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Here's
part two, of 'on the road' - things you'll probably give consideration to while
travelling and how to deal with them. This section contains a lot of information
and being a large document, is kept on two pages in two parts - this being part
two.
You could click here to see
the entire document at once (large page - only recommended for faster connections).
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» Got a
fast connection? Click here to see part
one and two on the same page. |
Guidebooks
Nowhere is the phrase 'you can't live with them and you can't
live without them' so appropriate. The often invidious guidebook is very much
a travel essential, increasingly dictating to whole generations where to go,
how to get there and what to do. As touted by their publishers they are becoming
modern day Bibles, some already assuming titles like 'The Book'.
All over the world you can see twenty somethings - and increasingly
older - often desperate for succour, with their heads stuck in guidebooks. Reading,
re-reading, desperately trying to find the best possible routes and the best
possible places as if encoded somewhere in the pages. Often pens are at hand
to underline or highlight anything that reads even slightly as an opinion or
solid recommendation. The problem is everyone is doing the same and generally
reading from the same text - let's not beat around the bush, it's Lonely Planet,
with its appealing glossy colour pictures, familiar layout and youthful feel.
At well-trodden sights worldwide you will see individual after individual (in
the loosest possible way) strolling around guidebook in hand with their finger
in the relevant page.
There are recommendations of field tested guides, per country
in the country summary section and in the
recommended reading section (a big thank you if you
choose to shop through here), but here's a quick low down:
»
Lonely Planet (aka. LP):
The most ubiquitous of all guides, often with solid information, but
not always up-to-date. Often patronizing, boring with a recycled first
100 or so pages and recommendations generally over subscribed. They
do cover some interesting locations (the Caucasus, Iran and Syria for
example) and sometimes are the only choice. Their region in one, or
shoestring titles are appallingly lacking in depth and information.
LP's vary from very good to awful.
It all depends on the edition and author. However, their maps are probably
the best of all guides. Newer titles are now published in a jazzy format
(with questionable 'authors choice' recommendations), but can be better
than older versions.
This major change for those who remember the original format is very much a result of the original founders and authors (the Wheelers) no longer in control of the operation. The new formats do look more professional and as a result are less aimed at typical backpackers, losing their youthful, independent, adventurous spirit. The increasing professionalism of the management (some would say bottom line focused, milk the cash cow business acumen) is likely an attempt to break into the massive United States market (which is relatively conservative and prone to litigation) and increase revenue, all of which has meant that the quirky, amateurish (in the best sense) tone of the early books has diminished.
For example, an early edition of Africa on a shoestring has the heading 'Drugs', which includes information on purchasing drugs (mainly marijuana), while the 1980 edition of South-East Asia on a Shoestring includes information on how to purchase fake student ID cards - all of which you would now never find. Other quirks included some hand-drawn maps and the occasional strong/radical opinion. Some strong opinions remain, but they are party lines and for the best part closed minded. In 2007, the BBC purchased Lonely Planet (The Wheelers keep 25%), so we can see where this takes the business.
Lonely Planet's initial strength has caused some problems. With many equating Lonely Planet with backpackers. The series now tries to make a clearer split between the backpacker-only products and those (now the majority) aimed at more affluent travellers and tourists. These are by far the best selling and most popular
guides where a recommendation can make or break a hotel or restaurant.
(see image)
»
Bradt:
Acclaimed African guidebooks, their East and Southern Africa backpackers
manual is a very fine guide indeed, perhaps the best and most down-to-earth
written and detailed filled out there. Others are quite good especially African and other out of the way countries, but can suffer from being out-of-date and have a somewhat
amateur look to them compared to the big boys of the industry.
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» Rough Guide: Maybe the most in-depth and informative of guides available. Their structure
can need getting use to if you have only previously used other guides.
Sometimes seemingly aimed at older travellers and those with their own
transportation, these books are a good read as well as a good guide.
However, titles don't cover as wide a range of countries as LPs and
older titles are nowhere near as good as newer ones, which are first
rate in most cases. As with Lonely Planet, multi-region guides are far
from perfect. European guides are excellent and their alternatives to
over popular titles i.e. LP's India/Thailand are a perfect alternative
to get away from the crowds. If you are planning a trip a great first
stop in the planning process is Rough Guide's First Time
series.
»
Let's Go: Once
you get past their dogged look (new editions have a new format
and look a lot smarter, but are less budget focused) and the fact that
they are highly American, with sometimes not always good humour,
they're not bad. The fact that they do contain humour is actually a
real plus, so is the fact that they are one of the only guides that
makes real recommendations and focuses on budget travel.
They are also one of the most accurate, being updated yearly.
Accommodation listings are however slim and normally include only
a few backpackery choices - which may not be what you're after. These
guides are perhaps best avoided in regions with many young American
travellers. Let's Go guides are written and updated by Harvard students
every year. In recent years more exotic locations, i.e.
Middle East have been left un-updated and the focus is on 'safer' destinations
in Europe.
»
Footprint:
An excellent series, intelligently put together, sometimes on
fine paper (really condensing content) and perhaps the only multi-country
guides worth having. The South or Central America Handbook is a serious
project and puts the Lonely Planet and other versions to shame. Limited titles
and often terrible town maps are their only let down. Footprint also
seem to rave about places off-the-beaten track that when you arrive
can be less than inspiring.
»
Others: There
are also good German (Stefan Loose) and French language (Routard) guidebooks available, as well as free FAQ travel guides that can be
found on the internet. The
German 'Reise Know-How' and other non-English guides are often
direct translations of Lonely Planet, but some editions aren't and
have greater detail and accuracy.
You will also sometimes find excellent regional guides such as 'BUG' Australia, NZ and UK/Ireland, or the excellent 'In your pocket' free city guides in Eastern Europe.
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Guidebooks are necessary (as a sort
of safety net) in most destinations, and you will have to excuse the contempt
that stems from travellers' over dependence on them and their failure to see
past the blue spines of the Lonely Planet guides. Contrary to popular belief
it is possible to travel without a guidebook: you'll find plenty of information
available from locals, guesthouses, tourist information and other sources. Not
to mention the numerous opportunities you'll have to peruse the guidebooks of
others.
It's hard to gauge if flicking through one in a book store or if using a very recently updated copy in the most popular destinations of well traveled countries, but many a guidebook is full of rubbish. Many companies bang out guides for as many countries as they can, whereas others employ authors who really know the region and know what travel is like in order to present the most relevant information. Considering the budget many travel writers are given and the range they must cover (often as quickly as possible), it is hardly surprising that some will be happy to recommend restaurants and hotels after only spending 10mins checking them out or maybe not even visiting at all. Thomas Kohnstamm a former Lonely Planet writer in an interview promoting his book in the (Oz) Sunday Telegraph spoke freely of fallible methods used. Best of all was his claim that despite a contribution to the LP Colombia he had never been to the country, "They didn't pay me enough to go to Colombia. I wrote the book in San Francisco. I got the information from a chick I was dating". More amusing were claims such as noting "the table service is friendly" in a restaurant he says he had sex with a waitress on a table after hours. Probably one of the free services he said he would often accept. Such claims are nothing new, take a look at an interesting article (if the link is still working), titled: the
truth about guidebooks, written by a former author.
Even the best title is far from perfect, and series vary
dramatically as authors and publication dates vary. The best
tip to offer is don't be afraid to try something new. Pick a guide
that is not the normal choice. How can you say Lonely Planet is the
best guide when you haven't tried another?
One of the best tips you'll get from this site is (if you can,
i.e. a good alternative is available) at
least try to travel with a non-LP guide especially if you are heading
to a popular destination. Along with the launch of a new format (which is better in some ways, but much
more opinionated (a dangerous thing for such a widely used guide)) and
many new 'packaged' products, LP has certainly taken a more corporate
turn now that the Wheelers (original founders) have sold a large share
of it. This coincides with the company taking yet another step up their
own arse, so proud and confident they are of their travel empire. The
emphasis is now very much on selling rather than creating original
guides and independent advice.
Nevertheless, for the most part there is nothing wrong with Lonely Planet guides. All guides have their faults and LPs are no different - only you will be another LP sheep, walking around with the same bland guide as thousands (make that hundreds of thousands) of others.
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E-mailed suggestion 'With
large regional guide books (you don't need to do this for single country
guides), that you have no chance of reselling, a friend suggested tearing
pages out as needed. Not only reducing the weight of the book while
travelling, but meaning you need only carry a few pages (e.g. map) around
when sightseeing or in town. Was appalled initially at the idea, but
when tried realised it made sense and made you feel a lot better since
most of the information was so bad!'' If you do decide to rip them apart so that you can only carry the pieces that are/will be useful to you the best way to do this [for the LP among others] is to put them in the microwave. Usually about 30 seconds will do. It melts the glue in the spine allowing the pages to come out effortless and more importantly without any loss of information' - Nicholas Shirley
It's a great idea. Give it a go if you have a huge guide, you'll
never look back. Of course a little photocopying is another
option. It's well worth
making a copy of maps and other relevant info to take out with you when looking around. Who wants to carry a great guidebook with them everywhere?
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A good indication of a guidebook
series is to consider the title that launched them. For Lonely Planet - South
East Asia on a Shoestring; Let's Go - Europe (one of the world's best selling guidebook
title); Rough Guide - Greece (a relative newcomer and mainly focused around Europe);
Footprint - South America Handbook (the world's longest running guidebook and
the essential series for the whole Latin America region).
Staying in touch
You may have notions that your exotic travel will take you far
away from the modern world and all means of staying in touch. This
is, however, rarely the case for any more than a short spell as the Internet is virtually everywhere (at least in any city of any
size across the world with very, very few exceptions) and ADSL connections are finding there way into more and more larger cities
of developing nations and many smaller towns that have a regular
tourist/traveller through-flow.
The spread of mobile communications, the internet and the
recent rise of faster and better connections has been phenomenal,
making the world much smaller and making staying in touch with
others and the world at large a breeze. If you don't already have
one, create yourself a free webmail e-mail address/account (such as Hotmail, Yahoo Mail or
better Gmail)
that can be accessed from any Internet terminal in the world. Prices
for internet access are normally quite reasonable and you never
normally have to search too hard for a connection on the tourist trail.
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An internet connection keeps you in touch with the things that
normally matter at home, such as keeping track of friends, family, the news, sports or anything else. Faster connections are opening up
a whole new world to travellers, from downloading pod-casts and
e-mailing the odd photo home to updating an on-line travelogue or
even listening to live radio shows. You find many PCs in internet
cafes that have MSN/Yahoo Messenger installed and this is
an excellent way to make contact with friends/relatives and have a
live chat without the cost of an international phone call.
It is also not uncommon to find in larger more professional
internet cafes located normally in the larger cities of Asian
'technophile' nations (such as Manila, Seoul, Singapore etc),
web cams and headsets you can use (via MSN or other) to send a live
image home. If a web cam is not present, which to be honest is
something of a novelty, someone back home will still be able to
stream you their image via newer versions of MSN or other software
installed.
It is also worth noting and mentioning here, that
bigger more professional internet places will often burn your
digital photos to a CD. Many will have a card reader, but not
all, so you might want to take your own connection lead. To
generalise horribly, you will find this service in any major capital
or larger city which is a significant tourist attraction in Asia. In Latin
America the same is true, but you need to look harder. In Africa you
have to look harder still. In Europe/North America with less
widespread internet cafes you can still find these services.
Wherever you are, if in doubt, just ask. Most places have a CD
burner at the desk and are happy to help even if they don't
advertise the service.
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It really
depends where you are, but slow connections still haunt most travellers and can be incredibly
frustrating especially since most of us have become so use to ADSL
speeds in the developed world. If you are off the beaten track in
the developing world, you'll need patience, but here are a few tips:
For the
fastest connections in locations with less than inspiring speeds,
look for empty internet cafes at periods where there is limited
traffic on the net (early morning). Also bear in mind that many
internet cafes only have one or two connections which are
shared/split between users. So two users equals half the speed, four
users quarter the speed and so on. It's worth setting your webmail account
to only show 10 or less messages at a time, diverting junk mail into
a separate folder and not having a webmail account full of
advertising (most of the major providers) to speed up your webmail
use when connections are painfully slow.
Couples can easily share the same
webmail account to save paying for the lengthy log on process just
to check for new mail. Two users can log onto the same account at
the same time - no problem. If a connection is very poor, leave the
provider and come back later - periodic network problems are common
where technology infrastructure is still developing. However, such
measures are becoming less and less necessary as ADSL connections
find their way into more and more of the developing world. Nowadays,
in big cities of even the most tin-pot countries you can normally
find excellent speed connections. |
Well worth doing and a perfect use
for your webmail account is storing your important info
(reference numbers, important phone numbers, insurance details, etc.)
on your internet account (just put it in an e-mail and send it to
yourself). If you have access to a scanner you can store copies of
your important documents on-line. If you lose your originals and
hard-copies you can always retrieve them from the net.
As any web search will testify, a new
generation of travellers on longer trips are frequently making use of web
blogs. They're free to set up from numerous providers, you can upload photos, everyone can read
them (or you can limit access) and friends/family have the option of
posting messages, making it a little more personal. Hardly a
necessity, but does have some merits such as if you don't have time
to email all of your friends and family (assuming they are actually
interested in your travels), but don't want to send impersonal group
emails.
Phoning
home is often expensive, but costs are falling with call centres
found in many larger cities (often using internet phone or
international discounters). In developed countries
buy calling cards locally and use on pay phones. New Zealand to
Europe with a locally bought calling card would be cheaper than a
North - South Island call in New Zealand. Such calling cards are
available all over reasonably developed Asian countries such as
Thailand, Singapore, Philippines etc. (try convenience stores
such as 7-Eleven).
In much less developed countries you will have to
really hunt for these calling cards if available, so a good method
to talk to someone back home is to ask the hotel you are staying in
if you can receive a phone call there. Then e-mail/SMS a time and
number to those who wish to call.
Worth noting is if you have an international SIM (mentioned left) and it is giving you free incoming calls where you are, using services like Jajah.com cuts costs still
further. You could take a calling card from your
home country (e.g. BT charge card or AT&T) with you for emergencies,
but beware using them is very expensive and unnecessary.
In addition to Yahoo/MSN messenger mentioned above,
many will no doubt be aware of Skype, which
allows you to call nearly or absolutely free from anywhere to
anywhere, transfer huge data (photos/music) files and live text
messages as with MSN. You just a need a to find a internet place with a headset or webcam and the free software installed. This really depends on regions, but to be
honest, it's still not that common. Calls are free Skype-to-Skype, and for 'Skypeout'
(to call regular phones) or 'Skypein' (to receive calls from regular
phones) only a small fee is charged and call costs are
incredibly low. It's
all pretty cool if you are in a position to utilise it all. There's
loads more information and probably a better explanation of services
and charges on Skype's website. |
Probably
the biggest measure of a rapidly developing world aside from the
proliferation of internet cafes is the use of cellular / mobile
phones even in some of the world's poorer countries. Major North
American/Australian and European networks which allow roaming, will
pick up a signal in the vast majority of the populated world. Taking a cell
phone has many advantages and is recommended (see the 'What to Pack' page), but several
disadvantages, most notably the potential cost of actually using it. If roaming on your home network,
call costs (made or received) will be significant, but SMS message costs are
manageable, normally being a fixed rate and free to receive.
If you intend to use your mobile a lot, really the best bet is to buy a local pay-as-you-go SIM card which
can normally be found without too much trouble (make sure your phone is 'unlocked' if you plan to do this). However this is only really practical if you are staying in one destination for sometime and if moving around from country to country like most, highly impractical and uneconomical. The second solution is to buy one of the now widely available international SIM cards, which can be great, but are far from an ideal solution simply because how useful they are in saving you money depends on where you are in the world. They do however allow you to receive calls for free in many countries and reduce call costs in many others compared to roaming on your home network, but only really do so in the developed world. If you are travelling to the likes of Spain, France, Germany, etc., the savings you can make are significant and make them well worth having. Take the same trip, but through India, China, Thailand and the like, and making and receiving calls will be almost as expensive - if not sometimes more - than roaming with your home network - that is astronomical if used for any length of time. One such company that comes recommended is Go Sim (although there are many alternatives such as 0044 and doing the research on where and when you will save money is recommended before diving in. |
Of course
you can send postcards and letters as a means of staying in touch, which although a little old school
for a younger generation, are still nice and allows for inclusion of a small
tangible present for those at home. On a longer trip it is quite feasible and a good
idea to post many of your purchases and unused equipment home. A
great place to do this is Bangkok. Here is a sample of the costs to
anywhere in the world (prices in Thai Baht - see on-line for
exchange rates, about 45 to the Euro) - see below.
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A nice box is provided at a small cost and the air option
will arrive in the Europe in about five days, sea will take considerably
longer at more risk. Mailing things home from most of Asia is
no problem. Burma is cheap, but higher risk, Vietnam expensive. India
and Iran are good/cheap. With large parcels always get your stamps franked
before you give the item in and pay extra for registration if possible.
Costs are much higher in Australia & NZ, and especially Latin America. |
| Kg |
Air |
Surface |
Sea |
| 1 |
900 |
950 |
800 |
| 2 |
1280 |
1125 |
1080 |
| 3 |
1660 |
1500 |
1360 |
| 4 |
2040 |
1495 |
1640 |
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A guide as to how reliable/fast the postal service is in your country
of stay can always be found in a guidebook. Remember, if you are sending something home new you have purchased on your trip and of high value, there is a chance that you or whoever picks it up, can get hit for customs/import duty at its destination.
You can also receive letters via the GPO's
(General Post Offices) who will hold your mail, addressing in the following
way will suffice: Poste Restante, Attn: First Name LAST NAME, GPO, Town,
Country. Or if you have an American Express card (AmEx issue a booklet of all
their addresses) you can receive mail at their offices.
Eating and vegetarianism
For the most part, if sticking to a fairly standard and well
trodden route even in far flung destinations, getting a decent meal or at least
something okay is not a big problem and nothing to worry about - with places
catering to tourists plentiful. Being a veggie will limit your
choices in many regions, but will not be too great a problem - you will pretty
much always find something suitable to eat even if you are a vegan.
Within the developed world such as Western Europe the
greater challenge is not what to eat, but how to do so on a budget. In such
places cheaper restaurants and take-outs can be located with a little exploring
and the help of a guidebook; and a fast food joints will never be far away, but for the most part a little self-catering makes
better sense for those who are sick of burgers and won't want all their funds gone after a few weeks.
Supermarkets and convenience stores are normally plentiful and having your own
knife-fork-spoon kit plus a Swiss army knife complete with bottle, can and tin
opener will allow you to take advantage of them to a greater extent. To go the
whole hog you could pick up a plastic plate/bowl. All this is perfect for food
on the go, a cheap snack (whipping up a sandwich, peeling fruit, a yogurt or spreading something on a cracker) and for trips when you don't have the time to always eat out and
spend a good deal of time on trains/buses. When staying in hostels, most will
have a basic kitchen you can use and supply something basic for breakfast. However, as you will find out these vary dramatically
in quality, facilities and hygiene.
Away from the developed world in popular destinations in the developing world such
as Thailand, India, Nepal, Peru and tens of others on the beaten track (pretty
much all the places you will want to go) good food can be found in both local
and international forms in hotels and towns with no difficulty at all. If you
want to use more local eating places, you'll see loads - just be brave and head
in. A guidebook or locals will always point you in the right direction. Away from the
tourist runs of South-East/Southern Asia and Central/South America in destinations like
much of Africa/Central Asia and out of the way places in the aforementioned
regions you can occasionally run into some problems where you need to be a little
more adventurous since traveller friendly places are pretty rare. You'll no
doubt find a fair few places without a menu (or at least one you can make any
sense of - see image of menu in
Iran) or anyone who speaks English,
so have an idea of what you want beforehand, point to someone else's food or
learn the appropriate word for the type of food you want such as 'fish', 'omelet',
'chicken'. It goes without saying that if you really want to travel on the cheap it's these local places and street stalls where you can make your funds stretch
seriously far compared to eating at the numerous places set up to cater for
foreigners. (see image - resulting
order from menu linked image above)
It's in these cheap local/street eateries away from the tourist runs where veggies will find life a little more difficult,
but items such as veg fried rice or an omelette are perfect to fall back on.
It's true to say many cultures don't understand the concept of being a vegetarian.
It's really most difficult to keep to a vegetarian diet in Islamic countries
such as any Arab nation, Iran, Pakistan, Western China and especially Central Asia (CIS). In these
cases and others self-catering is by far the best option if a veggie
or otherwise you find yourself in a bind. Fruit and bread will always be easy
to find, the same normally goes for tomatoes, cheese, nuts etc. In general being
a fishetarian (know as a pescetarian i.e. eating fish/seafood) makes life much easier, and if you're
eating chicken life is easier still since this is the staple of so many diets.
In less developed places being a vegan can make things very difficult.
In the country summary section you will find a note regarding
the ease of eating and eating veggie in each country. Concluding: 9/10 times
being a veggie is not a problem (with a few compromises) and there are many places,
mainly India, where it's a joy.
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I've been a vegan for four years, I absolutely love to travel and I never really found it a big problem even in underdeveloped countries.
What I found very handy is a little book called 'vegan passport'.
It contains an explanation of all the things a vegan doesn't eat in 56 languages (93% of the world covered). It really does make travelling a lot easier for hard-core veggies.
My personal experience is that people in underdeveloped countries usually are very responsive to your personal wishes and it happened to me a lot of times that people (after I managed to make them understand what I don't want in my food) created new delicious vegan meals especially for me and I also never found it a problem to find fruit, vegetables, nuts, rice or legumes anywhere I traveled.
In developed countries I never found it a problem at all, in underdeveloped countries being vegan does limit your choices I'll admit, but I never had a problem finding at least something and it's a very safe way of eating in some areas (salmonella, food poisoning etc.) - Kathi
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It's worth noting here, that when on the go and travelling
hard/fast it can be difficult to take proper meals and get a balance diet. Nuts
are normally available to buy and are a great alternative to the omnipresent
choice of candy/biscuits plus an excellent source of protein/fat). Many travellers
use vitamin pills, buy fruit regularly and will keep a few snacks in their bag
incase they get stuck in a jam (bus break-down, restaurants closed etc.)
- good advice. It's a little patronising to say, but fairly obvious, that if
you don't allow the time or budget and start skipping meals or eating irregularly/unhealthily,
you're not doing yourself any favours and will feel run down and
eventually probably get sick. The same deal goes with replacing fluids.
You don't need to be, but for those still worried then a visual translator, which is card full of images (such as food) which you point at for some basic communication can be useful.
English language media
This varies from country to country (see country summaries), but the world is a small place
and you can normally get CNN, BBC World or MTV and a copy of Newsweek
or Time. In big cities you'll find no problem at all. In less populated
areas you will need to stick to the Internet. In the Asian sub-continent, Middle
East and Latin America, many hotels (even many hostels) have satellite TV even if this means spending a bit more on your room once in a while. In India,
Nepal, Thailand and Central America (among others) you can watched Live Premiership
football, NBA basketball or American sit-coms.
In major tourist areas such as Bali, Nepal,
Cusco, Goa, Guatemala, Greek islands and Thailand you will find cafes
and restaurants playing pirated new movie releases for free or a small
charge. Cinemas (movie theatres) are another overlooked - pretty
much always in English (apart from Russia and the CIS, Italy, France and Ex-French Africa) - cheap way to escape where you are, the heat
and see some moving pictures.
Cinemas are particularly good and widespread
in Latin America and 9/10 times films are shown in their original language.
The British and American councils in some major cities have a
reading room and Internet that can be used even if for a small charge.
» The point of all this: to fill your time, escape your surroundings,
stave of any home sickness... - no matter where you are, especially if you
have been going for a long time. |
Most countries do have their own very
cheap English language newspaper and as stated Time and Newsweek are
available in all big cities with ex-pat populations worldwide. A LW radio will allow you, for what it's worth, to pick up BBC World
Service, Voice of America and others.
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Books
Outside of the developed world, India/Nepal, Dar es Salaam/Zanzibar,
South East Asia (cheap pirated novels and guidebooks), Costa Rica, Guatemala
and Ecuador, getting reasonable priced second hand or new/good English language
books can be difficult. Most major tourist destinations and capitals have the
odd shop with a few English-language books kicking around, but unless you're into trashy novels or classics,
finding something worth reading is challenging.
It's not easy to make a sweeping statement with regards to
where you might come across a good selection of reading material and new guidebooks.
Asia is by far the easiest place to find such titles with massive selections
in Bangkok, India and Kathmandu aside very reasonable selections in most other
country's capital cities. You'll find the majority written in English, but where
there is a steady tourist stream (say India or Thai beach resorts) second hand
German, French and Italian books float around. Where English isn't the first
major European language spoken such as continental Europe, Latin America or
West Africa where tourist aren't in steady supply, you'll find availability
pretty poor, but will often come across at least something in certain destinations
(for example Banos in Ecuador). For the most it's either feast or famine.
Buying books in the likes of Bangkok or Nepal, many
stores state they will buy them back in good condition at 50% of purchase
price. In practice they will do anything to avoid this, so get some
evidence that you brought your book there and of the price. Generally,
especially in Bangkok, book shops will give you such a pathetic trade-in
amount for your much loved books, that you may well feel better just
giving them to someone, and if lucky, exchanging them for something else
worthwhile. Occasionally you'll find a not-for profit exchange place,
although it's common to find either 'trade two, get one' policies or pathetic
selections.
If you do plan to re-sell a guidebook these will
always fetch a good price: you may want to pick up a plastic/paper cover
for it - stopping it getting too battered. Pirated books that originate
mainly from South Vietnam and end up in Bangkok and Kathmandu can't
be re-sold for a good price. New guidebooks will cost about the same
or a little more than they would in your home country. Other titles
are okay value.
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Travelling
is a great time to read and picking the right titles really helps you
get under the skin of a culture and to have a much better and more measured
understanding of it. Take the excellent
Wild Swans for example. Anyone
who has read this will know and understand China perhaps better than
someone who has visited. Not combining reading a book like this with
a visit is only eating half the cake. Even if you are not a big reader,
you are strongly encouraged to give it a try. If you're not sure what
to go for then on this site are a number of pages recommending a few
books that you can't go wrong with. None are too deeply written or boring,
many talk through a backpacker's perspective, many are funny and a good
number are probably unlike anything you might have read before.
To see
these pages click here and select the region
you're interested in.
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For avid readers in foreign lands
who can never find English language books at a reasonable price, look for the
'classics' section in the local bookstores. There is usually a fairly large
selection for the equivalent of US$3 or $4 as compared to US$20+ for current
titles. You'll find many books throughout Eastern Europe, Africa and also in
Asia.
If you are big into reading and not
visiting any of the destinations mentioned (see additional information per country
in the country summary section), then take a few
books with you or pick them up in Oz, NZ, South Africa, the USA, etc.
Washing clothes
Never
a problem. With the right fabric clothes, a locally bought sachet of
washing powder and travel washing line, doing your own washing
is very easy and it will normally dry over night. It's always possible
to buy little packets of washing powder and if not a bar of soap or shampoo is
always good for the job. Here's a great link for inspiration.
However,
in most countries you can get laundry done easily and fairly cheaply through
your hotel/hostel or local laundry outlet. Problems are rare, but be
cautious especially about having technical fibres washed. Asking for
a cold wash and no tumble-drying makes sense if you're worried. Considering this you
can happily do most of your washing (such as odd items) yourself and
have a proper wash done every few weeks.
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'Fantastic site, very helpful, and definitely
not as dramatic as some others I've seen, e.g. take axe with which to
build small fortress.... *sigh* ' - 'I've only travelled in SE Asia,
and I'm going back next week. I only had one thing that seemed the highest
priority for me to get for the return trip: hand sanitizer gel. I couldn't find it anywhere in Thailand, Cambodia or in HCMC (Saigon)
last time, and good lord, did I want it! The thing I'm leaving behind
this time?
Anything involved with clothes laundering: the laundries
there are so cheap, save me the headache of packing damp clothes, and,
frankly, I don't think my clothes have EVER been cleaner.' - Carrie
Hart
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Cultural expectations and culture shock
Many people arrive in Africa, Asia, The Middle East or Latin
America with what can only be described as wildly romantic expectations about
its people and feel completely let down that everyone is dressed in Western
clothing and in villages where people are in ethnic dress, they are only interested
in selling you something. Disillusionment of this sort is most extreme in Northern
Thailand and East Africa. However, to complain as tourists do, that the world
is too commercialised is a little absurd. Those posers and dancers are meeting a
demand, doing a job just like you and I, and have every right to expect payment.
Culture shock is often both over and
understated, and varies considerably as to where you first land. Above
all, allow a few days to adapt and expect in less developed countries
a much higher level of dirt, pollution and noise than you have at home,
being unable to follow the language, feeling somewhat of a target for
crime and putting up with accommodation and transport that is not great
at the best of times.
This is all perfectly normal and you adapt pretty quickly - in fact
culture shock is the best part of travel and the reason why many do
it - and there are always ways to recharge. Conversely, many travellers
find culture shock on their return from a long trip a greater issue. For many it is much harder to get back into their normal life where everything all of a sudden seems very quiet and shockingly unexotic.
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Now here's the good bit.
By its very nature, independent travel allows for a greater intermingling
with ordinary citizens, the vast majority of whom are not intertwined
with tourism. Backpackers are so very fortunate that they will get to
see rural Africa/Asia/Latin America, where they discover that most natives,
even the poorest, are disarmingly open and hospitable and dare it be
said, better people than you and I.
As the world modernises and globalisation keeps trucking on, to expect an entirely traditional
society anywhere would be like taking a trip to Dallas and expecting
to walk into a western movie!
The
sensible attitude to take is to accept how things have become, try
to understand it on its own terms and spend some time getting off
the beaten track a little. |
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Toilets
In the developing world and Asia generally the majority of toilets are
of the squat genre. This is pretty much always the case where facilities
are geared for locals such as at bus stations or cheap hotels. This
is however not so much the case in slightly more expensive (still well
within budget travel pricing) hotels and restaurants as well
as in Africa and Latin America. Apart from a sometimes pungent smell,
you soon get use to the squat method and hey, at least you won't catch
anything off a loo seat.
Western toilets are still
fitted quite universally in main tourism countries (with Thailand as
a notable exception), but can often be blocked or broken, keeping you
up all night and being rather smelly. Both the sit down and
squat
variety often won't have a flush and for this purpose you'll notice
a bucket or drum of water and a cup for you to do this manually.
Supply of toilet paper varies per country. Girls -
always make sure you have a small supply with you. Remembering not to
throw your toilet paper in behind you takes a little getting use to.
The pipe systems are too narrow and will get clogged up; throw it into
the bin next to the toilet.
Ladies might also want to be conscious that on night
and other buses in China, Vietnam and Burma for example, buses just
pull over and expect you to get out and take a whiz in a field. No problem
for men: girls (the locals don't seem to have a problem with it) may
find wearing a long wrap-around skirt allows for more modesty.
Without a doubt you'll come across some truly very
smelly toilets and many a novelty. Enjoy!
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Buying Counterfeit Goods
A few words on buying pirated goods abroad. Many visitors overseas will want to bring a few cheap CDs
or DVDs home with them, but to save lugging them around, wish to purchase at
the last moment. Here are the best places. One of the best being Vietnam: the
south for books, especially guidebooks and the north for software and music CDs. Counterfeit
clothing is best in Bangkok, Kathmandu and Beijing, but not widely available.
In
most cases some selection of copied CD-ROMs and CDs are available in most less
developed major cities and all Asian ones. But, beware, software may not work correctly or have viruses (but
are generally fine) and music/MP3 CDs may not be what they claim to be (sometimes
you can always try before you buy). These discs are more likely to be
sold in established stores rather than off the street.
Newer releases
of copy movies DVDs or VCDs are more commonly available off the street in every major city of almost every city in the developing world and
are mainly bootleg quality (i.e. recorded by a camcorder in the
theatre).
Counterfeit
backpacks and other equipment/clothing useful to travellers available
in Saigon, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Beijing and Nepal will obviously not
be as strong or last as long as originals.
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The things you should not do - but might want to
know about anyway
In connection with several e-mailed questions and a desire
to provide real information in these pages that couldn't be found in guidebooks,
wanted to touch upon drugs and vice abroad - two things most independent travellers
come across.
With the exception of Holland, Rastafarian churches
and Coca Tea in South America, drugs are illegal worldwide and always carry
strict penalties. The thing is, many of the drugs mentioned are, or have
been part of a country's long standing culture and indeed grow wild in many
nations. Despite recent strict rules, you will in your travels virtually always
come across some form of drugs and considering that many drugs (not all) in
small quantities are no more harmful than a beer or a cigarette, will want to
try some at a bargain price. This is compounded by the fact that despite these
strict rules (normally the death penalty for traffickers or laws (such as in Indonesia) where if you know someone has drugs and you do not inform
the authorities, you are also liable for penalty), use is widespread, laws seem
to be disregarded and police often seem to turn a blind eye.
» Marijuana:
Commonly and generally safely (well easily at least) available in India
especially in Goa, mountain regions (e.g. Simla) and Pushkar. Also
in Nepal (you will see it growing wild on most treks), North Africa, especially
Morocco and Egypt (Dahab), Thailand's Islands, Indochina, México, Costa
Rica, Colombia, Brazil, Southern Africa (especially Malawi) and Australia
and NZ - to name a few. These are just the most concentrated areas where a scene has sprung
up, probably due to lack of police interest and a past or present hippy scene.
Many of these places are not what they once were. Both Dahab and
the Thai Islands have passed their heyday some years back. So has South East Asia,
where some might recall guesthouses leaving bowls of grass out for guests
to help themselves! You will come across marijuana in virtually every country
worldwide. (images1 - image2 - Marijuana
growing wild off the KKH, Northern Pakistan). Although not a big deal for many travellers, Marijuana can carry some strict penalties in some regions that far outweigh its potency.
» Amphetamines and other pills: Asian pharmacies have very
different regulations than in the west. Someone in the know once
supplied a huge list of items easily purchased such as
Prozac. Don't recall the list and not sure it's a road anyone should go down. The most common pharmacy
hits are the 'diet' pills available in Thailand, normally sold
by dealers at full moon parties (these now have a large police
presence) or passed off as Ecstasy. Realistically, it's not really a good idea to go
popping Thai pills you know nothing about that at best give you
a rushing around feeling and a few sleepless nights, since they
are just basic amphetamine.
It's uncommon to come across
amphetamines or meta-amphetamines in their pure form on a
traveller circuit. You'll only come across Ecstasy in developed
countries, where it is normally more expensive than in western
Europe.
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» Opium: Opium is easy to obtain and in fact legal for hill tribes
in the golden triangle. In most treks from Chang Mai, Thailand you'll
come across it. It is most widespread and easy to obtain in Laos. Remember
this is Opium not Heroin, which anyone with any sense would avoid.
Please also consider ethical issues, such as authorities trying
to stop hill farmers growing poppies and encourage them to take up other crops: here you are creating a demand.
» Hallucinogenic: LSD is a drug of yesteryear and it is unlikely you will come across
it, however you may be offered magic mushroom on Indonesian and
Thai Islands. Generally you will buy your mushrooms and have them
made into an omelette. You'll going to have limited knowledge on
how strong the effect will be and several people have died taking
these mushrooms, normally from going on long swims whilst tripping.
In South America there are plants and indeed frogs in the jungle
that give psychotropic effects. Substances likes 'daime' or 'ayahuasca' are not illegal in much of South America. Both are two names for the same hallucinogenic that are used in rituals. The effect is similar to magic mushrooms, or peyote, or even LSD.
Although technically 'safe', if you've had no previous hallucinogenic experiences or not in the right place/mind,
you could be considered a little silly to get into this scene abroad especially where illegal. For legal hallucinogenics there are many specific destinations for those who want to participate with support.
» Cocaine: It's not that common to come across Cocaine in less
developed countries on the travellers circuit, except in Colombia, Brazil and Jamaica.
Coca leaves and tea are widespread and legal in South America,
great for altitude sickness and long treks, but have no real
narcotic strength. Even in Colombia, Jamaica and Rio, charley is
not that easy to come across, with limited travellers using it
and a lot of corrupt policemen selling and busting. It's most
widespread on Colombia's Caribbean coast. Getting involved with
Cocaine in South America, especially Colombia is a risky
business.
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Vice: The Philippines and Thailand have somewhat of
a reputation for sex tourism. Take a walk through certain
areas of any big tourist town and it's easy to see why. However, in the Philippines and many other places
prostitution is illegal. In reality (of course) most will end up touching rather
than just looking. Go-Go bars are much the same as any strip club in the world
(although with more activity available in back private rooms or sofas). Pop into any of these
bars and what you will get is many gorgeous girls (many look and probably are
under 18) sometimes in swimsuits asking for you to buy them a drink (that's how they make
their money - or one of the ways). Girls will give you a lot of attention and
continue asking for more drinks. It's obvious that many guys leave with girls
(where a leaving fee or 'bar-fine' is normally paid) or head to back-rooms. The more popular the bar, the more 40plus Japanese/Australians/Americans
and the more aggressive the girls will be. Don't expect a cheap night out or
a clean conscience. Some KTV (karaoke) bars will operate in the same way, only will be more expensive. Massage parlors that offer a viewing gallery to pick your female massager or provide in hotel massages are likely to offer 'extra-services', but where they exist, it's easy to see what these places are about a mile off.
Whether you are aware of it or not , prostitution is rife in many parts of Asia, Russia, Europe and
Brazil/Central America, with Manila/Angeles, Rio and Bangkok/Pattaya the sex holiday destinations of choice.
Most backpackers in Bangkok for example take in a show in Pat Pong and have offers of prostitution at some stage
(normally from free-lancers hanging out in more up-market and hotel bars), that they shyly turn
away and that's it. And how it should be. Whereas narcotics were discussed in
detail, there's nothing more really to say about this subject, considering its
questionable ethics. It's not common, but you
should also consider, you may end up with a transgendered individual or if you take a girl back to your room, end up with a rape/under-age charge when
the police turn up the next morning with the crying (faking) girl. Equally, Aids/HIV is an issue in all the aforementioned places and so are
other STDs - remember condoms are not 100% foolproof.
Getting
involved with any of the above you cross a line where you are playing with
different rules and have no recourse to the law. Over that line, you are open
to lying, cheating and entrapment. When it comes to drugs, you may get ripped
off when buying, you maybe robbed under the effects or be sold drugs by a
dealer
who heads straight to the police for a tip. All are possible; if you do get
involved be very, very careful (no responsibility taken here),
take drugs in your room, not in public, buy from guesthouse/bar owners never
from the street, check out the scene, know what you are doing, don't carry contraband
on your person and never, never, never carry anything across international boundaries.
All common sense really. It is just backpackers get carried away since it is
so cheap, seems almost legal and they are on holiday to enjoy themselves. If you can't be good at least be careful.
Other tips - but not so good ones!
There are loads of other tips that are spread widely,
floating around guidebooks, the web and travellers conversations.
Listed right are a few typical examples, if only to
spell out that these sort of tips sound okay at home, if not making
you a little unnecessarily apprehensive, but when you get to your destination
of choice, are completely unnecessary, impractical and have you sticking
out like a sore thumb. |
Examples of this slightly paranoid stuff are:
- Carrying all your money under an elastic knee
or wrist support.
- Buying a woven potato or fertilizer bag at a local
market and putting your backpack in it when travelling to disguise it.
- Wearing a small whistle around your neck at all
times so that you can alarm others in case you're being attacked
and perhaps scare away the attacker.
- Taking a bottle of mace or stun gun with you for
protection - you could land yourself in serious trouble for this
one.
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If there is anything else you would
like details on, feel is omitted or would like to add yourself, then
please get in touch. |
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"Travel, in the younger sort, is a part of education; in the elder,
a part of experience"
Francis Bacon
[ back to part one ]
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