenty somethings - and increasingly older - often desperate for succour, with their heads stuck in guidebooks. Reading, re-reading, desperately trying to find the best possible routes and the best possible places as if encoded somewhere in the pages. Often pens are at hand to underline or highlight anything that reads even slightly as an opinion or solid recommendation. The problem is everyone is doing the same and generally reading from the same text - let's not beat around the bush, it's Lonely Planet, with its appealing glossy colour pictures, familiar layout and youthful feel. At well-trodden sights worldwide you will see individual after individual (in the loosest possible way) strolling around guidebook in hand with their finger in the relevant page.

There are recommendations of field tested guides, per country in the country summary section and in the recommended reading section (a big thank you if you choose to shop through here), but here's a quick low down:

» Lonely Planet (aka. LP): The most ubiquitous of all guides, often with solid information, but not always up-to-date. Often patronizing, boring with a recycled first 100 or so pages and recommendations generally over subscribed. They do cover some interesting locations (the Caucasus, Iran and Syria for example) and sometimes are the only choice. Their region in one, or shoestring titles are appallingly lacking in depth and information. LP's vary from very good to awful. It all depends on the edition and author. However, their maps are probably the best of all guides. Newer titles are now published in a jazzy format (with questionable 'authors choice' recommendations), but can be better than older versions.

This major change for those who remember the original format is very much a result of the original founders and authors (the Wheelers) no longer in control of the operation. The new formats do look more professional and as a result are less aimed at typical backpackers, losing their youthful, independent, adventurous spirit. The increasing professionalism of the management (some would say bottom line focused, milk the cash cow business acumen) is likely an attempt to break into the massive United States market (which is relatively conservative and prone to litigation) and increase revenue, all of which has meant that the quirky, amateurish (in the best sense) tone of the early books has diminished.

For example, an early edition of Africa on a shoestring has the heading 'Drugs', which includes information on purchasing drugs (mainly marijuana), while the 1980 edition of South-East Asia on a Shoestring includes information on how to purchase fake student ID cards - all of which you would now never find. Other quirks included some hand-drawn maps and the occasional strong/radical opinion. Some strong opinions remain, but they are party lines and for the best part closed minded. In 2007, the BBC purchased Lonely Planet (The Wheelers keep 25%), so we can see where this takes the business.

Lonely Planet's initial strength has caused some problems. With many equating Lonely Planet with backpackers. The series now tries to make a clearer split between the backpacker-only products and those (now the majority) aimed at more affluent travellers and tourists. These are by far the best selling and most popular guides where a recommendation can make or break a hotel or restaurant. (see image)

» Bradt: Acclaimed African guidebooks, their East and Southern Africa backpackers manual is a very fine guide indeed, perhaps the best and most down-to-earth written and detailed filled out there. Others are quite good especially African and other out of the way countries, but can suffer from being out-of-date and have a somewhat amateur look to them compared to the big boys of the industry.

» Rough Guide: Maybe the most in-depth and informative of guides available. Their structure can need getting use to if you have only previously used other guides. Sometimes seemingly aimed at older travellers and those with their own transportation, these books are a good read as well as a good guide. However, titles don't cover as wide a range of countries as LPs and older titles are nowhere near as good as newer ones, which are first rate in most cases. As with Lonely Planet, multi-region guides are far from perfect. European guides are excellent and their alternatives to over popular titles i.e. LP's India/Thailand are a perfect alternative to get away from the crowds. If you are planning a trip a great first stop in the planning process is Rough Guide's First Time series.

» Let's Go: Once you get past their dogged look (new editions have a new format and look a lot smarter, but are less budget focused) and the fact that they are highly American, with sometimes not always good humour, they're not bad. The fact that they do contain humour is actually a real plus, so is the fact that they are one of the only guides that makes real recommendations and focuses on budget travel.

They are also one of the most accurate, being updated yearly. Accommodation listings are however slim and normally include only a few backpackery choices - which may not be what you're after. These guides are perhaps best avoided in regions with many young American travellers. Let's Go guides are written and updated by Harvard students every year. In recent years more exotic locations, i.e. Middle East have been left un-updated and the focus is on 'safer' destinations in Europe.

» Footprint: An excellent series, intelligently put together, sometimes on fine paper (really condensing content) and perhaps the only multi-country guides worth having. The South or Central America Handbook is a serious project and puts the Lonely Planet and other versions to shame. Limited titles and often terrible town maps are their only let down. Footprint also seem to rave about places off-the-beaten track that when you arrive can be less than inspiring.

» Others: There are also good German (Stefan Loose) and French language (Routard) guidebooks available, as well as free FAQ travel guides that can be found on the internet. The German 'Reise Know-How' and other non-English guides are often direct translations of Lonely Planet, but some editions aren't and have greater detail and accuracy.

You will also sometimes find excellent regional guides such as 'BUG' Australia, NZ and UK/Ireland, or the excellent 'In your pocket' free city guides in Eastern Europe.

GuidebookGuidebooks are necessary (as a sort of safety net) in most destinations, and you will have to excuse the contempt that stems from travellers' over dependence on them and their failure to see past the blue spines of the Lonely Planet guides. Contrary to popular belief it is possible to travel without a guidebook: you'll find plenty of information available from locals, guesthouses, tourist information and other sources. Not to mention the numerous opportunities you'll have to peruse the guidebooks of others.

It's hard to gauge if flicking through one in a book store or if using a very recently updated copy in the most popular destinations of well traveled countries, but many a guidebook is full of rubbish. Many companies bang out guides for as many countries as they can, whereas others employ authors who really know the region and know what travel is like in order to present the most relevant information. Considering the budget many travel writers are given and the range they must cover (often as quickly as possible), it is hardly surprising that some will be happy to recommend restaurants and hotels after only spending 10mins checking them out or maybe not even visiting at all. Thomas Kohnstamm a former Lonely Planet writer in an interview promoting his book in the (Oz) Sunday Telegraph spoke freely of fallible methods used. Best of all was his claim that despite a contribution to the LP Colombia he had never been to the country, "They didn't pay me enough to go to Colombia. I wrote the book in San Francisco. I got the information from a chick I was dating". More amusing were claims such as noting "the table service is friendly" in a restaurant he says he had sex with a waitress on a table after hours. Probably one of the free services he said he would often accept. Such claims are nothing new, take a look at an interesting article (if the link is still working), titled: the truth about guidebooks, written by a former author.

Even the best title is far from perfect, and series vary dramatically as authors and publication dates vary. The best tip to offer is don't be afraid to try something new. Pick a guide that is not the normal choice. How can you say Lonely Planet is the best guide when you haven't tried another?

One of the best tips you'll get from this site is (if you can, i.e. a good alternative is available) at least try to travel with a non-LP guide especially if you are heading to a popular destination. Along with the launch of a new format (which is better in some ways, but much more opinionated (a dangerous thing for such a widely used guide)) and many new 'packaged' products, LP has certainly taken a more corporate turn now that the Wheelers (original founders) have sold a large share of it. This coincides with the company taking yet another step up their own arse, so proud and confident they are of their travel empire. The emphasis is now very much on selling rather than creating original guides and independent advice.

Nevertheless, for the most part there is nothing wrong with Lonely Planet guides. All guides have their faults and LPs are no different - only you will be another LP sheep, walking around with the same bland guide as thousands (make that hundreds of thousands) of others.

Rip up your guidebook?

E-mailed suggestion 'With large regional guide books (you don't need to do this for single country guides), that you have no chance of reselling, a friend suggested tearing pages out as needed. Not only reducing the weight of the book while travelling, but meaning you need only carry a few pages (e.g. map) around when sightseeing or in town. Was appalled initially at the idea, but when tried realised it made sense and made you feel a lot better since most of the information was so bad!'' If you do decide to rip them apart so that you can only carry the pieces that are/will be useful to you the best way to do this [for the LP among others] is to put them in the microwave. Usually about 30 seconds will do. It melts the glue in the spine allowing the pages to come out effortless and more importantly without any loss of information' - Nicholas Shirley

It's a great idea. Give it a go if you have a huge guide, you'll never look back. Of course a little photocopying is another option. It's well worth making a copy of maps and other relevant info to take out with you when looking around. Who wants to carry a great guidebook with them everywhere?

[i] A good indication of a guidebook series is to consider the title that launched them. For Lonely Planet - South East Asia on a Shoestring; Let's Go - Europe (one of the world's best selling guidebook title); Rough Guide - Greece (a relative newcomer and mainly focused around Europe); Footprint - South America Handbook (the world's longest running guidebook and the essential series for the whole Latin America region).

 

 

»    Staying in touch

You may have notions that your exotic travel will take you far away from the modern world and all means of staying in touch. This is, however, rarely the case for any more than a short spell as the Internet is virtually everywhere (at least in any city of any size across the world with very, very few exceptions) and ADSL connections are finding there way into more and more larger cities of developing nations and many smaller towns that have a regular tourist/traveller through-flow.

The spread of mobile communications, the internet and the recent rise of faster and better connections has been phenomenal, making the world much smaller and making staying in touch with others and the world at large a breeze. If you don't already have one, create yourself a free webmail e-mail address/account (such as Hotmail, Yahoo Mail or better Gmail) that can be accessed from any Internet terminal in the world. Prices for internet access are normally quite reasonable and you never normally have to search too hard for a connection on the tourist trail.

LaptopAn internet connection keeps you in touch with the things that normally matter at home, such as keeping track of friends, family, the news, sports or anything else. Faster connections are opening up a whole new world to travellers, from downloading pod-casts and e-mailing the odd photo home to updating an on-line travelogue or even listening to live radio shows. You find many PCs in internet cafes that have MSN/Yahoo Messenger installed and this is an excellent way to make contact with friends/relatives and have a live chat without the cost of an international phone call.

It is also not uncommon to find in larger more professional internet cafes located normally in the larger cities of Asian 'technophile' nations (such as Manila, Seoul, Singapore etc), web cams and headsets you can use (via MSN or other) to send a live image home. If a web cam is not present, which to be honest is something of a novelty, someone back home will still be able to stream you their image via newer versions of MSN or other software installed. 

It is also worth noting and mentioning here, that bigger more professional internet places will often burn your digital photos to a CD. Many will have a card reader, but not all, so you might want to take your own connection lead. To generalise horribly, you will find this service in any major capital or larger city which is a significant tourist attraction in Asia. In Latin America the same is true, but you need to look harder. In Africa you have to look harder still. In Europe/North America with less widespread internet cafes you can still find these services. Wherever you are, if in doubt, just ask. Most places have a CD burner at the desk and are happy to help even if they don't advertise the service.

Faster e-mail

It really depends where you are, but slow connections still haunt most travellers and can be incredibly frustrating especially since most of us have become so use to ADSL speeds in the developed world. If you are off the beaten track in the developing world, you'll need patience, but here are a few tips:

For the fastest connections in locations with less than inspiring speeds, look for empty internet cafes at periods where there is limited traffic on the net (early morning). Also bear in mind that many internet cafes only have one or two connections which are shared/split between users. So two users equals half the speed, four users quarter the speed and so on. It's worth setting your webmail account to only show 10 or less messages at a time, diverting junk mail into a separate folder and not having a webmail account full of advertising (most of the major providers) to speed up your webmail use when connections are painfully slow.

Couples can easily share the same webmail account to save paying for the lengthy log on process just to check for new mail. Two users can log onto the same account at the same time - no problem. If a connection is very poor, leave the provider and come back later - periodic network problems are common where technology infrastructure is still developing. However, such measures are becoming less and less necessary as ADSL connections find their way into more and more of the developing world. Nowadays, in big cities of even the most tin-pot countries you can normally find excellent speed connections.

[i] Well worth doing and a perfect use for your webmail account is storing your important info (reference numbers, important phone numbers, insurance details, etc.) on your internet account (just put it in an e-mail and send it to yourself). If you have access to a scanner you can store copies of your important documents on-line. If you lose your originals and hard-copies you can always retrieve them from the net.

As any web search will testify, a new generation of travellers on longer trips are frequently making use of web blogs. They're free to set up from numerous providers, you can upload photos, everyone can read them (or you can limit access) and friends/family have the option of posting messages, making it a little more personal. Hardly a necessity, but does have some merits such as if you don't have time to email all of your friends and family (assuming they are actually interested in your travels), but don't want to send impersonal group emails.

Phoning home

Phoning home is often expensive, but costs are falling with call centres found in many larger cities (often using internet phone or international discounters). In developed countries buy calling cards locally and use on pay phones. New Zealand to Europe with a locally bought calling card would be cheaper than a North - South Island call in New Zealand. Such calling cards are available all over reasonably developed Asian countries such as Thailand, Singapore, Philippines etc. (try convenience stores such as 7-Eleven).

TelephoneIn much less developed countries you will have to really hunt for these calling cards if available, so a good method to talk to someone back home is to ask the hotel you are staying in if you can receive a phone call there. Then e-mail/SMS a time and number to those who wish to call.

Worth noting is if you have an international SIM (mentioned left) and it is giving you free incoming calls where you are, using services like Jajah.com cuts costs still further. You could take a calling card from your home country (e.g. BT charge card or AT&T) with you for emergencies, but beware using them is very expensive and unnecessary.

In addition to Yahoo/MSN messenger mentioned above, many will no doubt be aware of Skype, which allows you to call nearly or absolutely free from anywhere to anywhere, transfer huge data (photos/music) files and live text messages as with MSN. You just a need a to find a internet place with a headset or webcam and the free software installed. This really depends on regions, but to be honest, it's still not that common. Calls are free Skype-to-Skype, and for 'Skypeout' (to call regular phones) or 'Skypein' (to receive calls from regular phones) only a small fee is charged and call costs are incredibly low. It's all pretty cool if you are in a position to utilise it all. There's loads more information and probably a better explanation of services and charges on Skype's website.

Cell/Mobile Phones

Cell PhoneProbably the biggest measure of a rapidly developing world aside from the proliferation of internet cafes is the use of cellular / mobile phones even in some of the world's poorer countries. Major North American/Australian and European networks which allow roaming, will pick up a signal in the vast majority of the populated world. Taking a cell phone has many advantages and is recommended (see the 'What to Pack' page), but several disadvantages, most notably the potential cost of actually using it. If roaming on your home network, call costs (made or received) will be significant, but SMS message costs are manageable, normally being a fixed rate and free to receive.

If you intend to use your mobile a lot, really the best bet is to buy a local pay-as-you-go SIM card which can normally be found without too much trouble (make sure your phone is 'unlocked' if you plan to do this). However this is only really practical if you are staying in one destination for sometime and if moving around from country to country like most, highly impractical and uneconomical. The second solution is to buy one of the now widely available international SIM cards, which can be great, but are far from an ideal solution simply because how useful they are in saving you money depends on where you are in the world. They do however allow you to receive calls for free in many countries and reduce call costs in many others compared to roaming on your home network, but only really do so in the developed world. If you are travelling to the likes of Spain, France, Germany, etc., the savings you can make are significant and make them well worth having. Take the same trip, but through India, China, Thailand and the like, and making and receiving calls will be almost as expensive - if not sometimes more - than roaming with your home network - that is astronomical if used for any length of time. One such company that comes recommended is Go Sim (although there are many alternatives such as 0044 and doing the research on where and when you will save money is recommended before diving in.

Of course you can send postcards and letters as a means of staying in touch, which although a little old school for a younger generation, are still nice and allows for inclusion of a small tangible present for those at home. On a longer trip it is quite feasible and a good idea to post many of your purchases and unused equipment home. A great place to do this is Bangkok. Here is a sample of the costs to anywhere in the world (prices in Thai Baht - see on-line for exchange rates, about 45 to the Euro) - see below.

A nice box is provided at a small cost and the air option will arrive in the Europe in about five days, sea will take considerably longer at more risk. Mailing things home from most of Asia is no problem. Burma is cheap, but higher risk, Vietnam expensive. India and Iran are good/cheap. With large parcels always get your stamps franked before you give the item in and pay extra for registration if possible. Costs are much higher in Australia & NZ, and especially Latin America.

     Kg          Air          Surface          Sea    
1 900 950 800
2 1280 1125 1080
3 1660 1500 1360
4 2040 1495 1640

A guide as to how reliable/fast the postal service is in your country of stay can always be found in a guidebook. Remember, if you are sending something home new you have purchased on your trip and of high value, there is a chance that you or whoever picks it up, can get hit for customs/import duty at its destination.

You can also receive letters via the GPO's (General Post Offices) who will hold your mail, addressing in the following way will suffice: Poste Restante, Attn: First Name LAST NAME, GPO, Town, Country. Or if you have an American Express card (AmEx issue a booklet of all their addresses) you can receive mail at their offices.

 

 

»   Eating and vegetarianism

For the most part, if sticking to a fairly standard and well trodden route even in far flung destinations, getting a decent meal or at least something okay is not a big problem and nothing to worry about - with places catering to tourists plentiful. Being a veggie will limit your choices in many regions, but will not be too great a problem - you will pretty much always find something suitable to eat even if you are a vegan.

Within the developed world such as Western Europe the greater challenge is not what to eat, but how to do so on a budget. In such places cheaper restaurants and take-outs can be located with a little exploring and the help of a guidebook; and a fast food joints will never be far away, but for the most part a little self-catering makes better sense for those who are sick of burgers and won't want all their funds gone after a few weeks. Supermarkets and convenience stores are normally plentiful and having your own knife-fork-spoon kit plus a Swiss army knife complete with bottle, can and tin opener will allow you to take advantage of them to a greater extent. To go the whole hog you could pick up a plastic plate/bowl. All this is perfect for food on the go, a cheap snack (whipping up a sandwich, peeling fruit, a yogurt or spreading something on a cracker) and for trips when you don't have the time to always eat out and spend a good deal of time on trains/buses. When staying in hostels, most will have a basic kitchen you can use and supply something basic for breakfast. However, as you will find out these vary dramatically in quality, facilities and hygiene.

Away from the developed world in popular destinations in the developing world such as Thailand, India, Nepal, Peru and tens of others on the beaten track (pretty much all the places you will want to go) good food can be found in both local and international forms in hotels and towns with no difficulty at all. If you want to use more local eating places, you'll see loads - just be brave and head in. A guidebook or locals will always point you in the right direction. Away from the tourist runs of South-East/Southern Asia and Central/South America in destinations like much of Africa/Central Asia and out of the way places in the aforementioned regions you can occasionally run into some problems where you need to be a little more adventurous since traveller friendly places are pretty rare. You'll no doubt find a fair few places without a menu (or at least one you can make any sense of - see image of menu in Iran) or anyone who speaks English, so have an idea of what you want beforehand, point to someone else's food or learn the appropriate word for the type of food you want such as 'fish', 'omelet', 'chicken'. It goes without saying that if you really want to travel on the cheap it's these local places and street stalls where you can make your funds stretch seriously far compared to eating at the numerous places set up to cater for foreigners. (see image - resulting order from menu linked image above)

FoodIt's in these cheap local/street eateries away from the tourist runs where veggies will find life a little more difficult, but items such as veg fried rice or an omelette are perfect to fall back on. It's true to say many cultures don't understand the concept of being a vegetarian. It's really most difficult to keep to a vegetarian diet in Islamic countries such as any Arab nation, Iran, Pakistan, Western China and especially Central Asia (CIS). In these cases and others self-catering is by far the best option if a veggie or otherwise you find yourself in a bind. Fruit and bread will always be easy to find, the same normally goes for tomatoes, cheese, nuts etc. In general being a fishetarian (know as a pescetarian i.e. eating fish/seafood) makes life much easier, and if you're eating chicken life is easier still since this is the staple of so many diets. In less developed places being a vegan can make things very difficult.

In the country summary section you will find a note regarding the ease of eating and eating veggie in each country. Concluding: 9/10 times being a veggie is not a problem (with a few compromises) and there are many places, mainly India, where it's a joy.

Comment:

I've been a vegan for four years, I absolutely love to travel and I never really found it a big problem even in underdeveloped countries. What I found very handy is a little book called 'vegan passport'. It contains an explanation of all the things a vegan doesn't eat in 56 languages (93% of the world covered). It really does make travelling a lot easier for hard-core veggies. My personal experience is that people in underdeveloped countries usually are very responsive to your personal wishes and it happened to me a lot of times that people (after I managed to make them understand what I don't want in my food) created new delicious vegan meals especially for me and I also never found it a problem to find fruit, vegetables, nuts, rice or legumes anywhere I traveled. In developed countries I never found it a problem at all, in underdeveloped countries being vegan does limit your choices I'll admit, but I never had a problem finding at least something and it's a very safe way of eating in some areas (salmonella, food poisoning etc.) - Kathi

It's worth noting here, that when on the go and travelling hard/fast it can be difficult to take proper meals and get a balance diet. Nuts are normally available to buy and are a great alternative to the omnipresent choice of candy/biscuits plus an excellent source of protein/fat). Many travellers use vitamin pills, buy fruit regularly and will keep a few snacks in their bag incase they get stuck in a jam (bus break-down, restaurants closed etc.) - good advice. It's a little patronising to say, but fairly obvious, that if you don't allow the time or budget and start skipping meals or eating irregularly/unhealthily, you're not doing yourself any favours and will feel run down and eventually probably get sick. The same deal goes with replacing fluids.

? You don't need to be, but for those still worried then a visual translator, which is card full of images (such as food) which you point at for some basic communication can be useful.

 

 

»    English language media

GuidebookThis varies from country to country (see country summaries), but the world is a small place and you can normally get CNN, BBC World or MTV and a copy of Newsweek or Time. In big cities you'll find no problem at all. In less populated areas you will need to stick to the Internet. In the Asian sub-continent, Middle East and Latin America, many hotels (even many hostels) have satellite TV even if this means spending a bit more on your room once in a while. In India, Nepal, Thailand and Central America (among others) you can watched Live Premiership football, NBA basketball or American sit-coms.

In major tourist areas such as Bali, Nepal, Cusco, Goa, Guatemala, Greek islands and Thailand you will find cafes and restaurants playing pirated new movie releases for free or a small charge. Cinemas (movie theatres) are another overlooked - pretty much always in English (apart from Russia and the CIS, Italy, France and Ex-French Africa) - cheap way to escape where you are, the heat and see some moving pictures.

Cinemas are particularly good and widespread in Latin America and 9/10 times films are shown in their original language. The British and American councils in some major cities have a reading room and Internet that can be used even if for a small charge.

» The point of all this: to fill your time, escape your surroundings, stave of any home sickness... - no matter where you are, especially if you have been going for a long time.

RadioMost countries do have their own very cheap English language newspaper and as stated Time and Newsweek are available in all big cities with ex-pat populations worldwide. A LW radio will allow you, for what it's worth, to pick up BBC World Service, Voice of America and others.

 

 

»    BooksRead

Outside of the developed world, India/Nepal, Dar es Salaam/Zanzibar, South East Asia (cheap pirated novels and guidebooks), Costa Rica, Guatemala and Ecuador, getting reasonable priced second hand or new/good English language books can be difficult. Most major tourist destinations and capitals have the odd shop with a few English-language books kicking around, but unless you're into trashy novels or classics, finding something worth reading is challenging.

It's not easy to make a sweeping statement with regards to where you might come across a good selection of reading material and new guidebooks. Asia is by far the easiest place to find such titles with massive selections in Bangkok, India and Kathmandu aside very reasonable selections in most other country's capital cities. You'll find the majority written in English, but where there is a steady tourist stream (say India or Thai beach resorts) second hand German, French and Italian books float around. Where English isn't the first major European language spoken such as continental Europe, Latin America or West Africa where tourist aren't in steady supply, you'll find availability pretty poor, but will often come across at least something in certain destinations (for example Banos in Ecuador). For the most it's either feast or famine.

Buying books in the likes of Bangkok or Nepal, many stores state they will buy them back in good condition at 50% of purchase price. In practice they will do anything to avoid this, so get some evidence that you brought your book there and of the price. Generally, especially in Bangkok, book shops will give you such a pathetic trade-in amount for your much loved books, that you may well feel better just giving them to someone, and if lucky, exchanging them for something else worthwhile. Occasionally you'll find a not-for profit exchange place, although it's common to find either 'trade two, get one' policies or pathetic selections.

If you do plan to re-sell a guidebook these will always fetch a good price: you may want to pick up a plastic/paper cover for it - stopping it getting too battered. Pirated books that originate mainly from South Vietnam and end up in Bangkok and Kathmandu can't be re-sold for a good price. New guidebooks will cost about the same or a little more than they would in your home country. Other titles are okay value.

Travel reading:

BookTravelling is a great time to read and picking the right titles really helps you get under the skin of a culture and to have a much better and more measured understanding of it. Take the excellent Wild Swans for example. Anyone who has read this will know and understand China perhaps better than someone who has visited. Not combining reading a book like this with a visit is only eating half the cake. Even if you are not a big reader, you are strongly encouraged to give it a try. If you're not sure what to go for then on this site are a number of pages recommending a few books that you can't go wrong with. None are too deeply written or boring, many talk through a backpacker's perspective, many are funny and a good number are probably unlike anything you might have read before.

To see these pages click here and select the region you're interested in.

For avid readers in foreign lands who can never find English language books at a reasonable price, look for the 'classics' section in the local bookstores. There is usually a fairly large selection for the equivalent of US$3 or $4 as compared to US$20+ for current titles. You'll find many books throughout Eastern Europe, Africa and also in Asia.

If you are big into reading and not visiting any of the destinations mentioned (see additional information per country in the country summary section), then take a few books with you or pick them up in Oz, NZ, South Africa, the USA, etc.

 

 

»    Washing clothes

Never a problem. With the right fabric clothes, a locally bought sachet of washing powder and travel washing line, doing your own washing is very easy and it will normally dry over night. It's always possible to buy little packets of washing powder and if not a bar of soap or shampoo is always good for the job. Here's a great link for inspiration.

SocksHowever, in most countries you can get laundry done easily and fairly cheaply through your hotel/hostel or local laundry outlet. Problems are rare, but be cautious especially about having technical fibres washed. Asking for a cold wash and no tumble-drying makes sense if you're worried. Considering this you can happily do most of your washing (such as odd items) yourself and have a proper wash done every few weeks.

Comment:

'Fantastic site, very helpful, and definitely not as dramatic as some others I've seen, e.g. take axe with which to build small fortress.... *sigh* ' - 'I've only travelled in SE Asia, and I'm going back next week. I only had one thing that seemed the highest priority for me to get for the return trip: hand sanitizer gel. I couldn't find it anywhere in Thailand, Cambodia or in HCMC (Saigon) last time, and good lord, did I want it! The thing I'm leaving behind this time?

Anything involved with clothes laundering: the laundries there are so cheap, save me the headache of packing damp clothes, and, frankly, I don't think my clothes have EVER been cleaner.' - Carrie Hart

 

 

»    Cultural expectations and culture shock

Many people arrive in Africa, Asia, The Middle East or Latin America with what can only be described as wildly romantic expectations about its people and feel completely let down that everyone is dressed in Western clothing and in villages where people are in ethnic dress, they are only interested in selling you something. Disillusionment of this sort is most extreme in Northern Thailand and East Africa. However, to complain as tourists do, that the world is too commercialised is a little absurd. Those posers and dancers are meeting a demand, doing a job just like you and I, and have every right to expect payment.

Is there such a thing as culture shock?

Culture shock is often both over and understated, and varies considerably as to where you first land. Above all, allow a few days to adapt and expect in less developed countries a much higher level of dirt, pollution and noise than you have at home, being unable to follow the language, feeling somewhat of a target for crime and putting up with accommodation and transport that is not great at the best of times.

This is all perfectly normal and you adapt pretty quickly - in fact culture shock is the best part of travel and the reason why many do it - and there are always ways to recharge. Conversely, many travellers find culture shock on their return from a long trip a greater issue. For many it is much harder to get back into their normal life where everything all of a sudden seems very quiet and shockingly unexotic.

Now here's the good bit. By its very nature, independent travel allows for a greater intermingling with ordinary citizens, the vast majority of whom are not intertwined with tourism. Backpackers are so very fortunate that they will get to see rural Africa/Asia/Latin America, where they discover that most natives, even the poorest, are disarmingly open and hospitable and dare it be said, better people than you and I.

As the world modernises and globalisation keeps trucking on, to expect an entirely traditional society anywhere would be like taking a trip to Dallas and expecting to walk into a western movie!

The sensible attitude to take is to accept how things have become, try to understand it on its own terms and spend some time getting off the beaten track a little.

 

 

»    Toilets

In the developing world and Asia generally the majority of toilets are of the squat genre. This is pretty much always the case where facilities are geared for locals such as at bus stations or cheap hotels. This is however not so much the case in slightly more expensive (still well within budget travel pricing) hotels and restaurants as well as in Africa and Latin America. Apart from a sometimes pungent smell, you soon get use to the squat method and hey, at least you won't catch anything off a loo seat.

Sign within Guatamalian toiltet, kindly supplied by Jan from HamburgWestern toilets are still fitted quite universally in main tourism countries (with Thailand as a notable exception), but can often be blocked or broken, keeping you up all night and being rather smelly. Both the sit down and squat variety often won't have a flush and for this purpose you'll notice a bucket or drum of water and a cup for you to do this manually.

Supply of toilet paper varies per country. Girls - always make sure you have a small supply with you. Remembering not to throw your toilet paper in behind you takes a little getting use to. The pipe systems are too narrow and will get clogged up; throw it into the bin next to the toilet.

Ladies might also want to be conscious that on night and other buses in China, Vietnam and Burma for example, buses just pull over and expect you to get out and take a whiz in a field. No problem for men: girls (the locals don't seem to have a problem with it) may find wearing a long wrap-around skirt allows for more modesty.

Without a doubt you'll come across some truly very smelly toilets and many a novelty. Enjoy!

»    Buying Counterfeit Goods

A few words on buying pirated goods abroad. Many visitors overseas will want to bring a few cheap CDs or DVDs home with them, but to save lugging them around, wish to purchase at the last moment. Here are the best places. One of the best being Vietnam: the south for books, especially guidebooks and the north for software and music CDs. Counterfeit clothing is best in Bangkok, Kathmandu and Beijing, but not widely available.

In most cases some selection of copied CD-ROMs and CDs are available in most less developed major cities and all Asian ones. But, beware, software may not work correctly or have viruses (but are generally fine) and music/MP3 CDs may not be what they claim to be (sometimes you can always try before you buy). These discs are more likely to be sold in established stores rather than off the street.

Newer releases of copy movies DVDs or VCDs are more commonly available off the street in every major city of almost every city in the developing world and are mainly bootleg quality (i.e. recorded by a camcorder in the theatre).

Counterfeit backpacks and other equipment/clothing useful to travellers available in Saigon, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Beijing and Nepal will obviously not be as strong or last as long as originals.

 

 

»    The things you should not do - but might want to know about anyway

In connection with several e-mailed questions and a desire to provide real information in these pages that couldn't be found in guidebooks, wanted to touch upon drugs and vice abroad - two things most independent travellers come across.

PadlockWith the exception of Holland, Rastafarian churches and Coca Tea in South America, drugs are illegal worldwide and always carry strict penalties. The thing is, many of the drugs mentioned are, or have been part of a country's long standing culture and indeed grow wild in many nations. Despite recent strict rules, you will in your travels virtually always come across some form of drugs and considering that many drugs (not all) in small quantities are no more harmful than a beer or a cigarette, will want to try some at a bargain price. This is compounded by the fact that despite these strict rules (normally the death penalty for traffickers or laws (such as in Indonesia) where if you know someone has drugs and you do not inform the authorities, you are also liable for penalty), use is widespread, laws seem to be disregarded and police often seem to turn a blind eye.

» Marijuana: Commonly and generally safely (well easily at least) available in India especially in Goa, mountain regions (e.g. Simla) and Pushkar. Also in Nepal (you will see it growing wild on most treks), North Africa, especially Morocco and Egypt (Dahab), Thailand's Islands, Indochina, México, Costa Rica, Colombia, Brazil, Southern Africa (especially Malawi) and Australia and NZ - to name a few. These are just the most concentrated areas where a scene has sprung up, probably due to lack of police interest and a past or present hippy scene.

Many of these places are not what they once were. Both Dahab and the Thai Islands have passed their heyday some years back. So has South East Asia, where some might recall guesthouses leaving bowls of grass out for guests to help themselves! You will come across marijuana in virtually every country worldwide. (images1 - image2 - Marijuana growing wild off the KKH, Northern Pakistan). Although not a big deal for many travellers, Marijuana can carry some strict penalties in some regions that far outweigh its potency.

» Amphetamines and other pills: Asian pharmacies have very different regulations than in the west. Someone in the know once supplied a huge list of items easily purchased such as Prozac. Don't recall the list and not sure it's a road anyone should go down. The most common pharmacy hits are the 'diet' pills available in Thailand, normally sold by dealers at full moon parties (these now have a large police presence) or passed off as Ecstasy. Realistically, it's not really a good idea to go popping Thai pills you know nothing about that at best give you a rushing around feeling and a few sleepless nights, since they are just basic amphetamine.

It's uncommon to come across amphetamines or meta-amphetamines in their pure form on a traveller circuit. You'll only come across Ecstasy in developed countries, where it is normally more expensive than in western Europe.

» Opium: Opium is easy to obtain and in fact legal for hill tribes in the golden triangle. In most treks from Chang Mai, Thailand you'll come across it. It is most widespread and easy to obtain in Laos. Remember this is Opium not Heroin, which anyone with any sense would avoid. Please also consider ethical issues, such as authorities trying to stop hill farmers growing poppies and encourage them to take up other crops: here you are creating a demand.

» Hallucinogenic: LSD is a drug of yesteryear and it is unlikely you will come across it, however you may be offered magic mushroom on Indonesian and Thai Islands. Generally you will buy your mushrooms and have them made into an omelette. You'll going to have limited knowledge on how strong the effect will be and several people have died taking these mushrooms, normally from going on long swims whilst tripping. In South America there are plants and indeed frogs in the jungle that give psychotropic effects. Substances likes 'daime' or 'ayahuasca' are not illegal in much of South America. Both are two names for the same hallucinogenic that are used in rituals. The effect is similar to magic mushrooms, or peyote, or even LSD. Although technically 'safe', if you've had no previous hallucinogenic experiences or not in the right place/mind, you could be considered a little silly to get into this scene abroad especially where illegal. For legal hallucinogenics there are many specific destinations for those who want to participate with support.

» Cocaine: It's not that common to come across Cocaine in less developed countries on the travellers circuit, except in Colombia, Brazil and Jamaica. Coca leaves and tea are widespread and legal in South America, great for altitude sickness and long treks, but have no real narcotic strength. Even in Colombia, Jamaica and Rio, charley is not that easy to come across, with limited travellers using it and a lot of corrupt policemen selling and busting. It's most widespread on Colombia's Caribbean coast. Getting involved with Cocaine in South America, especially Colombia is a risky business.

Vice: The Philippines and Thailand have somewhat of a reputation for sex tourism. Take a walk through certain areas of any big tourist town and it's easy to see why. However, in the Philippines and many other places prostitution is illegal. In reality (of course) most will end up touching rather than just looking. Go-Go bars are much the same as any strip club in the world (although with more activity available in back private rooms or sofas). Pop into any of these bars and what you will get is many gorgeous girls (many look and probably are under 18) sometimes in swimsuits asking for you to buy them a drink (that's how they make their money - or one of the ways). Girls will give you a lot of attention and continue asking for more drinks. It's obvious that many guys leave with girls (where a leaving fee or 'bar-fine' is normally paid) or head to back-rooms. The more popular the bar, the more 40plus Japanese/Australians/Americans and the more aggressive the girls will be. Don't expect a cheap night out or a clean conscience. Some KTV (karaoke) bars will operate in the same way, only will be more expensive. Massage parlors that offer a viewing gallery to pick your female massager or provide in hotel massages are likely to offer 'extra-services', but where they exist, it's easy to see what these places are about a mile off.

Whether you are aware of it or not , prostitution is rife in many parts of Asia, Russia, Europe and Brazil/Central America, with Manila/Angeles, Rio and Bangkok/Pattaya the sex holiday destinations of choice. Most backpackers in Bangkok for example take in a show in Pat Pong and have offers of prostitution at some stage (normally from free-lancers hanging out in more up-market and hotel bars), that they shyly turn away and that's it. And how it should be. Whereas narcotics were discussed in detail, there's nothing more really to say about this subject, considering its questionable ethics. It's not common, but you should also consider, you may end up with a transgendered individual or if you take a girl back to your room, end up with a rape/under-age charge when the police turn up the next morning with the crying (faking) girl. Equally, Aids/HIV is an issue in all the aforementioned places and so are other STDs - remember condoms are not 100% foolproof.

 

Hot sun & catcusGetting involved with any of the above you cross a line where you are playing with different rules and have no recourse to the law. Over that line, you are open to lying, cheating and entrapment. When it comes to drugs, you may get ripped off when buying, you maybe robbed under the effects or be sold drugs by a dealer who heads straight to the police for a tip. All are possible; if you do get involved be very, very careful (no responsibility taken here), take drugs in your room, not in public, buy from guesthouse/bar owners never from the street, check out the scene, know what you are doing, don't carry contraband on your person and never, never, never carry anything across international boundaries. All common sense really. It is just backpackers get carried away since it is so cheap, seems almost legal and they are on holiday to enjoy themselves. If you can't be good at least be careful.

 

 

 

»    Other tips - but not so good ones!

There are loads of other tips that are spread widely, floating around guidebooks, the web and travellers conversations.

Listed right are a few typical examples, if only to spell out that these sort of tips sound okay at home, if not making you a little unnecessarily apprehensive, but when you get to your destination of choice, are completely unnecessary, impractical and have you sticking out like a sore thumb.

Examples of this slightly paranoid stuff are:

  • Carrying all your money under an elastic knee or wrist support.
  • Buying a woven potato or fertilizer bag at a local market and putting your backpack in it when travelling to disguise it.
  • Wearing a small whistle around your neck at all times so that you can alarm others in case you're being attacked and perhaps scare away the attacker.
  • Taking a bottle of mace or stun gun with you for protection - you could land yourself in serious trouble for this one.

 

 

[

If there is anything else you would like details on, feel is omitted or would like to add yourself, then please get in touch.

]

 

"Travel, in the younger sort, is a part of education; in the elder, a part of experience" 

Francis Bacon

 

[ back to part one ]

BACK TO INDEX


[


]